Coolant recommendation for fresh 454 with Al heads

Status
Not open for further replies.
In my search I think I've come up with more questions than answers.

Most of my questions revolve around the coolant formula. Some use silicate and phosphate others are silicate or phosphate free or both. Then there's the nitrate and borated coolants. Is any one better than the next or is it just a different way of arriving at the same solution.

Which formula is best for a mixed metal system comprised of brass, iron, copper and aluminum?
 
A molybdate inhibitor package is best for a cooling system with a diverse mix of metals.

Plenty of coolants out there that are great for aluminum and iron, but do nothing for brass and copper, if you have any in your system.
 
dexcool and all the other long life antifreezes have the same stuff in them. i had to show the guy at advance auto this. now advance has stopped putting the ingredences on the jug. there really was no problem with dex cool. it was the [censored] gaskets that GM was using that was the real problem. i've seen cars and trucks that the intake gaskets failed at 5000 miles and some that failed at 100,000 miles. junk gaskets were that real problem here, but it was cheaper fo GM to place the blame on the coolant.
 
Last edited:
Pretty much any coolant changed on an appropriate schedule will give you a lifetime (of the engine) of good protection. As mentioned, maybe stay away from Dex-Cool and it's many clones which should be easy given your aversion to it.

Since you mentioned road tripping I would suggest choosing one based on availability. The best coolant (by whatever measure) is no good if you can't find on the road after a hose or water pump failure.
 
The only "go to" product I have used for the last 10 years. Peak Final Charge ELC. For everything requiring coolant I own. Car, pickup, gator, ag tractors, semi trucks, all of them. 1 million mile or 8 yr / 20,000 hr coolant life with no supplemental additives or extenders. Confirmed in conversation with Peak tech support that this product more than adequate for any gas or diesel vehicle in this country. Availability is nation wide at any major truck stop and parts outlet. Not sure if Wally anywhere stocks it. I prefer the 50/50 mix for ease.

http://www.peakhd.com/product-lines/final-charge/about/
 
Originally Posted By: FlyNavyP3

What are the advantages or disadvantages of using a silicate or silicate free coolant or those that are silicate and phosphate free vs one that's just silicate free but uses phosphates?

The old school IAT (inorganic) coolants used silicates and phosphates as additives which quickly and effectively coated the metal surfaces to protect them, but only lasted about 2 years.

The newer OAT (organic) coolants use carbon based compounds to protect the metal, they last longer (5 years or more) but act slower. Because they act slower, they are not very good if you have air pockets in the system, typically older designs.

The hybrid HOAT coolants use both additives, with the IAT stuff at lower levels. They should protect quick and last a decent amount of time because of the OAT adds. They should do OK with air pockets in older systems too. I like Zerex G-05 HOAT, with low silicates and phosphates plus organics. This would be my pick, a little of everything, but not too much of anything, it should last 5 years.

With the HOAT systems, the Japanese don't like silicates for some water pump issues. So they use silicate free HOAT.

The Euro HOAT don't seem to have any problem with silicates and their water pumps, so they leave the Silicate in. However they know some people top up with hard tap water containing Mg and Ca ions, they reacts with the Phosphate to form a scale. So the Euro manufacturers prefer a Phosphate free HOAT.

Since you don't have a Japanese water pump and it you don't plan to top up with hard tap water, I don't see either as being a concern to you.

With an older design, I would use a HOAT like G-05.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top