Oil recommendation, 2005 Honda CRV 2.4 110k miles.

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Just picked up a new to me-2005 Honda CRV, AWD, 2.4 AT. 110k miles. Don't know the oil change history, but it looks runs good. Have changed all the fluids, tune up, brakes, etc...oil cap calls for 5W20. Due to the higher miles, was thinking a 5W30 HM oil, or keep with the 5W20? Doesn't burn or leak at this time. Thoughts...
 
Mobil 1 5W30 HM would work well. Those engines are known to have some consumption issues due to stuck rings. Look at Autozone and the like for Clearance high mileage oil.
 
I'd stick with 5W20 with your climate, 5W30 summer if you WANT to. Make sure to do 3 drop and fills on the transmission fluid, with a drive between each change . Very easy to do. ATF DW1 from a Honda/Acura dealer. It supersedes the ATF-Z1 fluid that your car came with originally. Ask for a deal on a case of fluid. I've routinely paid less than $6 per quart.
 
Seals that old might be beginning to get brittle. Extra seal conditioners in High Mileage oil is worth it just in case and can't hurt.

Any full synthetic high mileage oil is what i'd do. 5w20
Fram Ultra filter scrubs out more smaller particles too.
 
I would not run a HM oil in if its not leaking or burning any, I would run a 5w30 like PP or PU. Be aware these oils do a good cleaning job in the piston ring area, it may begin using a little oil between changes for a couple of OCI but it will subside to normal once its cleaned up.
This engine is not a xw20 engine it is an engine that can run on xw20 for CAFE reasons, it is sold in other parts of the world that specs 0w40 A3/B4 (both VTEC and iVTEC versions) oddly enough with no lighter alternative so 5w30 is not too thick by any means.

Quote:

Castrol empfiehlt für Ihre(n) Honda (EU) CR-V II, RD4/RD5/RD6/RD7 (2001-2007)
Castrol EDGE 0W-40 A3/B4

Motor K24A1
 
Stick with 5w20, or even 0w20 if you want (Honda has approved 0w20 for this engine). The oil consumption issues were mainly on the earlier (2003) and later (2008-2010) K24 engines, yours should be clear but no engine is immune to abuse. You mention it does not burn or leak oil so personally I would go with Pennzoil Platinum 0w20 and a Fram Ultra oil filter. Pennzoil Platinum is great at keeping engines clean. Also you may run the Fram Ultra for 2 oil change intervals, this has Hondas approval and the Fram Ultra is more than capable of this.

Also, my previous car (a 2006 Accord with the K24a8) ran great on PP 0w20 and a Fram Ultra even with 140K miles on the clock. Current Accord with the K24z3 loves this combo too.
 
And what benefit are there with the 0w20 over a 5w30 other than a minuscule MPG increase and Honda lining its pockets with CAFE credits?
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Originally Posted By: Trav
And what benefit are there with the 0w20 over a 5w30 other than a minuscule MPG increase and Honda lining its pockets with CAFE credits?
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then would it not be the same "miniscule" change in protection?

Just a week or so ago, someone shared an industry video about 20w vs 30w, and included representations of engines that actually performed worse on 20w oil than the 30w they were originally spec'd for.

Personally, if you've got the VTEC (VVT), I'd stay in manufacturer specified grade.
 
Just observe the dipstick level on your current run to see if it's using. Jmo I would not go to 0w-20. You could try a thick 5w-20 like Castrol Magnatec. .02.
 
Originally Posted By: Trav
I would not run a HM oil in if its not leaking or burning any, I would run a 5w30 like PP or PU. Be aware these oils do a good cleaning job in the piston ring area, it may begin using a little oil between changes for a couple of OCI but it will subside to normal once its cleaned up.
This engine is not a xw20 engine it is an engine that can run on xw20 for CAFE reasons, it is sold in other parts of the world that specs 0w40 A3/B4 (both VTEC and iVTEC versions) oddly enough with no lighter alternative so 5w30 is not too thick by any means.

Quote:

Castrol empfiehlt für Ihre(n) Honda (EU) CR-V II, RD4/RD5/RD6/RD7 (2001-2007)
Castrol EDGE 0W-40 A3/B4

Motor K24A1




I'm with you on the oil recommendation but you or someone else needs to enlighten me how a synthetic oil can clean deposits in the piston ring area. By that logic the magical properties of Pennzoil wouldn't leave any deposits in the first place.
 
Whatever is on sale... 5w-20... conventional... cheap (of course I mean an actual oil that meets common specs, not just universal brown fluid)
 
Originally Posted By: RichardS

then would it not be the same "miniscule" change in protection?

Just a week or so ago, someone shared an industry video about 20w vs 30w, and included representations of engines that actually performed worse on 20w oil than the 30w they were originally spec'd for.

Personally, if you've got the VTEC (VVT), I'd stay in manufacturer specified grade.



