Timing Belt Change?

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artbuc

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Re: 99 Toyota Avalon V6

Current TB (OEM) has just 50k miles but is almost 9 years old. Everything I read says change belt NOW! I only drive 4-5k miles per year but sometimes travel a couple hours away and do not want to get stranded. Do you folks agree I should replace a 9 year old belt? Thanks.
 
Yes I would, Toyotas are amazing cars I respect that brand fondly although I am loyal to Honda.

Also I would do the water pump and any idlers and really try to keep this car, maybe even do the coolant and thermostat (get the one from the dealer only to be safe).

Have it polished and waxed and enjoy saving a monthly car payment all these small Japanese vehicles are worth a mint used.

In my area as I get more time I will work on more older Japanese cars with a local trade school I went to to resell them to maybe have a Snap On graduation gift so the young Grads don't have to struggle to buy tools when they are starting their Apprenticeships.

Which reminds me I am thinking of redoing my entire carpet in my Fit it is pretty beaten up.
 
You should but only because the oil seals probably need attention from time which can affect the belt. I wouldn't hurry though.
 
You posted a pic of that cam oil seal installer and remover, that implies they are leaking? If you're doing that job I'd not be inclined to put the old timing belt back on but maybe that's just me. If you do wish to keep the old one don't forget to mark it first so you can get it installed properly. It's easy to get that belt on but be one tooth off.
 
Originally Posted By: Trav
Check and see if its an interference engine or not, if not I wouldn't put too much urgency in doing it.

Both original and VVTi versions of the 1MZ-FE are non-interference.
Quote:
http://yourcarangel.com/2014/07/interference-engines-complete-list/
Oh that's good, though some places mistakenly list the 1MZ VVTi as interference, this site is correct.
The 3MZ is interference due to increased valve lift.
 
I bought a 1999 4 runner last year with 255K miles on it. Timing belt was OE. It had a million cracks in it and looked like it could go at any moment..could have been that way for years.

FWIW you should be able to pull the inspection cover and take a peek at it..
 
Even if it's a non-interference engine, a snapped belt will strand you. And with Murphy's Law, it won't happen on your driveway, but on a cold, rainy night far from home. Only solace is the valves won't kiss the pistons, like with a Honda.
 
Last edited:
Not all Hondas had interference engines. The A20A engines were NOT interference, not matter what anyone ever said to the contrary. (Found in late 80's Accords and Preludes)
 
Originally Posted By: kschachn
You posted a pic of that cam oil seal installer and remover, that implies they are leaking? If you're doing that job I'd not be inclined to put the old timing belt back on but maybe that's just me. If you do wish to keep the old one don't forget to mark it first so you can get it installed properly. It's easy to get that belt on but be one tooth off.


No, they are not leaking but I was planning on replacing them this time around. Car has 135k miles.
 
Is there an access point that will allow you to look at the belt without too much trouble? That won't tell you everything, but you'll at least be able to see if it's all cracked and dried out.
 
I would not try to replace any seals unless they are leaking. It's pretty easy to mess up the installation and cause a problem that you didn't have before.
 
A couple years ago I was driving my wife's Kia Sportage on the parkway doing about 70 mph, thinking to myself, this old car runs good. About 2 miles down the road the car quit running. Turned out to be the timing belt snapped. It took 4 hours and two tow's, to get it to my mechanic's garage. He was trying to butter me up for an engine replacement bill, when I decided to look online to see if it was an interference motor, and it was not. Even tho he felt it was, He put a new belt on and fired it up. Ran the same as before the old one snapped.One more thing, it cost the same to replace the tb if it didn't break, as it does to replace one that has broken FYI.,,
 
Originally Posted By: BigCahuna
A couple years ago I was driving my wife's Kia Sportage on the parkway doing about 70 mph, thinking to myself, this old car runs good. About 2 miles down the road the car quit running. Turned out to be the timing belt snapped. It took 4 hours and two tow's, to get it to my mechanic's garage. He was trying to butter me up for an engine replacement bill, when I decided to look online to see if it was an interference motor, and it was not. Even tho he felt it was, He put a new belt on and fired it up. Ran the same as before the old one snapped. One more thing, it cost the same to replace the tb if it didn't break, as it does to replace one that has broken FYI.,,


Except for two tow calls, inconvenience, and what could have been a dangerous situation on the freeway.
 
I've never seen a T-belt just fail on it's own. Leaking oil seals, bad idlers, bad tensioners or leaking water pumps are what takes them out. If none of those items are badly worn or leaking, I wouldn't be in a hurry to have the T-belt replaced. I would have any/all of the rotating elements it touches thoroughly inspected and replaced if necessary. All out oil seal replacement on an 18yr/old daily driver? Only if necessary. I wouldn't disturb them if they're holding.
 
You said you did not want to be stranded. Toyota engineers established the change interval for a reason.

Change.
 
What other supporting parts are on that replacement schedule and what are their failure rates?

In my 4 Runner the water pump gets changed with the belt, and they are known to leak/fail around 100k.

So I would be more concerned about the water pump than the belt and I would change both.
 
Originally Posted By: JTK
I've never seen a T-belt just fail on it's own. Leaking oil seals, bad idlers, bad tensioners or leaking water pumps are what takes them out. If none of those items are badly worn or leaking, I wouldn't be in a hurry to have the T-belt replaced. I would have any/all of the rotating elements it touches thoroughly inspected and replaced if necessary. All out oil seal replacement on an 18yr/old daily driver? Only if necessary. I wouldn't disturb them if they're holding.


WP and idler pulleys were replaced when I did TB 50k/9 yrs ago. All factory parts. I reused hydraulic tensioner as it was not losing fluid.
 
I just ordered the parts for my Accent for TB change due up soon. I'm at 145k and change them every 50k-60k miles, tensioner and idler too.

I'm still on the OE water pump. I'll change that at the next TB change around 200k miles, unless it STB sooner..
 
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