I'm burning 1Q of oil every 200 miles!

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Hey Guys,

My 1996 Geo Prizm is now burning 1 Quart of oil every 200 miles. It doesn't seem to smoke too bad, or drip too much, I don't know where the oil is going, but I drive 400 miles a week, so I use 2 quarts of oil per week just keeping that thing on the road.

The car has always used some oil, but when I finally started using my G-Oil stash, the usage picked up a lot. I now ran out of G-Oil, so I am putting 10-30 Peak oil in it for Top-Off. I think I may try a high mileage oil in a thicker grade and possibly some stop leak.

What do you guys think? Is there any quick additive that might work for my Oil Guzzler?

Thanks!

Ben
 
My first thought would be to find out where the oil is going/leaking and address the problem.

If you're not seeing any/many drips on your driveway then the logical conclusion would be that it is getting burned in the cylinders, in which case I would look at the rings and/or valve seals/guides.

However, you say it's not smoking "too bad" - What exactly does that mean? I'm assuming it smokes some, but how much?

You might try running a 10w40 HM oil in it, like Valvoline MaxLife, and seeing if that helps.

Personally, I would think about doing a piston soak or two.
 
Assuming there are no leaks, I'd start by replacing the PCV valve with an OE part. I'd move up to a high mileage conventional oil and see how that goes. Burning that much oil is going to be expensive to use synthetic oil. I wouldn't be surprised if the cat converter dies, if you are in fact burning oil. If you have a leak I'd fix it, I doubt any stop leak product is going to stop a leak that bad. I'd do a compression test, and see if the valve stem seals are good.
 
I'd try 10W-40 MaxLife Blend - if it burns that, you have a problem. Next stop, SuperTech 20W-50 in the Spring.
 
PCV valve might need replacing? But is this the generation of Corollas that are known oil burners?
 
Its burning it if you don't see any drips/leaks. Right now the Cat is keeping the smoke down, once it fills you'll need to remove it and then it'll look like a 2 stroke!

My CR-V is an oil eater, known issue with the oil control rings. Doesn't leak a drop but eats a quart every 400-500 miles Doesn't smoke at all. Just recently set the P0420 for catalyst eff and 02 sensor fault. I know whats next...
 
Originally Posted By: bennybigb
Hey Guys,

My 1996 Geo Prizm is now burning 1 Quart of oil every 200 miles. It doesn't seem to smoke too bad, or drip too much, I don't know where the oil is going, but I drive 400 miles a week, so I use 2 quarts of oil per week just keeping that thing on the road.

The car has always used some oil, but when I finally started using my G-Oil stash, the usage picked up a lot. I now ran out of G-Oil, so I am putting 10-30 Peak oil in it for Top-Off. I think I may try a high mileage oil in a thicker grade and possibly some stop leak.

What do you guys think? Is there any quick additive that might work for my Oil Guzzler?

Thanks!

Ben


It's a known issue on the Toyota 4-cyl. of that era. The motor needs to be opened up and cleaned with additional drain ports drilled into it. Thicker oil only makes the problem worse...
 
Originally Posted By: bigt61
I'd try 10W-40 MaxLife Blend - if it burns that, you have a problem. Next stop, SuperTech 20W-50 in the Spring.


Thicker oils only makes it worse since it's essentially an oil starvation problem from the pin holes (only two I think IIRC) sludging up and not allowing the oil to circulate properly...
 
Wow! Driving a 1996 Geo Prizm 400 miles a week? I'm guessing that this is your winter beater. Check PCV first. Your Cat isn't going to live long burning that much oil. I'd try some 10w40 HM in it.
 
