At 4:12, person uses TB tension to break loose rear cam gear bolt. Is this an ok technique? Seems like the front cam gear bolt could come loose first?
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=_c_a-ECaWSU
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=_c_a-ECaWSU
Toyota V6 Rear Cam Gear Removal
- Thread starter artbuc
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Front cam bolt wont come loose since you are going counter clockwise on the rear cam thus actually torquing the bolt on the front cam tighter. I don't see why you couldn't do this technique other than stretching the belt if lets say you were just changing the water pump, cam seals with a previously new belt.
I've done allot of these and always used a cam gear holder tool.
https://www.amazon.com/Schley-Products-SCH96800-Camshaft-Holding/dp/B000TPZII0
I've done allot of these and always used a cam gear holder tool.
https://www.amazon.com/Schley-Products-SCH96800-Camshaft-Holding/dp/B000TPZII0
Turning in opposite directions, so the front bolt will get tighter if anything. Since he has the gear holder tool I don't know why he is doing it that way. He notes that the rear pulley does not need to be removed unless you're replacing the rear cam seal.
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Originally Posted By: mk378
Turning in opposite directions, so the front bolt will get tighter if anything. Since he has the gear holder tool I don't know why he is doing it that way. He notes that the rear pulley does not need to be removed unless you're replacing the rear cam seal.
Duh, one of my biggest brain farts in a long time!
Turning in opposite directions, so the front bolt will get tighter if anything. Since he has the gear holder tool I don't know why he is doing it that way. He notes that the rear pulley does not need to be removed unless you're replacing the rear cam seal.
Duh, one of my biggest brain farts in a long time!
I didn't like the way he went after the cam seals with those tools without protecting the shaft first, you can either drill 2 small holes with an angle drill in the metal part of the seal and use 2 sheet metal screws to pull/wiggle the seal out or cut a piece of plastic water jug to slip in between the shaft and seal so the tool doesn't touch the shaft.
Messing around with metal tools on the shaft is bad practice, always inspect the shaft surface for nicks or wear groove where the seal contacts the shaft and use a repair sleeve if necessary. Do not use oil around the outside of the seal, this is where they leak many times and using oil just makes it leak easier.
The reason for this is the different expansion rates of the aluminum head and the metal seal shell, the seal expands less at operating temperature than the head causing the seal to become slightly loose in the bore.
Use a non drying sealer like Permatex high tack or Hylomar on the outside of the seal and make sure the bore is clean and dry with a little brake cleaner on a rag, this will prevent seal walking and leaks without making future removal difficult like RTV or shellac, it also acts as a short term lube to make installation easier, use engine oil on the rubber seal lip.
A little extra caution and proper installation of the seals goes a long way in making the repair long lasting and leak free
Use a torque wrench and cam holing tool on the cam and a pulley holding tool for the crank bolt which my also require an angle gauge for the crank check the FSM.
Messing around with metal tools on the shaft is bad practice, always inspect the shaft surface for nicks or wear groove where the seal contacts the shaft and use a repair sleeve if necessary. Do not use oil around the outside of the seal, this is where they leak many times and using oil just makes it leak easier.
The reason for this is the different expansion rates of the aluminum head and the metal seal shell, the seal expands less at operating temperature than the head causing the seal to become slightly loose in the bore.
Use a non drying sealer like Permatex high tack or Hylomar on the outside of the seal and make sure the bore is clean and dry with a little brake cleaner on a rag, this will prevent seal walking and leaks without making future removal difficult like RTV or shellac, it also acts as a short term lube to make installation easier, use engine oil on the rubber seal lip.
A little extra caution and proper installation of the seals goes a long way in making the repair long lasting and leak free
Use a torque wrench and cam holing tool on the cam and a pulley holding tool for the crank bolt which my also require an angle gauge for the crank check the FSM.
Put oil on the lip of the seal where it touches the shaft. You do not want that to start dry. Also your installer tool needs to be rather exactly sized to touch only the very outside edge of the seal. If you press at all on the flat part between the OD and ID, it will bend and that makes them leak.
His video made it look way too easy. That car could not have been in the rust belt, no bolts were seized.
On my 98 Sienna the middle timing cover had one bolt siezed in it. I never changed the seals on mine.
Trav always has good tips on doing things such as seal removal.
On my 98 Sienna the middle timing cover had one bolt siezed in it. I never changed the seals on mine.
Trav always has good tips on doing things such as seal removal.
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