Cobalt Slow Start Issue

[99Saturn]

The last few days, our Cobalt ('06, around 128K miles) has had a slow start after sitting for a while. Specifically, today and yesterday, after the car had not been driven since the day before (sat overnight), it took about 5-10 seconds to turn over. First instance that I ran into it was after visiting family on Christmas. Had driven about 2 hours for the visit (non-stop) and then the car sat for 4 or 5 hours. When we went to leave, I was cranking for ~ 5 seconds and then realized I might have a problem. Stopped and tried a second time, turned right over.

So, I figured I should get the battery tested, which I did at AAP this afternoon. Said it was good but needs a recharge, which I thought was strange given the 2 hour trip (each way) on Sunday. Trip to AAP is about 5 miles which is all it was driven today.



So, does anything on the above printout raise concern - battery, starter, alternator?

As a side note, I did get a whiff of gas on Christmas after we parked. I had thought it was the person we parked next two but I noticed today when I was clearing out the trunk to test the battery that I smelled gas. This car is subject to a service bulletin (12191) that refers to a gas odor. Not sure if this is the cause, I don't have any puddling and could not see any visible leaks from a quick look underneath.

 

[mehullica]

Check the voltage drop across the stater, both battery terminals, & the ground cable

 

[drtyler]

How old is the battery?

 

[Ojustracing]

I second the how old the battery is? That battery tested out missing almost 150 amps less than rated and at 12.6v. I would replace the battery.

 

[99Saturn]

Originally Posted By: drtyler
How old is the battery?


Unknown, we bought the car in March 2014, and the battery was in the car. It's an Interstate, so clearly not the original. Date was not marked as far as I can tell.

 

[rustypigeon]

Originally Posted By: 99Saturn
Originally Posted By: drtyler
How old is the battery?


Unknown, we bought the car in March 2014, and the battery was in the car. It's an Interstate, so clearly not the original. Date was not marked as far as I can tell.


You can find out the manufacture date of the Interstate battery by looking at the letters/numbers stamped on the top...
http://www.batteries-faq.com/activekb/questions.php?questionid=53

A 4 or 5-digit shipping date code is engraved into the cover of each Interstate battery at the time the battery is shipped from the manufacturing plant. This code can only be seen when looking down on the top of the battery. The code is not on the label on the battery and it is not on the rim around the cover. The code is usually near one of the corners of the battery. This code tells when the battery was shipped from the factory to the local Interstate Battery wholesale distributor. The additional digits tell where the battery was made.

The first digit from the left side is a letter which stands for the month of the year. A = January; B = February; C = March, etc. The second digit from the left is the year that the battery was shipped from the factory (0 = 2010, 1 = 2011, 2 = 2012, 3 = 2013, 4 = 2014, 5=2015).

 

[dishdude]

Originally Posted By: 99Saturn
Originally Posted By: drtyler
How old is the battery?


Unknown, we bought the car in March 2014, and the battery was in the car. It's an Interstate, so clearly not the original. Date was not marked as far as I can tell.


I'd replace the battery. Alternator is putting out the correct voltage and you had just driven the car 2 hours on Sunday. No reason for it to have a low charge.

If you don't want to do that, try putting it on a charger and retesting.

 

[99Saturn]

Originally Posted By: rustypigeon
Originally Posted By: 99Saturn
Originally Posted By: drtyler
How old is the battery?


Unknown, we bought the car in March 2014, and the battery was in the car. It's an Interstate, so clearly not the original. Date was not marked as far as I can tell.


You can find out the manufacture date of the Interstate battery by looking at the letters/numbers stamped on the top...
http://www.batteries-faq.com/activekb/questions.php?questionid=53

A 4 or 5-digit shipping date code is engraved into the cover of each Interstate battery at the time the battery is shipped from the manufacturing plant. This code can only be seen when looking down on the top of the battery. The code is not on the label on the battery and it is not on the rim around the cover. The code is usually near one of the corners of the battery. This code tells when the battery was shipped from the factory to the local Interstate Battery wholesale distributor. The additional digits tell where the battery was made.

