w116 300sd water pump

[Gito]

Own a 1979 300sd and will be replacing the water pump and fan clutch.

I already removed the old water pump and fan clutch
I observed blue caulking along with the old paper gasket still on the water pump seat.

Is to necessary to use caulking or sealer?

The water pump from the dealer came with a paper gasket and bolts.

Also not sure which of the paper gasket goes on what.
Does the lettering on the gasket face the engine or does it face the fan clutch?

What is the best way to clean the seat or the joint between the engine and the water pump?
There isn't much residue from the paper gasket and caulking on the seat but I would like to leave that surface super clean.

Any advice is greatly appreciated

 

[FlyNavyP3]

On paper gaskets I personally like to use Permatex aviation form a gasket. Comes in a brush top small bottle and works fantastic. Much more difficult to over apply than silicone. I've never had a thermostat, water pump, timing cover, etc leak when applying the aviation form a gasket to both surfaces or to both sides of the paper gasket during installation.

You could also use a silicone based sealer but be careful not to over apply the silicone, a thin thin coating is all that's required.

 

[Johnny2Bad]

Originally Posted By: FlyNavyP3
On paper gaskets I personally like to use Permatex aviation form a gasket. Comes in a brush top small bottle and works fantastic. Much more difficult to over apply than silicone. I've never had a thermostat, water pump, timing cover, etc leak when applying the aviation form a gasket to both surfaces or to both sides of the paper gasket during installation.

You could also use a silicone based sealer but be careful not to over apply the silicone, a thin thin coating is all that's required.


Same wrt the Permatex Aviation Form-A-Gasket. I have also used 3M Weatherstrip Adhesive instead to good effect if you need the gasket to stick to the flange for a proper installation. Silicone gasketing material is OK but also cautioning that if you don't know how to properly apply it, it can run the risk of breaking off and clogging an oil or coolant passage. Let the silicone set up for a few minutes until it creates a "skin" before installing the part.

As for gaskets in-the-field, the cardboard from a box of beer or Coke works perfectly.

If the supplied gasket can go on two ways, and it's a cardboard gasket, I wouldn't worry about it. But if it makes you feel better and you want to establish a "system" for future wrenching, writing facing you seems to work fine.

What does your Haynes manual for your 300D say, and if you don't have one, why not? Can't afford the ten bucks?

Here's the correct repair documentation for your car. These guys are the most expensive so it pays to look elsewhere, but they list everything and actually have most of the available manuals.
https://books4cars.com/listings.php?findmake=Mercedes&model=300SD &year=1979&type=Shop

 

[eljefino]

The blue caulk is probably permatex blue RTV silicone. It is good in that a gasket surface that has previously been scraped, has rust, or is otherwise imperfect will be "fixed" with said product.

Don't let it get in the bolt holes though as you can hydro-lock the bolts running them down.

 

[JHZR2]

What does the DB FSM state for the OM617 water pump?

Be REALLY careful with the water pump mounting bolts. They will shear off very easily. Use lots of penetrating oil way in advance...

 

[Gito]

No mention of any type of sealer
http://handbook.w116.org/Engine/617/20-210.pdf

Also trying to figure out how I can properly torque the bolts back on.
I don't want to over tighten or leave them to loose where the bolts will fly off

 

[Gito]

Originally Posted By: Johnny2Bad
Originally Posted By: FlyNavyP3
On paper gaskets I personally like to use Permatex aviation form a gasket. Comes in a brush top small bottle and works fantastic. Much more difficult to over apply than silicone. I've never had a thermostat, water pump, timing cover, etc leak when applying the aviation form a gasket to both surfaces or to both sides of the paper gasket during installation.

You could also use a silicone based sealer but be careful not to over apply the silicone, a thin thin coating is all that's required.


Same wrt the Permatex Aviation Form-A-Gasket. I have also used 3M Weatherstrip Adhesive instead to good effect if you need the gasket to stick to the flange for a proper installation. Silicone gasketing material is OK but also cautioning that if you don't know how to properly apply it, it can run the risk of breaking off and clogging an oil or coolant passage. Let the silicone set up for a few minutes until it creates a "skin" before installing the part.

As for gaskets in-the-field, the cardboard from a box of beer or Coke works perfectly.

If the supplied gasket can go on two ways, and it's a cardboard gasket, I wouldn't worry about it. But if it makes you feel better and you want to establish a "system" for future wrenching, writing facing you seems to work fine.

What does your Haynes manual for your 300D say, and if you don't have one, why not? Can't afford the ten bucks?

Here's the correct repair documentation for your car. These guys are the most expensive so it pays to look elsewhere, but they list everything and actually have most of the available manuals.
https://books4cars.com/listings.php?findmake=Mercedes&model=300SD &year=1979&type=Shop


Good site, thanks