Is there a better Dex-Cool ?

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I have two Fords a 14 and 16, both 2.0L ecoboosts. Ford orange is Dec-Cool, Is one brand better than others? Would like to stock up if a 2017 rebate pops up.
 
Don't know if there is a "better" Dexcool, but for my GM vehicles, I just get the AC Delco brand. It's $15 / gallon (concentrate) online or $17 out the door from the local Chevy dealer which is no more than $2 more than other Dexcool brands, which is minimal after 5years or 150K miles. If it was me, I would go w Ford oem for your vehicles
 
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Originally Posted By: barkingspider
which is no more than $2 more than other Dexcool brands


http://sds.fmpco.com/images/fmp_msds/10-101.pdf

ACDelco from the Chevy dealer is manufactured by Prestone. Same thing that's in the Prestone Dex-Cool jug at Walmart for $10.38/gallon.

On an "out-the-door" comparision ($10 vs. $17), that makes the dealer price 70% higher...
 
Thanks, my Ford dealer wants $17 for the 50/50. Had a feeling the formulas for Dex-Cool would be pretty close. So first rebate on Prestone or Zerex I'll pick some up. Happy New Year
 
I think Ford wants too much, since i'm not in a rush, think i'll wait for a deal. Have a great year.
 
At work we have BASF Glysantin G30, which is like a dexcool coolant. In any event, it's listed for my car which has Paraflu in it. It seems OAT takes a long time before it starts protecting new parts and a complete change of coolant is necessary whenever you change a part.

Dexcool isn't very good at protecting cast iron, and mine has a cast iron block. That's why I try to avoid draining the coolant and have resorted to doing partial changes yearly by draining and filling the pressurised header tank. I do it twice per year actually, but after winter I add pure demineralised water, and before winter I add pure dexcool.

http://www.glysantin.de/en/products/g30.html
 
When I did my coolant, the Prestone at Walmart around $14, about a buck less than autozone. At $10.38 now, I would jump on it, that's a really good price.

$17 for Ford 50/50 is just too much
 
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Originally Posted By: Ramblejam
Originally Posted By: barkingspider
which is no more than $2 more than other Dexcool brands


http://sds.fmpco.com/images/fmp_msds/10-101.pdf

ACDelco from the Chevy dealer is manufactured by Prestone. Same thing that's in the Prestone Dex-Cool jug at Walmart for $10.38/gallon.

On an "out-the-door" comparision ($10 vs. $17), that makes the dealer price 70% higher...



Interesting. I thought Texaco used to make Dex-Cool. Thanks for the info.
 
Originally Posted By: George7941
Originally Posted By: Jetronic
. Dexcool isn't very good at protecting cast iron, and mine has a cast iron block.
http://www.glysantin.de/en/products/g30.html

My ten year old truck has a cast iron block and head and have not had any issues with Dexcool.


You won't get any as long as the cooling system stays full. but drain the fluid an corrosion starts immediately, and keeps corroding for months after refilling
 
You won't get any as long as the cooling system stays full. but drain the fluid an corrosion starts immediately, and keeps corroding for months after refilling [/quote]

Doubtful..
 
Originally Posted By: George7941
Originally Posted By: Jetronic
. Dexcool isn't very good at protecting cast iron, and mine has a cast iron block.
http://www.glysantin.de/en/products/g30.html

My ten year old truck has a cast iron block and head and have not had any issues with Dexcool.


Dexcool is more than fine. The issue lies on the gasket material used in some of the older GM engines (3.1, 3.4, 3.8s) and if anything is mixed besides dexcool. Other than that it is a perfectly fine antifreeze and has been used in many vehicles for many years without issue

I switched both the Malibu and Equinox with Peak Global and have been happy. Considering my Equinox is one of the engines notorious for headgasket and LIM leaks I figured after they were both replaced that I would do a complete flush. So far so good.
 