The first digit from the left side is a letter which stands for the month of the year. A = January; B = February; C = March, etc. The second digit from the left is the year that the battery was shipped from the factory (0 = 2010, 1 = 2011, 2 = 2012, 3 = 2013, 4 = 2014, 5=2015).


Thanks! I just assumed that the month and date code sticker on top would be the only indication of the date. Code is B27MB, so February 2012 assuming I'm looking at the right code.

 

[99Saturn]

Originally Posted By: dishdude
Originally Posted By: 99Saturn
Originally Posted By: drtyler
How old is the battery?


Unknown, we bought the car in March 2014, and the battery was in the car. It's an Interstate, so clearly not the original. Date was not marked as far as I can tell.


I'd replace the battery. Alternator is putting out the correct voltage and you had just driven the car 2 hours on Sunday. No reason for it to have a low charge.

If you don't want to do that, try putting it on a charger and retesting.


Thanks - I'm not opposed I just didn't really want to throw $100 at it without some idea if I was on the right track. I was surprised about the notation to "recharge" given the two 2 hour trips. I had asked the question when I was getting it tested, but didn't get much of an answer, and get that the tester doesn't know all the variables.

 

[rustypigeon]

Originally Posted By: 99Saturn
Code is B27MB, so February 2012 assuming I'm looking at the right code.


Yep, that is the correct code. They are 4 or 5 digit codes.

 

[maximus]

Battery is shot. Obviously it won't stay charged. Replace it and move on with life.

 

[Danno]

Alternator charging a battery in poor shape, could lead to replacing the alternator as well. They're not designed for high output all the time.

 

[mjoekingz28]

The trunk can get pretty dirty. Budget a few hours to remove the battery, clean out the trunk well (check spare tire psi while there) and then coat your battery cables.

With the battery removed from the car- clean it well and check (add if necessary) distilled water.

Good luck!

 

[supton]

I don't see how this is the battery. Unless if it was cranking slow, I don't see the connection (I didn't read your plot, it's possible the battery is on its way out, I wouldn't know anyhow).

The fact that you stopped cranking for a few seconds and then it started tells me that the fuel pump may not be holding pressure. There usually is a regulator of some sort which holds pressure in the system; if it bleeds down then it can lead to long cranking times--when in reality, setting the key to run, waiting 10 seconds, then cranking may obtain "instant" starting. Edit: setting the key to run enables the fuel pump for 10-15 seconds, to pressurize the system (it typically shuts off after that, until the engine is actually running).

Now, smelling gas has me worried. I'd be very concerned about a pinhole leak in the main line (AFAIK the return is not pressurized). I'd be leery of driving this car until this smell is resolved. Putting that aside, next time it sits for a few hours, by all means, see if it requires a long crank, thus establishing the issue; then after a subsequent long wait time, try first setting the key to run, waiting 10 seconds, then cranking, to see if it starts faster.

Edit: Cycling the key (setting to run, then back to off, then back to run, etc) may be required if it takes a long time for the pump to get to full pressure. Usually you can hear the electric fuel pump, especially if you are outside of the car, if the engine is off.

 

[The_Eric]

Originally Posted By: supton
I don't see how this is the battery. Unless if it was cranking slow, I don't see the connection (I didn't read your plot, it's possible the battery is on its way out, I wouldn't know anyhow).

The fact that you stopped cranking for a few seconds and then it started tells me that the fuel pump may not be holding pressure. There usually is a regulator of some sort which holds pressure in the system; if it bleeds down then it can lead to long cranking times--when in reality, setting the key to run, waiting 10 seconds, then cranking may obtain "instant" starting. Edit: setting the key to run enables the fuel pump for 10-15 seconds, to pressurize the system (it typically shuts off after that, until the engine is actually running).

