Best source for a quart of best-match PAINT

Status
Not open for further replies.
Joined
Mar 29, 2010
Messages
1,203
Location
Minneapolis
After two years of part-time living in Chicago, and commuting to and from Minneapolis, both of the bumpers on my 178,000 mile 2007 335i BMW are shot. I've also been the victim of a hit-and-run to my right passenger door.

I've done full-scale prep and paint in the past. But what didn't go so well then was the local auto parts supplier that I bought the paint from had a tough time matching the color and mica. I had to paint it a couple times before it was taken care of.

This time will be larger-scale, particularly since there is a whole door involved - which will probably require blending across the whole side.

I do not need perfection! But I'm curious if others have had good and/or bad experiences buying paint for projects like this. What worked well? What didn't?
 
Are you familiar with blending techniques and spray outs before painting? As you probably know this and other high translucency colors are very dependent on primer color and psi settings for a good match.
I use Dupont Chromabase (now axalta) and Nason clear, the correct primer shade will always be on the label, BMW can pose another issue with orange peel, for these cars I use a SATA gun for the clear, for Asian and US cars an Iwata because its so atomized and glass smooth, it makes a big difference.

Many colors do best with a white primer, whites, yellows, bright reds and yes some medium blues, for this reason I do spay outs on the little plastic cars sold for a buck apiece. Many times you can tweak the primer shade and the psi to get an exact match before shooting.

Take the gas cap door or mirror to a autobody supply and paint store have them computer match it, that will give you a real good starting point you can tweak easy enough. polish the door first to remove any dirt and before painting sand the surrounding area down with 2000 and water so you don't seal in any surface contamination.

I don't know your skills but if you need more info on blending and how to use blending clears and thinners, primer tweaking, spray outs etc let me know.
One last thing, be very very careful with clears and primers that use a catalyst, they contain isocyanates that will (not may) give you occupational asthma if strict precautions are not followed. Water based is not exempt from Iso's either.

PM me if I can help.
 
Originally Posted By: ragtoplvr
AFAIK BMW uses Glasruit paint. Matching the brand can be a help.

Rod


BMW uses Glasurit (BASF), Spies Hecker (Dupont now Axalta), Standox (Axalta) as OE suppliers. Chroma or Chroma Premier from Axalta could well be OE, Axalta bases match OE BMW very well and Nason (also Axalta) clears are one of the clearest of the clears, its the original Dupont glamor clear formulation.

Never buy paint you need to match online without sending a sample so the computer can match the ageing. I did a red metallic BMW door scratch right in the middle of the door with just a minimum of blending and it matched perfectly in all lighting. The BMW dealer said its red metallic and the whole side must be resprayed for mega $$.
They had egg on their faces when she showed them the repaired door, they couldn't tell where it was repainted.
 
Last edited:

He's never let me down.
crazy.gif
 
Find an auto body supply shop, BMW has the paint code under the hood on a black sticker - usually strut tower. Any competent shop with a PPG/DuPont/BASF/Sikkens system can mix paint and probably get the color close if they use a fan deck/chip sheet to compare the car to any known variants.

Also, keep in mind there is waterborne and solventborne systems - PPG, DuPont and BASF are making a big push on waterborne, PPG's system being close to what's used on the assembly line(PPG supplies or works with many of the automakers). Waterborne does handle differently than solvent and needs a few skills to master. Stick to solventborne unless you have someone in the trade helping you out.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top