Dodge 4.7L sludge in oil fill tube ways to correct

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Hello, I just bought a 2005 Ram Quad cab 4x4 with a 4.7L engine. After reading about the engine and a poor design the engine collects moisture in the oil fill tube. My truck has Dodges hide the problem fix in the fill tube. However, I have noticed it is starting to get some of the sludge in the fill tube. The engine has 60,000 miles on it. Here are my questions and ideas.

1. Has anyone come up with a fix that works?

2. Here are some ideas I have.
a. Switching to Valvoline synthetic oil
b. Wrapping the fill tube which is plastic with a heat tape to keep the temp up and help burn off moisture.
c. Drilling a hole in the oil fill cap and then fixing a plastic tube which will allow the moisture to escape the fill tube if the synthetic does not fix the problems.

Any fixes that some one has used on this engine that worked would be appreciated. Any ideas on the proposed fixes I have suggested.

Thank You,

Art Thompson
 
Just keep an eye on your oil level and condition. If it looks like blotches of yellow clay are forming under the fill cap change the oil. Due to it being a design flaw synthetic will only lessen the severity.
 
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I would drill a small hole in the cap with the smallest drill in your drill box for the moisture to escape. I had the same issue during the winter months.
 
How difficult is it to remove the tube to clean or replace it?

You'll get a buildup like Hemi mentioned in the wintertime especially. May be worth seeing what happens in the summer?

I personally don't see synthetic fixing this.
 
I have a 2004 Dakota with the 4.7. I am running NAPA (Valvoline Synthetic) and running synthetic will not solve the problem. To keep the fill tube condensation issue at bay I simply remove the baffle, wipe out the tube. wipe off the baffle and put everything back every few weeks in the winter. I also make sure my PCV system is working correctly. No big deal.

Andrew S.
 
Why do you think synthetic oil will fix it?

I'd have thought you'll just have wet synthetic oil instead of wet mineral oil.

Suggestions:

Mk1 fix

Remove the cap and the dipstick when you stop, and replace them with something that'll give you better ventilation without allowing dust into the engine. I would think a cloth fixed with elastic might do it for the filler, maybe with a loose plastic cup over the top.

Perhaps similar, or a scooter fuel filter, for the dipstick hole.

MkII fix

Fit a small computer fan into that cup over the filler tube, and run it for 30 minutes or so on a timer, extracting, after you stop.

Mk III fix

Fit a desiccant breather in the dipstick hole.

You'd have to reinstate the original stuff before you start the car.
 
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Just use OEM PCV valve, and wipe the filler tube to clean out the oil snot and not worry about it.

So many of these 4.7's in WJ's go over 250K easily.

Just change the PCV valve and the two breathers on the CCV.
 
Originally Posted By: dlundblad
How difficult is it to remove the tube to clean or replace it?


My thoughts exactly (except I would find a way to clean it, not replace).
 
Originally Posted By: DemoFly
Tap a very small barbed fitting into the side and tee a vacuum line to it.

I'm pretty sure this arrangement is stock already.




Originally Posted By: dlundblad
How difficult is it to remove the tube to clean or replace it?

You'll get a buildup like Hemi mentioned in the wintertime especially. May be worth seeing what happens in the summer?

I personally don't see synthetic fixing this.


Three bolts.


OP- I would just remove it and clean it out manually if it bothers you that much.
 
I wouldn't worry about it.

My '00 4.7 has 180k on it. Every winter it gets this since new. It'll burn off once it gets warm out.
 
A Trasko or TP bypass oil filter would trap the moisture. We had a MB E320 in a warmer climate and it formed the white goo under the cap when doing short trips without the engine warming up. Any venting of the system fouls up the mixture controls and makes the ECU and o2 sensors compensate with more calling for gas to correct the excess air. Which in turn goes into the cat converters. Everything should be tight after the MAF air volume sensor. As far as my small DIY experience knows.
 
Synthetic oil, short intervals for awhile while it cleans up. Replace filter every 3k or less while cleaning up.



Originally Posted By: Lubener
I would drill a small hole in the cap with the smallest drill in your drill box for the moisture to escape. I had the same issue during the winter months.


Hmmm....doesn't this also pull moisture IN as the engine cools and the air inside contracts?
 
If the slidge is bad enough I'd be tempted to cap off the PCV and breather lines and let rising crankcase pressure blast the goop out of the filler tube before replacing the PCV, insulating and tee'ing the dipstick back to manifold vacuum.
 
My 3.7 Jeep does it too, they changed the PCV design in 07 for the 3.7 (4.7 too I bet) to something that puts it near the firewall and seems to really help the issue if not eliminate it. Although if you left it as is, it'll be fine too.
 
Originally Posted By: HoosierJeeper
My 3.7 Jeep does it too, they changed the PCV design in 07 for the 3.7 (4.7 too I bet) to something that puts it near the firewall and seems to really help the issue if not eliminate it. Although if you left it as is, it'll be fine too.


That's correct. My '04 Dakota 4.7 has the original design with the PCV valve in the (large) oil fill tube on the passenger side front of that valve cover while the 4.7 in my 2008 Commander has the PCV valve in the rear of the driver's side valve cover with a normal-sized oil filler in the front of the driver's side valve cover. That engine does not seem to have any problems with condensation in the oil filler.

Andrew S.
 
no way i would drill it.pcv can put it under vacuum and draw in dirt.its cosmetic anyway.my g vans always do that in cold weather.anything with a long fill tube away from heat/up in the cold air will do this.
i wipe it out if its real bad before adding top up oil.
Originally Posted By: Lubener
I would drill a small hole in the cap with the smallest drill in your drill box for the moisture to escape. I had the same issue during the winter months.
 
Synthetic will not help, by my experience.

I've owned two 4.7's – Durango and Ram. Durango ran QSGB, Ram ran Mobil 1, both had the same sludge in the oil fill/cap problem. Never had any engine issues, though.

The Mopar 4.7 is underpowered and not fuel efficiency, but mine were utterly reliable out to over 150K.

I wouldn't worry about it.
 
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