Will these rotors be ok after some hard braking?

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Ontario, Canada
Parked car for just a bit over a year due to family matters.
Renewal of license plate and emission test requirement is coming due in 11 days.
Full tank of gas + Sta-Bil Fuel Stabilizer, battery disconnected before storage.

We put back full insurance on the vehicle and was hoping to at least get the required testing done so we can easily renew license plate online right now instead of going through more tests in the future to put the car back on the road.

As we have not moved the vehicle over this period of time, I will get the battery charged back up, but when I took a look at the rotors, I am a bit worried whether the car will move or brake properly.

Our hope is to at least get it in a fairly drive able state to get to the emission testing facility which is around 4 km one way. If no huge issues arise, we will run through the tank of gas and the put fresh ones in and possibly park it till the summer time.

Do you think if we do a few hard stop + if I have to, I will take apart the caliper/hardware and clean up the ears/sliders to them moving easier. The rotors will clean up to a point where they will not rub excessively with brake pads and generate extreme heat?

I kind of want to delay putting new rotors/brake pads on until we have decided which car in the household we will get rid of.

Any opinion is welcome!

Front
20170208_204455.jpg


Rear
20170208_204512.jpg
 
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That's too rusty. Time for new rotors or getting them resurfaced. Sometimes the price is so close for new ones that you might as well get the,

New pads too.
 
I wouldn't drive it with those rotors, they don't look good at all. I just bought a pair of front rotors on-line (Parts Avatar.ca) for my '03 Buick. $36 each plus shipping. Brake pads aren't expensive either. Lots of how to videos on-line.
 
If the rotors are that bad, I bet the pads aren't floating any more, and I have to wonder about the calipers too.

It baffles me why some feel the need to ask for specific car repair advice and not give the year, make/model of the vehicle.
 
Originally Posted By: HangFire
If the rotors are that bad, I bet the pads aren't floating any more, and I have to wonder about the calipers too.

It baffles me why some feel the need to ask for specific car repair advice and not give the year, make/model of the vehicle.


2010 Subaru Forester with 30k km.
I didn't think the make/model actually affects the opinion of whether we can temporarily use the car to pass emission test that's 4km away from house.
 
Well as the saying goes, if it's not broken, don't fix it. Take it easy around the block a few times. Mine have never been that bad, but I've had the car sit for a few days and I see lots of rust spots on the rotor. I drive it around a bit and apply the brakes and it all disappears. So go easy and try applying the brakes a few times and see if it cleans up the rust. If you don't have any braking issues, no need to replace pads/rotors. If you do, then replace them.
 
Originally Posted By: bvance554
Take it for a spin and send us new pics.

Yes, follow up pics are needed!

But that's going to Sound absolutely horrible the first Time you apply the brakes!
 
I'm willing to bet that the pads are stuck to the rotors and it may not want to move. They might clean up with a few hard stops but they will never be as good as they were with that rust dust embedded in the pads.
 
Take 'em off (or leave them on) and hit them with a high speed brass brush wheel.

Or just hit the bejezus out of the brakes a few times without engaging ABS.
 
Test them out first and if they work OK then just drive a bit applying them easy.
You will be fine after a few times as the surface rust will go bye bye.
 
They may clean up some after a few decent stops, but i highly doubt that the pad will be making full contact with the rotors. The inner face is usually worse. Youll probably get vibration from them, and the initial bite will not be very good. They may clean up enough to pass inspection, but from a safety standpoint, Id probably replace them. You don't want to find out at 75 mph that you're brakes are shot.
 
I've driven worse and I wouldn't loose any sleep driving it to get the emissions checked. However... be aware that you'll have extremely reduced braking action on a rusty rotor. Test drive slowly around the neighborhood and get a feel for it before you go too far or too fast. Then you can decide if you're keeping it or selling it. Likely they will at least need to be turned because they'll probably pulse badly or perhaps replaced. No need to lay out that money yet if you may sell the car. Just be careful and give yourself plenty of room to stop.
 
As long as the pads aren't stuck to the rotors, I don't think you'll have a problem. I would certainly disassemble them and lube the pad ears and slide pins, though. Maybe hit the rotors with some sandpaper while you're in there.
 
In my opinion there are 2 ifs:
1) If the car will only be tested and then parked again and not used regularly, then these brake rotors will be fine to get to the emission testing facility and back and for some occasional trips around town.

2)If the plan is to put this vehicle back into full, daily use, a full brake jobs would be highly recommended. I've seen brake rotors like this and the pads never made full contact after seating for so long. There was always a portion of the rotor that still had rust, where the pad should make contact.
 
Take it out and brake a few times. Normally that type of rust will clean up. If you have plenty of pad left and the brakes are working freely I would not worry about it. If it worries you too much do a brake job. Great Saturday project and not hard to do.
 
What harm can you do to try to use the brakes first and see if they work before springing for new rotors and pads? If the brakes do not work at all when you move the car; DO NOT TAKE ON THE ROAD but if they work somewhat, then you go and try to burn off the rust. If that does not give you better brakes back, then you put the new rotors and pads on it.
 
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