PUP 5w30, 4,855, '16 Subaru Outback 2.5

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Been using PUP 5w30 since new and oem filter. Oil changes @ 1500, 3000, 5000, 10000, 15000


Blackstone remarks:
Subaru might call for 0W/20 oil, but we don't see any issues as a result of having 5W/30 in place
instead. This oil is working well for your FB25 engine, as you can see by the amount of metal that's present.
Universal averages show typical wear after about 6,000 miles of oil use, and these numbers compare well.
Copper is a bit elevated, but that's probably just residual wear-in material that's still washing out. It's often
the last metal to wash out completely. It may improve, but if not, this reading is fine. The TBN was strong at
4.5 since 1.0 is low - lots of active additive left.


Lab: Blackstone
Miles on oil: 4,855
Miles on engine: 14,782
Sample date: 1/4/2017
Report date: 1/11/2017
Makeup oil added: 0

Aluminum 2
Chromium 0
Iron 5
Copper 7
Lead 0
Tin 0
Molybdenum 46
Nickel 0
Manganese 0
Silver 0
Titanium 2
Potassium 2
Boron 53
Silicon 18
Sodium 2
Calcium 1949
Magnesium 13
Phosphorous 558
Zinc 689
Barium 0

SUS Viscosity @ 210* F = 58.9
cSt Viscosity @ 100* C = 9.91
Flashpoint in * F = 445

Fuel % = Antifreeze % = 0.0
Water % = 0.0
Insolubles % = TR

TBN = 4.5
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: Chewie
Why did you decide to go with 5W-30 even while you are still in warranty?


After alot of research, and checking bearing, piston to cylinder, etc clearances from the 2L turbo and the 3.6L 6cyl are all within same specs of my 2.5L and they use 5w30. Oil pumps are slightly different.

I believe CAFE is the reason they spec 0w20.

Owners manual also reads:
"NOTE
Engine oil viscosity (thickness) affects
fuel economy. Oils of lower viscosity
provide better fuel economy. However,
in hot weather, oil of higher viscosity is
required to properly lubricate the engine."

Also, Mobil 1 website says a 0w-30 can also be used. PUP is 'lighter' at 100f and 212f.
And I rarely see temp below of 0f or below.

Summertime I readily have my oil temp over 230f, 237f being the highest. Mountain and gravel road driving 4+ miles depending on route.
Total of 70+ miles a day mostly highway.
I see no harm using 5w30, but potentially better protection.

Plus it give me that warm fuzzy feel.
smile.gif
 
Originally Posted By: Chewie
Why did you decide to go with 5W-30 even while you are still in warranty?

A better question is why dump at sub 5k mi interval? Why not go with ANY other API cert oil?
 
Originally Posted By: Dyusik
Originally Posted By: Chewie
Why did you decide to go with 5W-30 even while you are still in warranty?

A better question is why dump at sub 5k mi interval? Why not go with ANY other API cert oil?


If you really must know, changing early on a new engine is a habit I have. Won't hurt, could help.

I Like the UOAs I've seen for PUP, may change my mind in the future. This is BITOG.
smile.gif
 
Originally Posted By: Dyusik
Originally Posted By: Chewie
Why did you decide to go with 5W-30 even while you are still in warranty?

A better question is why dump at sub 5k mi interval? Why not go with ANY other API cert oil?


PUP lays down less deposits, and cleans better, per mile. So at 5k intervals, even less degradation & deposits occur with using the superior base oil & boron compounds in the PUP compared to any API cheapo oil.
It is true one could get 8k intervals out of PUP here, yet the cumulative, per mile, deposits effects are less with PUP no matter how long you use it.
Deposits are linear with miles, and better base oils & cleaning agents mean less deposits per mile.
 
Solid report and you know your air filter is working well on the gravel. I think you're safe to go longer w the quality of the PUP, or even PP.
 
I like to keep cars beyond their usability, but cheapo Dino at 5k intervals should take it to we'll beyond 300k ( if nothing else takes the car). That's all. Not arguing, it's your coin.
 
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