Mobil1 5W-30 EP, 5496mi, 2007 Prius Touring, 84817
- Thread starter DuckRyder
- Start date
- Status
having just recently acquired a 2004, is fuel dilution an issue with these?
Looks good; I'll probably be running my AFE to 8 or 9K.
Is this a short tripper?
Looks good; I'll probably be running my AFE to 8 or 9K.
Is this a short tripper?
Seems like a short run on EP. However the M1 fan boys will praise the performance. Not really that impressed with this run or numbers to be honest. I have to say that I've seen similar reports front Super Tech, Valvoline, Mobil Super 5k on similar runs on cars that actually run the engine all the time. That being said nice looking report and engine.
The 2012 Camry with 60k miles on it had lower wear metals after 10k miles with TGMO 0w20. The Iron reading was 5 ppm.
https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/3954381/2012_Toyota_Camry_UOA#Post3954381
https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/3954381/2012_Toyota_Camry_UOA#Post3954381
Still in grade, but not very far from 20 weight numbers (9.02@ 100C.), don't think this oil would make the recommended 15K, nor even the 10K I run it in my xB (similar engine).
The local dealer sells 5w30 TGMO synblend for $2.95/quart. The engine prob only needs four quarts so $12. I'm sure that oil can easily handle 5500 miles with excellent results.
I would not categorize it as a short tripper really. Depending on how you go it is around 8 miles on a state route to get to town, a trip into Atlanta proper is ~100 miles round trip almost all interstate.
As much as the ICE starts and stops I'm not sure it makes much difference how it is used. They have a reputation for being easy on oil...
I usually buy EP when it is the same price as regular M1 at Walmart.
We know TBN isn't linear, but 4 seems low for a ~5500 mile run when the Civic usually turns in a 3 or so at nearly 10,000.
This car has dealer service records at very near specified intervals (5000mi) since day one before I got it and I've been thinking about selling it which is my main objection to running it 10,000. I'm already off track with the filter change interval and use of Synthetic oil though, so I may go for it at the 90,000 change.
As much as the ICE starts and stops I'm not sure it makes much difference how it is used. They have a reputation for being easy on oil...
I usually buy EP when it is the same price as regular M1 at Walmart.
We know TBN isn't linear, but 4 seems low for a ~5500 mile run when the Civic usually turns in a 3 or so at nearly 10,000.
This car has dealer service records at very near specified intervals (5000mi) since day one before I got it and I've been thinking about selling it which is my main objection to running it 10,000. I'm already off track with the filter change interval and use of Synthetic oil though, so I may go for it at the 90,000 change.
So when i picked up my parents used 2004, it had been dealer serviced yearly since day 1; Dealer used bulk 10w-30 and 5w-30 mineral oils. My father put < 5K / year on it, probably no long trips. Trips to the diner, Lowes, doctors etc.
I didn't bother looking down the fill hole; I drove it back from Western VA and when i went to do an oil change noticed a fair amount of varnish in the fill hole.
I think short tripping doesn't do this engine a bit of good, especially when it appears the top part of the engine is only warm to the touch even after an extended trip. I think sticking to a synthetic oil is a good idea; I will be doing that also, although the nature of the use of the car will change drastically since I drive 27 m one way to work.
I didn't bother looking down the fill hole; I drove it back from Western VA and when i went to do an oil change noticed a fair amount of varnish in the fill hole.
I think short tripping doesn't do this engine a bit of good, especially when it appears the top part of the engine is only warm to the touch even after an extended trip. I think sticking to a synthetic oil is a good idea; I will be doing that also, although the nature of the use of the car will change drastically since I drive 27 m one way to work.
Toyota's official recommendation is 5/30 conventional oil, likely because that is what Toyota sells other than 0/20syn.
I think we determined that the first load of oil was probably Mobil Special that oil was installed by the Toyota dealer, but they said it was "Mobil 1 Conventional" or some such nonsense (see the other threads).
When you buy EP at the "rollback" price it cost about $5.00QT in a 5QT jug, so the ~3.5QTs it takes to change cost about $18.00 which I'm totally fine with particularly if it keeps me from setting foot in a Toyota dealer.
I haven't even looked down the fill hole on mine...
I think we determined that the first load of oil was probably Mobil Special that oil was installed by the Toyota dealer, but they said it was "Mobil 1 Conventional" or some such nonsense (see the other threads).
When you buy EP at the "rollback" price it cost about $5.00QT in a 5QT jug, so the ~3.5QTs it takes to change cost about $18.00 which I'm totally fine with particularly if it keeps me from setting foot in a Toyota dealer.
I haven't even looked down the fill hole on mine...
While it sure doesn't look like M1 EP could possibly be a 15K oil based upon TBN depletion in this application, this UOA looks okay.
I'd stay with 5-6K drains and go with a cheaper synthetic like PPPP, M1 AFE or Magnetic if you can still find it.
What oil had you used for your 5/26/15 drain?
It's obviously thicker and gave much lower insolubles.
I'd stay with 5-6K drains and go with a cheaper synthetic like PPPP, M1 AFE or Magnetic if you can still find it.
What oil had you used for your 5/26/15 drain?
It's obviously thicker and gave much lower insolubles.
- Status
Similar threads