FFS, can people read before they recommend the kneejerk thicker oil!?:

Quote:
Using Google, doing a keyword search -> Corolla, Burning Oil, I discovered there are many articles about this issue. Apparently the design temperature for the pistons in this engine was 120 degrees Celsius and the actual temperatures reached are 160 degrees Celsius, which causes the petroleum oil to sludge up and carbon to accumulate in the piston oil holes that allow oil to flow to the piston rings. This blocks those oil holes, preventing oil from getting to the piston rings and subsequently the piston rings wear very, very quickly, then allowing oil to be able to slip past the piston rings, into the combustion chamber and out the exhaust. Toyota has addressed this issue with an updated piston design with more oil holes in the piston.

To verify if your Corolla has this problem, quickly rev the engine up to 4,000+ rpm, release the accelerator and back several times and then look to see if a blue cloud of smoke has been created from the tailpipe of the car. Blue smoke equals oil burning and a lot of it.

This problem takes time to appear, as the oil holes in the pistons take time to get plugged up with sludge and carbon from petroleum oils. Top quality synthetic oils are far, far more resistant to the degrading affects of hot engine temperatures, (such as sludge and carbon build up).

The part number for the redesigned pistons is Toyota part # 13101-22142.

I was majorly disappointed to learn of this problem and that Toyota isn't stepping up to the plate, recalling these engines and rebuilding them at no charge. It would seem a class action lawsuit may be in order.


Quote:

Using thicker oil will make the problem worse, as the oil flows slower, which means it doesn't transfer heat as well, which means temperatures increase even more, creating even more sludge and carbon to plug up the piston oil holes.

Oil additives can have unplanned and negative affects, (like potentially damaging the catalytic converter), and upset the delicate chemical balance of a motor oil.

I think the only hope of freeing the stuck piston rings and cleaning out the oil holes in the pistons is by using AMSOIL Engine Flush about three times in a row, along with an inexpensive synthetic oil, combined with AMSOIL Power Foam, which can also free stuck/gummed up piston rings.

I sent you a private message with prices and ordering information. Give me a ring when you can and I'll have you order to you in just a few days.
 
although it sounds like it may be to far gone, try 4 oz of berryman b-12 chemtool fuel system cleaner in the oil.

add when engine is cold, then run for 10 or 15 minutes at idle only, change oil and filter.

may have to do several of these....
 
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If you find yourself in the summer months and haven't made the repairs, please call me. I run a campground and would hire you to drive through at sunset to fog the mosquitoes.

The campground used to own a 1966 Galaxie with a half blown 390. Well, the other half blew last year.
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Originally Posted By: FastLane
Buy a new car. That will solve your worn out engine. It's done. Don't waste a penny on it.


Not everyone has bling to drop on a new car (which is one of the world's worst investments). Anyhoo, the car might be getting just south of 40mpg and the engine might be far from worn. It's probably not that worn, just stupidly designed...

People ran burning Saturns over 100'000's of miles...
 
Nick,

Are you aware that his Prizm has the Toyota A engine, and not the later ZZ engine? What you quoted above is discussing the ZZ.

Originally Posted By: Nickdfresh
People ran burning Saturns over 100'000's of miles...

True. Even consuming oil at two-stroke ratios (that's no exaggeration), they'd run a long time if you just keep pouring oil in. It's crazy though when you look at how much their spending on cheap oil though (symptom) vs. addressing the problem.
 
We had some good luck 10 years ago on the Saturn 1.9s with a similar problem using Rotella 5W40 or the old "magic green" German Castrol 0W30. Not sure that these oils are even formulated similarly now. On your rig I'd be more tempted to watch for good sale/rebate deals and just keep it filled up.

2 quarts a week at 2 bucks a quart...4 bucks. 400 miles at 35 mpg at 2 bucks a gallon...22 bucks.
So your oil cost is still running < 20% of your fuel cost.

Looks like you're in Michigan, a non-inspection state so no worry about a dead cat, if your conscience bothers you when the codes start setting you can put on a fresh one for 80 bucks.
 
1 quart per 200 miles = 32 ounces
200 miles @ 35 MPG = 5.72 gallons/732 ounces

Anyone want to figure out the two-stroke mix ratio he's using? Bet you'll be surprised!
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