2016 Honda CR-V engine oil and filter options?

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Hi Y'all
I have a CRV with 3500 miles on it; I am exploring engine oil and its filter options; The manual states for 0w-20 oil. What oil,/filter would you choose and how often would you change it. I live in suburban area of Atlanta; also Imam leaning towards Castrol 0-20 synthetic and Mobile 1 XL filter. Help. Also how do you fill mixing synthetic engine oil just with a regular oil filter. Thank for your time and your replies.
 
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Castrol 0w20 and M1 filter is a great combo that will serve you well.

Nothing wrong with mixing synthetic oil and a regular filter.

For cars like yours where the computer determines your OCI, I like to use the cheapest synthetic on sale. Right now, Napa has PP on sale, and there's an additional $2/qt rebate on top of that.
 
Many people get 300,000 miles on their Hondas with quick lube oil and filters.
 
I'd vote for Mobil1 0w-20 AFE and a Honda or Fram Ultra filter. Mobil1 seems like a better choice to me because it's readily available, reasonably priced and uses the low-calcium/high magnesium formula that seems to be helpful in preventing low speed pre ignition in direct-injected engines. This is the combo I use in my 2015 CRV.

One word of caution, though: my CRV dilutes engine oil with fuel like crazy even with mostly highway driving. So before you decide to rely solely on the oil life monitor you may want to get a used oil analysis performed by a lab that uses gas chromotography. My CRV suffers from >5% dilution and oil nearly diluted out of grade by the 3,500 mile mark, so I'm on a 4 month/4,000 mile OCI. Maybe Honda changed things in 2016, but they aren't exactly in a communicative mood on this subject...
 
Pennzoil Ultra or Platinum 0W-20 has my vote and a FU or OEM filter would be best. I use regular OEM filters on my Toyota with synthetic oil and no problems as of yet.
 
Thank You Guys;
I may be overthinking this but I like to keep things clean, organized, and predictable as long as I can.

@slacktide, when you say PP, what do you mean by that please?

@danh, I am all for a quality oil and filter option because I tend to keep the cars for a long time and in tip top shape as long as I can. I have noticed the oil right now in there is Mobile1; also, i noticed every 700 miles the oil life drops by 10%; right now it sits at 50% of oil life; my goal is to have a quality oil/filter combo so I can make OCI every 7.5k miles if possible. I have read about carbon build up in Honda DI engines that is possibly related the oil/fuel combustion/diluted you refer. So I was wondering how to run that test you are pointing to and where please;

Again, I am very thankful to all replies inhere.
 
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Mobil 1 0w20 with a fram ultra oil filter would be my choice...How often does your manual say to change your oil?? Whatever the max is would be fine with Mobil 1 its great oil.
 
Originally Posted By: miden851
Thank You Guys;
I may be overthinking this but I like to keep things clean, organized, and predictable as long as I can.

@slacktide, when you say PP, what do you mean by that please?

@danh, I am all for a quality oil and filter option because I tend to keep the cars for a long time and in tip top shape as long as I can. I have noticed the oil right now in there is Mobile1; also, i noticed every 700 miles the oil life drops by 10%; right now it sits at 50% of oil life; my goal is to have a quality oil/filter combo so I can make OCI every 7.5k miles if possible. I have read about carbon build up in Honda DI engines that is possibly related the oil/fuel combustion/diluted you refer. So I was wondering how to run that test you are pointing to and where please;

Again, I am very thankful to all replies inhere.

PP= Pennzoil Platinum
 
Originally Posted By: miden851
Thank You Guys;
I may be overthinking this but I like to keep things clean, organized, and predictable as long as I can.

@slacker, when you say PP, what do you mean by that please?

@danh, I am all for a quality oil and filter option because I tend to keep the cars for a long time and in tip top shape as long as I can. I have noticed the oil right now in there is Mobile1; also, i noticed every 700 miles the oil life drops by 10%; right now it sits at 50% of oil life; my goal is to have a quality oil/filter combo so I can make OCI every 7.5k miles if possible. I have read about caribon build up in Honda DI engines that is possibly related the oil/fuel combustion/diluted you refer. So I was wondering how to run that test you are pointing to and where please;

Again, I am very thankful to all replies inhere.


The fuel dilution issue in DI engines doesn't really contribute to carbon buildup on intake valves; fuel dilution reduces the viscosity and lubricity of engine oil, which can compromise engine life.

There are lots of places that will perform a used oil analysis (Polaris/Horizon is one). They will provide a 3 ounce or so sample bottle that you fill during an oil change and mail to the lab. Blackstone is a popular lab, but its fuel dilution testing is based on an indirect estimate rather than actual measurement so perhaps should be avoided for this purpose.

My driving style ticks the oil life monitor down about 10% every 1,100 miles. With my CRV's bad behavior a 10,000 mile plus OCI would be a really bad idea.
 
@oildude; the manual does not state changing interval of the engine oil strangely but it does everything else such as brake fluid, transmission, spark plugs etc. so yes it is confusing and it refers that depends on the driving habits.

