Shipping a Brake Line...

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...that is 80% the length of my Jeep?

Short version: Is this possible? Shipping is $15. Part # 52128074AB

Long version: A common rust belt WJ issue is the brake line that runs from the master cylinder distribution block to the rear axle. Mine is starting to look bad. I've tried 1 of my 3 "local" dealers which only yielded an unfamiliar part number, an ~$80 price tag and it was non returnable.

I did a bit of Googling and found an online Mopar place that has the line for $35 plus $220 for shipping. I went to the next result, which also had it at $35, but $15 shipping. Would the thing make it here without getting destroyed?

I'm getting ready to say the heck with it and make my own/ repair the old one after buying this thing.
http://www.mastercool.com/product/71475/
 
It will just ship in a long skinny box probably, they care more about weight when shipping than anything.

Make it out of NiCop and be done with it if you have the tools and skills
 
I don't think I have the skills to make the entire line look like factory, but repairing the old should be simple. It'll just be 4 feet or so with a few bends.
 
After you replace the Brake-Line, I would,

1) Spray the Brake-Line (entire length) with Fluid Film, this will stop any current rusting.
2) Coat the Brake-Line with a heavy grease (I use Never-Seize), this will stop any future rusting.

My Brake-Lines still look brand new.
 
I ordered a pre-bent fuel line for a Subaru from a dealer, one that runs all the way from the back of the car to the front. It arrived in a huge box that could hold a big-screen TV. Shipping from Japan to the dealer was included in the price of $80.
 
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I've found most factory brake lines would be hard/impossible to replace with pre-bent units without lots of extra disassembly... Maybe its just been my luck.

Anyways, I've done a couple longer runs now with NiCp bulk lines and have found it to be quite nice to work with. Bends easily by hand, takes a flare eaily (even in awkward positions) and best of all is that is doesn't rust!
 
Originally Posted By: mk378
I ordered a pre-bent fuel line for a Subaru from a dealer, one that runs all the way from the back of the car to the front. It arrived in a huge box that could hold a big-screen TV. Shipping from Japan to the dealer was included in the price of $80.


This is reassuring. After reading your comment, I saw a photo that gave me the impression it came in a box about like a TV set as you mentioned. I'll make some phone calls tomorrow and hopefully get it ordered.
 
NiCopp is easy to bend and easy to flare, no need for the expensive tool, one like this will do a good job.

https://www.amazon.com/OTC-4503-Stinger-...74CN4476JFA9R02

Remove the old line as carefully as possible, cutting the ends off right at the fitting makes it much easier, remove the fitting with a 6pt socket.
Lay it out and bend the NiCopp by hand the same as the old one add 1.5" to each end for the pieces you cut off. Put the fittings on and flare the ends and your done.
You can use a piece of pipe (plastic is fine)to to bend the NiCopp over, the trick to nice flares is clean cuts and to deburr the end of the line with a deburring tool and dip the end of the line in brake fluid before cutting and flaring. If you need help just ask, its an easy job and you cant beat the NiCopp, its better than OE.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Inside-Outside-B...738.m2548.l4275

https://www.amazon.com/RIDGID-32975-Quar...s=tubing+cutter
 
Typically they roll them and ship in a fairly large, square and narrow box. You have to straighten them out usually. There are tools that can help with a neat job of it; Eastwood sells some.

I usually make my own. It's fast and easy, fittings are cheap, and you know what you are getting quality-wise. Get good quality flaring tools, they will last your lifetime.

You probably have paid enough of a premium for your pre-made line to pay for a good flaring tool and some line and fittings already. Decide whether you want to stop and start saving money now, or rinse and repeat for the next 40 years.
 
Originally Posted By: Trav
NiCopp is easy to bend and easy to flare, no need for the expensive tool, one like this will do a good job.

https://www.amazon.com/OTC-4503-Stinger-...74CN4476JFA9R02

Remove the old line as carefully as possible, cutting the ends off right at the fitting makes it much easier, remove the fitting with a 6pt socket.
Lay it out and bend the NiCopp by hand the same as the old one add 1.5" to each end for the pieces you cut off. Put the fittings on and flare the ends and your done.
You can use a piece of pipe (plastic is fine)to to bend the NiCopp over, the trick to nice flares is clean cuts and to deburr the end of the line with a deburring tool and dip the end of the line in brake fluid before cutting and flaring. If you need help just ask, its an easy job and you cant beat the NiCopp, its better than OE.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Inside-Outside-B...738.m2548.l4275

https://www.amazon.com/RIDGID-32975-Quar...s=tubing+cutter





Trav, how do you keep brake fluid from leaking out when the line is disconnected from the distribution block?

My only guess would be to find the thread pitch and buy a pipe plug at the hardware store.
 
I got some OE brake lines from Ford that were all the way from firewall to rear brakes. I ordered it from the dealer and there was no charge for shipping. $125 for the two lines. A great deal IMHO.
 
For the most part I make my own (freight to Bolivia would be more than the car) but I have seen them coiled so you can unroll them.

But easy to make from steel lines, bought by the foot, meter, etc. I bought 8 meters of line for my Renault and a pile of fittings to make all the lines. I have a made in USA flare tool from the 50's that works great with steel lines.

I had done the same with the Corvair. Because I did not have originals as templates, I made patterns out of stiff wire, then made the tubing to match.
 
I pulled the trigger and ordered the line last night when I found it for $35 shipped.

Got an email saying my order was cancelled this morning because it was too big to ship. Boo
 
Originally Posted By: dlundblad
I pulled the trigger and ordered the line last night when I found it for $35 shipped.

Got an email saying my order was cancelled this morning because it was too big to ship. Boo


I bought fuel lines for my BMW from an online dealer in Nebraska. I emailed them before I bought them, and asked if there would be any issues in shipping such things. The guy (whom I know pretty well) replied that it would be fine.

Well when the dealership tried to forward them on to me, Fedex Ground refused the package due to size constraints. Even though they had made it all the way from Germany they couldn't get them to Wisconsin. I even told the dealer where he could cut them to make them fit in a smaller box, but he didn't want to do that and ended up shipping them in an almost laughably enormous box via Fedex Freight. I have no idea what that cost but they ate the difference between what had been quoted and what the actual cost was.
 
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