In Germany Honda recommends 0w40 in the UK 0w30 so it is 100% not a xw20 engineered engine, I have seen (and taken apart,posted pictures) many IVTEC V6 engines beat the oil mercilessly in a few thousand miles and develop sludge, deposits, cylinder wear on xw20 but had fewer issues on xw30 and 0w40 so it seems there is a more protection for the engine.

VVT and VCM operation is unaffected by using xw30 or xw40 it is spec for these engines.

Originally Posted By: ndfergy
I'm with you on the oil recommendation but you or someone else needs to enlighten me how a synthetic oil can clean deposits in the piston ring area. By that logic the magical properties of Pennzoil wouldn't leave any deposits in the first place.


These oils and other like Mobil 1 have strong cleaning add packs that really works. I have posted pictures of pistons that were very heavily varnished with deposits coming clean with only PU and no OTC additives in the crankcase. Oils are not the same as they were even 10 years ago and they are only getting better as far as the cleaning aspect goes.
 
TRAV- the thin oil guys are hard to argue with, they refuse to believe its all pushed by CAFE... I guess all those European manufacturers have been wrong all these years...
whistle.gif
 
These oils and other like Mobil 1 have strong cleaning add packs that really works. I have posted pictures of pistons that were very heavily varnished with deposits coming clean with only PU and no OTC additives in the crankcase. Oils are not the same as they were even 10 years ago and they are only getting better as far as the cleaning aspect goes.

OK, you have pictoral evidence so I'll take your word for it. The Bottom line is there's a myth that synthetic oils inherently are better than conventionals at cleaning up sludge. That's just not true. What does Pennzoil have in their DI pkg that is better or different from others.
 
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Originally Posted By: racin4ds
TRAV- the thin oil guys are hard to argue with, they refuse to believe its all pushed by CAFE... I guess all those European manufacturers have been wrong all these years...
whistle.gif



These credits are worth more than the cost of potential warranty repairs, the manufacturers roll the dice and so far have been winning, like they say follow the money. The last concern of the manufacturers is how well the engine will hold up once out of warranty.

The specious argument that "the engineers know whats best for your car" goes right out the window when you consider the engineers have little to do with it other than tell the sales and marketing dept that the engine will run okay on this oil and the engines should get through the warranty period.
Notice in countries where the engine might get run a little harder than grocery getter duty and there are no credit incentives they don't like those odds and quickly change the "spec" to a higher viscosity. This fact alone should raise questions about whats going on, on the face of it it makes no sense at all.
If xw20 is good enough to protect the engine here and saves fuel why isn't it good enough there where gas cost 3-4 times as much and the xw20 is readily available.

Quote:
Moreover, electric car credits, like all credits, are bankable and tradable. The automakers buy or sell credits to one another, reporting the transactions (but not the prices of credits) to regulators. Tesla, Nissan, Honda, and Toyota build plenty of efficient cars, generating extra credits they can sell. Chrysler, Mercedes-Benz, and Ferrari have been buyers.
This has been a boon to electric-car makers, notably Tesla, which makes more money selling regulatory credits — $622 million, between 2011 and 2015 — than it does by selling cars. (Tesla’s revenues from regulatory credits include credits from Zero Emission Vehicle regulations set in California and adopted by nine other states.) Tesla realized about $13,000 in federal and state credit revenue for each car it sold in 2014 and about $6,600 for each car it sold in 2015.
 
Thanks for all the replies...I've got 5W20 QSUD in there now, has about 1k on the oil, still looks pretty clean. I'll run this for another 4k, then switch out to a syn, either Valvo or PP and run it 7,5k, do a UOA and post it. I also picked up some Valvo Max-Life, may try that for 7,5k or so...
 
Originally Posted By: Trav
And what benefit are there with the 0w20 over a 5w30 other than a minuscule MPG increase and Honda lining its pockets with CAFE credits?
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Honda and Ford have been using Xw20 grade oils for over ten years now...how many engine failures are we seeing? CAFE may have something to do with the thinner oils most manufacturers are spec'ing but they still seem to be doing a fine job protecting the engine against wear for the useful life of the vehicle. Also, for the short trip crowd (which most of America fits into) has no need for a thicker oil as most of the driving is below operating temp. This is the case for me as my drive to work is around five miles one way and most errands are within 5-7 miles.

Someone posted a map about a year ago showing average driving distance that was country specific. Those over seas had much longer commutes, Americans in contrast drive much shorter distances overall. This may very well play a role in the spec'ing of thinner grades in the US. Oil is far thicker than it needs to be before reaching operating temperature, and there is a very small difference in CST between a 20 and 30 grade oil at operating temperature. So, knowing this, why would you use a thicker oil that will be even MORE thick than it needs to be during the entire warm up process?
 
So in other words no benefit at all just the usual Honda and Ford have been using it it for years argument.
You keep using it in your engine and I will keep using it in my oil can for door hinges.
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Originally Posted By: Trav
So in other words no benefit at all just the usual Honda and Ford have been using it it for years argument.
You keep using it in your engine and I will keep using it in my oil can for door hinges.
lol.gif



No worries Trav, I can agree to disagree.
 
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