Alternator brushes sticking

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SHOZ

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At 145k miles the alternator on my Accent is starting to need a rev to start charging when first started for the day.

Brush/regulators are anywhere from $35 to $125, all the same item. This is used on quite a few Asian alternators.

I can get a Auto 7 rebuilt (OE) from RockAuto for $104 shipped.
 
I'd be tempted to try Advance (if you have one nearby), looks like a reman Carquest is around $115 if you use TRT41 ($40 off $100+)-my experience with reman alternators is lifetime warranty combined with local free exchange is always a good idea (they don't last as long as OEM).
 
Well I ordered a rebuilt from RockAuto for $104 shipped. Could not see paying $75 for just the brushes and regulator. Probably should have asked a local rebuilder for just the brushes?
 
Originally Posted By: SHOZ
Well I ordered a rebuilt from RockAuto for $104 shipped. Could not see paying $75 for just the brushes and regulator. Probably should have asked a local rebuilder for just the brushes?


Can't you just buy brushes?
 
The Auto 7 should be a reboxed Mando, if I'm not mistaken. Mando is a longtime Hyundai supplier.

Since Hyundai's parts suppliers typically licensed out IP from Mitsubishi, it shouldn't be too hard to find brushes and replace them.
 
Mando is a Korean manufacturer. Their alternators are used on Bobcats and Mercruiser marine engines and many others. They work until they don't and then should be used for core. A local rebuilder I worked with refused to work on Mando and sold me a rebuilt Delco and put the Mando in his scrap pile. He said the Mando was a PIA to take apart and fix. Not worth his time.
 
Originally Posted By: zzyzzx
Originally Posted By: SHOZ
Well I ordered a rebuilt from RockAuto for $104 shipped. Could not see paying $75 for just the brushes and regulator. Probably should have asked a local rebuilder for just the brushes?


Can't you just buy brushes?


He could... but at 145k, the slip-rings are pretty well used up also. I've re-brushed high-mileage alternators before (Nippondenso, old-school Chrysler) and the next weakest link is when a slip ring wears through. The Nippondenso I recall got a re-brush at maybe 150k miles, and then one slip-ring had a hole by 175k. And I doubt that a Mando has slip-rings as thick as a Nippondenso...
 
Originally Posted By: 440Magnum
Originally Posted By: zzyzzx
Originally Posted By: SHOZ
Well I ordered a rebuilt from RockAuto for $104 shipped. Could not see paying $75 for just the brushes and regulator. Probably should have asked a local rebuilder for just the brushes?


Can't you just buy brushes?


He could... but at 145k, the slip-rings are pretty well used up also. I've re-brushed high-mileage alternators before (Nippondenso, old-school Chrysler) and the next weakest link is when a slip ring wears through. The Nippondenso I recall got a re-brush at maybe 150k miles, and then one slip-ring had a hole by 175k. And I doubt that a Mando has slip-rings as thick as a Nippondenso...



^^ +1
Nothing worse than getting new brushes and a new regulator just to have the slip rings wear through 6 months later. Once the brushes wear out, time for a full (quality) rebuild or new unit.
 
The last alternator I tried to rebuild was off the '97 Taurus. Taking the back cover off destroyed it as all the diodes were soldered together through the cover. Last one I replaced brushes on would be a Ford Torino of 70's vintage.
 
Originally Posted By: Donald
Mando is a Korean manufacturer. Their alternators are used on Bobcats and Mercruiser marine engines and many others. They work until they don't and then should be used for core. A local rebuilder I worked with refused to work on Mando and sold me a rebuilt Delco and put the Mando in his scrap pile. He said the Mando was a PIA to take apart and fix. Not worth his time.


I know the exact alternator your rebuilder was talking about. Parts are hard to find for this alternator (used on the Bobcat) and the brushes are actually on the back side of the rear bearing. I have no idea why Bobcat used this alternator except that they get a huge markup on the replacement Mando alternator when they screw over sell one to their customers. As he stated, the best fix for these is to put on a $35 rebuilt Delco alternator for the simple fact it's easy to replace and any parts store stocks one on hand.
 
Yah, I used to buy a brush/regulator for the 528e 's 90 amp Bosch alternator for 45$ oem or clones for 10$. Most alts in the E 28 would require a blip in the idle speed to 1200 RPM to start charging. When I retired my first 528e @ 350 k it had the same alt. Changing the brush on the Bosch could be done with it in the car too. As long as the alt is keeping the battery charged, I wouldn't worry.
 
Isn't the whole idea behind smooth copper slip ring and soft carbon brushes is to avoid wearing the down the ring but rather having sacrificial brushes?
 
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I'm finding it hard to believe any reman you'd get from a parts store has had any attention given to the slip rings, other than a go/no go check.

Anyway, this guy's vid shows what bad slip rings look like yeow!

FWIW, my 21 year old 240k Acura Vigor's slip rings looked fine.
 
Quote:
FWIW, my 21 year old 240k Acura Vigor's slip rings looked fine.
That is what I would expect on a quality OEM alternator at that miles. The only thing which would be worn would be the brushes. If you are capable of swapping the alternator by yourself, it makes sense to try to replace the brushes first but if a shop is doing it, then you don't want to take such a chance.
 
Fascinating video, Thank you spackard. If the alternator in the Rat ever quits, I will look into rebuilding it. I have several used Bosch alts and starters for the 528e. The Bosch is regulated to 14.1 V It often needs a throttle blip to get it to charge. Very common. Just as common is the fact that best Bosch replacement is a used one. Is the low output, and the longevity related? They last. This is old news, Bosch quality is suspect these days.
 
I got the alternator today from RA. It's got the Hyundai logo cast into it as well as Valeo who must be the manufacturer. Tempted to pull the brush cover off....
 
Originally Posted By: spackard
I'm finding it hard to believe any reman you'd get from a parts store has had any attention given to the slip rings, other than a go/no go check.


I was thinking the same thing.
 
Originally Posted By: Vikas
Isn't the whole idea behind smooth copper slip ring and soft carbon brushes is to avoid wearing the down the ring but rather having sacrificial brushes?


That's how it works... except the brushes have almost a centimeter of wear material to go through versus less than a millimeter of copper for the slip-rings. End result: they wear out pretty close to each other.
 
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