Modify oil filter sandwich adapter...

[Corelokt]

I have bought an oil filter sandwich, but it diverts the flow through its outlet, then back in and to the filter. I need it to function as a bypass flow adapter.
Any one know what I need to drill or mill out to allow flow direct to the filter and make those ports work for bypass use?

 

[Kira]

Make a plug with a tiny hole in it and plumb that output into your bypass filter.
The "problem" with all these things is the low pressure, gravity driven drains back to the pan. Kira

 

[Corelokt]

I was told that the adapter for my truck is a full flow type. All the oil goes through the added on circuit before it goes through the original filter.
I need it to allow fluid to flow freely through the original filter as well.

 

[Ihatetochangeoil]

I'm running two bypass filters in parallel and I have a distaste for those sandwich adapters. My gripe is that the O ring which must seal to the oil filter gasket surface never gets replaced, and this is a large potential leak point.

I tapped into oil supply under pressure to power my bypass(es) using a 1/4" npt tee at the location of the oil sensor on the block; one side feeds my bypass, the other side I reinstalled the factory oil pressure sensor. If you're concerned about restricting the flow so as not to "starve" your engine of oil, you can purchase adjustable jets on eBay which are meant for turbo usage, but serve this purpose just fine.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Vibrant-10289-Oil-Restrictor-Fitting-4-AN-to-1-8-NPT-Turbo-with-SS-Jets-/191532713671?hash=item2c983d46c7:g:ATEAAOSwPhdU~j97&vxp=mtr

 

[Kira]

You piped the tapped oil to the first bypass filter then jumped the same flow to the second...paralleled.

Did you use copper tubing?

How does the oil from these two filters drain? I love the idea of bypass filters but the drain circuit is always the weak looking link.

 

[Corelokt]

The whole return issue is why I want the adapter. On my 6.5 diesel I have already cut a return hose from a bypass and wound up putting in new rod bearings. I'll stay as clear of any pulleys as I can.

 

[Ihatetochangeoil]

https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/4223331/Re:_centrifuge#Post4223331

I'm running two bypass filters and a centrifuge. The feed line that supplies all 3 is an AN6 line (nominal 3/8" ID, actual ID is 5/16".

The AN6 line feeds directly into the centrifuge. Upstream (between the centrifuge and the oil galley tap supply) I have two fittings which are AN6 with 1/8 npt gauge ports-these ports feed the two bypasses. One of the bypasses returns thru the valve cover. The second one and the centrifuge return directly to the oil pan. All three have separate shut off valves in line.
I removed (actually purchased a second pan), drilled holes in the side of it (above the oil level and below the crankshaft baffle), welded fittings on, and then swapped out oil pans.
My engine is the 3800 GM V6 transverse mounted. None of my hoses go anywhere near any pulleys. The link above shows my oil pan and drain lines; here is a picture of the top side set up:



All of my hoses are blue Parker Push Lock, rated for 300 degrees F and 250 psi, available on eBay, except the top return line into the valve cover, which is really nonpressure and is clear tygothane C-210A. The picture above is a little out of date, I added another shut off for the filter on the left.

 

[Fred_Garvin]

Corelokt, If the adapter is ful flow and route all of the oil from the adapter to be return in another port it will not likely work. It sounds like an adapter for a oil cooler setup but we would need to see the part or have a pn to look up details.

If you are wanting to install a bypass on the CUCV in your signature why not just put a street tee in at your oil pressure sensor? Then you can run your return to the valve cover or oil pan. That is the way my Dodge is set up.

 

[Corelokt]

That is what I did that gave me a nicely cut return line, a pulled engine and new rod bearings. Never again. I just wonder if I can open up more areas on the base so oil can flow direct to the filter?

 

[Fred_Garvin]

I really think you are over thinking this. The return line would have nothing to do with where you take your supply line from. You will still need to return the oil to the sump in some way. As far as modifying the adapter I would have to see it but I would guess that it is not worth the effort.

 

[AlaskaMike]

Corelokt, I'm missing something--how did your return line get cut when it was routed to the oil pan or valve cover?

 

[Corelokt]

I had it to the oil fill. It shifted enough to get against one of the alternators.

 

[Corelokt]

Oil will return into the sandwich.

 

[Fred_Garvin]

Not enough differential pressure for that to work properly.

Originally Posted By: Corelokt
Oil will return into the sandwich.

 

[Corelokt]

Well, that really sucks.

 

[Fred_Garvin]

Just ditch the adapter and follow my directions above. Even the high dollar Amsoil kits run the return line back to the valve cover or oil fill. Just be smart about routing and securing the lines so you have no repeat issues.

I would recommend placing an orifice at the point where you are picking up your supply to the filter. This will help prioritize more oil flow to the engine at start up than if you have the orifice at or inside the filter.

 

[AlaskaMike]

I completely agree with Fred. The extra time and effort you spend with regard to line routing and securing is well worth it. Most people would laugh at all the zip-ties I use on installations. You might also look at corrugated split-loom to provide a little extra protection for the lines from abrasion, etc.

 

[SHOZ]

I had an oil cooler and a remote filter once. I used the split loom to guard against abrasion. Be sure to get the high temp stuff or it will melt.

 

[AlaskaMike]

Shoz--great point on the high temp split loom. On my Dodge I'm actually using braided steel lines, but I still covered those in split loom. Not really to protect the lines from damage, but to protect other stuff from the lines rubbing on them. That braided steel is rough on stuff that it rubs up against.

 

[Shata]

Originally Posted By: Fred_Garvin
Just ditch the adapter and follow my directions above. Even the high dollar Amsoil kits run the return line back to the valve cover or oil fill. Just be smart about routing and securing the lines so you have no repeat issues.

I would recommend placing an orifice at the point where you are picking up your supply to the filter. This will help prioritize more oil flow to the engine at start up than if you have the orifice at or inside the filter.


Ya just follow what he said, you should have the flow "jetted" to the bypass - even my amsoil kit has oil supply jetted to the bypass so the flow amount is controlled giving priority to the full flow. Like he said where you bring the return oil to either the fill cap or sandwich adaptor or oil pan wont matter at all. I personally say don't put self tapping fitting into your oil pan, Im afraid of metal chip going into oil from doing that.

Just little hint for when you have it setup later, How you tell if bypass is still flowing and not clogged - or for that matter working at all is it will obviously be warm just like your full flow is. I check my bypass filter temp about once a month.

My build: Amsoil bypass