I guess that automatic OC reminder on the odometer is the only thing that does it for you and of course all aftermarket oil manufacturers.

And yes the dilership decal on the windshield says to see them at a 5000 miles point.
 
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Any dealer that wants to do oil changes on a new car going by mileage instead of trusting the OLM is looking out for themselves, not you. Use known quality products and go by the OLM.

Personally my '15 Accord Sport seems to 'like' Mobil1 AFE so I'm going to continue using it. OLM light (15%) has come on pretty much right around 6k miles of mixed driving each time. Just about any filter can go that distance on a new engine, even a cheap Purolator Classic or Fram OCOD but I've been using better 99% efficient filters for feel-goods.
 
Originally Posted By: miden851
Thank You Guys;
I may be overthinking this but I like to keep things clean, organized, and predictable as long as I can.

@slacktide, when you say PP, what do you mean by that please?

@danh, I am all for a quality oil and filter option because I tend to keep the cars for a long time and in tip top shape as long as I can. I have noticed the oil right now in there is Mobile1; also, i noticed every 700 miles the oil life drops by 10%; right now it sits at 50% of oil life; my goal is to have a quality oil/filter combo so I can make OCI every 7.5k miles if possible. I have read about carbon build up in Honda DI engines that is possibly related the oil/fuel combustion/diluted you refer. So I was wondering how to run that test you are pointing to and where please;

Again, I am very thankful to all replies inhere.


Keep in mind (and sorry if I am stating the obvious) that your OLM does not know anything directly about your oil. Its just tracking your driving habits and modeling it against the plan in the computer. So you will not notice any changes in the behavior of the OLM by changing brands or types of oil, but it will make a difference in the life of the engine. I have been using Amsoil 0w20 and an Amsoil filter in my sons 2015 Honda Accord V6 with good results: he gets about 33-34 mpg on the highway. I also use M1 filters and either Pennz Ultra Platinum or M1 EP 5w30 on other vehicles.
 
Originally Posted By: Danh
I'd vote for Mobil1 0w-20 AFE and a Honda or Fram Ultra filter. Mobil1 seems like a better choice to me because it's readily available, reasonably priced and uses the low-calcium/high magnesium formula that seems to be helpful in preventing low speed pre ignition in direct-injected engines. This is the combo I use in my 2015 CRV.

One word of caution, though: my CRV dilutes engine oil with fuel like crazy even with mostly highway driving. So before you decide to rely solely on the oil life monitor you may want to get a used oil analysis performed by a lab that uses gas chromotography. My CRV suffers from >5% dilution and oil nearly diluted out of grade by the 3,500 mile mark, so I'm on a 4 month/4,000 mile OCI. Maybe Honda changed things in 2016, but they aren't exactly in a communicative mood on this subject...



If you are still under warranty, I would think the used oil analysis report would be enough to encourage warranty work. Have you tried that yet ?
 
Pennzoil Platinum 0w20 with a Fram Ultra XG7317 makes my K24 happy, this is what I would recommend.
 
I'm using Mobil 1 0w20 AFE with a Fram Ultra XG7317 for my Pilot. Check you owners manual, as mine says to go by MM or if the MM does not tell you to change in a year, go ahead and change. You won't go wrong with any of the recommendations that were given. It comes down to what you like.
 
Thanks for all your valid inputs good people!

Yes I'll stick with Mobile 1 0w-20 along with Mobile 1 XL filter and I'll follow my OLC/MM statistic when comes the oil change; that means every about 7K and change the oil and filter as it tells me to do now with our style of driving (3.6K with 50% oil life left)

On the other note; why my Honda dealer would use synthetic oil along with their basic oil filter that is made by Honeywell or Wix isn't a synthetic oil filter a better option for the car anyway?
 
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Are you going to change the filter every time (a service), or every other (b service)?

This is what we did:

2014 odyssey and 2015 accord hybrid.

The odyssey goes about 5k per the OLM. The engine does not start-stop or anything. Sometimes we disable VCM but not always. This vehicle I change the filter every other time and save a few dollars by running PP 0w-20 and a FU. Ill run an M1 filter interchangably.

The accord goes 12-15k oci per the OLM. Im not comfortable with a > 25k mile oil filter, 15k and 24 months is about my max. The engine start-stops on the highway and under load, so this one gets M1 EP because its an application where i think PAO does help. I run either an OE filter or a Wix platinum, because while their efficiency isnt as high, they should flow better during these high load operations where the power is dropped amd then ramped quickly.

OP, your CRV should be more like our odyssey. Id get a quality filter, change it every other time to save mess, time and money, and run a regular tier 0w-20 like PP, QSUD, synpower, castrol, etc. the only caveat is that if not changing the filter during the A service, id run the same brand and type of oil both tines since there will be a lot held up in the filter.

Goid luck!
 
You can get Mobil 1 oil and Fram Ultras at Walmart.

0-20 Mobil 1 EP when it is on sale same price as regular and a Fram Ultra run for 2 changes.

Simple as that.
 
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