Originally Posted By: Lubener

You won't get any as long as the cooling system stays full. but drain the fluid an corrosion starts immediately, and keeps corroding for months after refilling


Doubtful.. [/quote]

https://www.motor.com/magazine-summary/c...-or-orange-or/# 2 excerpts from the article, but it's interesting enough to read all of it.

Quote:
The inhibitor 2-EHA works well in hard water and is more effective than sebacate at lower pH levels (when the coolant moves from the alkaline end toward the acid side), particularly for cast iron. Well, GM has a number of cast-iron engines. When there's a low coolant level in the coolant passages, the exposed cast iron rusts. Apparently, that rust is washed away later by flowing coolant, and is deposited in the heat exchangers. It eventually produces the rust powder problems that have been so widely observed (see Motor's August 2002 issue at www.motor.com). Why does the coolant level in these engines drop? The original radiator cap design was blamed for some of the issue, but there probably are a number of causes, including owner neglect and normal seepage. However, the rust powder issue is not a problem that was observed with the previously used conventional American coolant.


Quote:
If you're replacing aluminum parts on an engine, such as a water pump or even a new cylinder head, remember that part's coolant passages have not been protected. In those cases you should perform a complete coolant exchange.
 
Originally Posted By: Jetronic
Dexcool isn't very good at protecting cast iron

That's like saying Mobil 1 is a poor oil because if you run the sump dry, the engine will blow up.

In other words...just a tad disingenuous.
 
Originally Posted By: Jetronic
Originally Posted By: George7941
Originally Posted By: Jetronic
. Dexcool isn't very good at protecting cast iron, and mine has a cast iron block.
http://www.glysantin.de/en/products/g30.html

My ten year old truck has a cast iron block and head and have not had any issues with Dexcool.


You won't get any as long as the cooling system stays full. but drain the fluid an corrosion starts immediately, and keeps corroding for months after refilling


Funny that's never a problem here. With our heat exchangers we are guaranteed to have some air in the system at all times. Never seen rust...
 
Originally Posted By: Ramblejam
Originally Posted By: Jetronic
Dexcool isn't very good at protecting cast iron

That's like saying Mobil 1 is a poor oil because if you run the sump dry, the engine will blow up.

In other words...just a tad disingenuous.


They also say the same wasn't an issue with the older coolant.
 
Originally Posted By: SteveSRT8
Originally Posted By: Jetronic
Originally Posted By: George7941
Originally Posted By: Jetronic
. Dexcool isn't very good at protecting cast iron, and mine has a cast iron block.
http://www.glysantin.de/en/products/g30.html

My ten year old truck has a cast iron block and head and have not had any issues with Dexcool.


You won't get any as long as the cooling system stays full. but drain the fluid an corrosion starts immediately, and keeps corroding for months after refilling


Funny that's never a problem here. With our heat exchangers we are guaranteed to have some air in the system at all times. Never seen rust...


Running dexcool or other OAT coolant?
 
Originally Posted By: Jetronic
They also say the same wasn't an issue with the older coolant.

If you're going to neglect the system and let it run empty/low, then sure...the layer that old coolants put down will provide some measure of protection. However, for the 99.99% of the time this isn't an issue, that same layer is also detrimental for optimum performance. Dex just flat-out works better...

full-60196-261-screenshot_from_2016_07_13_165022.png
 
Originally Posted By: Jetronic


Running dexcool or other OAT coolant?


Always Dex by Prestone or OEM. We have left the factory fill in until component failure now for about a decade. That's usually 150-200k miles or so...
 
Originally Posted By: Ramblejam
Originally Posted By: Jetronic
They also say the same wasn't an issue with the older coolant.

If you're going to neglect the system and let it run empty/low, then sure...the layer that old coolants put down will provide some measure of protection. However, for the 99.99% of the time this isn't an issue, that same layer is also detrimental for optimum performance. Dex just flat-out works better...

full-60196-261-screenshot_from_2016_07_13_165022.png



I'm using OAT aswell, and keep using it. But it's important to note that you can't apply the same level of neglect that you could with the older coolants. LongLife coolant will be considered maintenance free for 150,000 miles, which isn't the case at all!
 
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