Now, smelling gas has me worried. I'd be very concerned about a pinhole leak in the main line (AFAIK the return is not pressurized). I'd be leery of driving this car until this smell is resolved. Putting that aside, next time it sits for a few hours, by all means, see if it requires a long crank, thus establishing the issue; then after a subsequent long wait time, try first setting the key to run, waiting 10 seconds, then cranking, to see if it starts faster.

Edit: Cycling the key (setting to run, then back to off, then back to run, etc) may be required if it takes a long time for the pump to get to full pressure. Usually you can hear the electric fuel pump, especially if you are outside of the car, if the engine is off.


I agree. Looking at the test slip makes me think the battery is fine. 12.65 volts unloaded and 11.29 while cranking seems normal enough to me. Lots of people are jumping on the battery band wagon, but if the car is cranking over at it's typical speed, I'd look elsewhere.

 

[99Saturn]

Originally Posted By: The_Eric
Originally Posted By: supton
I don't see how this is the battery. Unless if it was cranking slow, I don't see the connection (I didn't read your plot, it's possible the battery is on its way out, I wouldn't know anyhow).

The fact that you stopped cranking for a few seconds and then it started tells me that the fuel pump may not be holding pressure. There usually is a regulator of some sort which holds pressure in the system; if it bleeds down then it can lead to long cranking times--when in reality, setting the key to run, waiting 10 seconds, then cranking may obtain "instant" starting. Edit: setting the key to run enables the fuel pump for 10-15 seconds, to pressurize the system (it typically shuts off after that, until the engine is actually running).

Now, smelling gas has me worried. I'd be very concerned about a pinhole leak in the main line (AFAIK the return is not pressurized). I'd be leery of driving this car until this smell is resolved. Putting that aside, next time it sits for a few hours, by all means, see if it requires a long crank, thus establishing the issue; then after a subsequent long wait time, try first setting the key to run, waiting 10 seconds, then cranking, to see if it starts faster.

Edit: Cycling the key (setting to run, then back to off, then back to run, etc) may be required if it takes a long time for the pump to get to full pressure. Usually you can hear the electric fuel pump, especially if you are outside of the car, if the engine is off.


I agree. Looking at the test slip makes me think the battery is fine. 12.65 volts unloaded and 11.29 while cranking seems normal enough to me. Lots of people are jumping on the battery band wagon, but if the car is cranking over at it's typical speed, I'd look elsewhere.


Seems like you guys are onto something. I went out this morning to poke around after thinking about it more and reading your posts, noticed a bit of gas on the ground. Turned it over, got a couple of drops. Looked under the car and can see some dampness.

Maybe the battery is bad too, but I think I have a different issue to figure out first.

 

[dishdude]

Originally Posted By: 99Saturn
Originally Posted By: The_Eric
Originally Posted By: supton
I don't see how this is the battery. Unless if it was cranking slow, I don't see the connection (I didn't read your plot, it's possible the battery is on its way out, I wouldn't know anyhow).

The fact that you stopped cranking for a few seconds and then it started tells me that the fuel pump may not be holding pressure. There usually is a regulator of some sort which holds pressure in the system; if it bleeds down then it can lead to long cranking times--when in reality, setting the key to run, waiting 10 seconds, then cranking may obtain "instant" starting. Edit: setting the key to run enables the fuel pump for 10-15 seconds, to pressurize the system (it typically shuts off after that, until the engine is actually running).

Now, smelling gas has me worried. I'd be very concerned about a pinhole leak in the main line (AFAIK the return is not pressurized). I'd be leery of driving this car until this smell is resolved. Putting that aside, next time it sits for a few hours, by all means, see if it requires a long crank, thus establishing the issue; then after a subsequent long wait time, try first setting the key to run, waiting 10 seconds, then cranking, to see if it starts faster.

Edit: Cycling the key (setting to run, then back to off, then back to run, etc) may be required if it takes a long time for the pump to get to full pressure. Usually you can hear the electric fuel pump, especially if you are outside of the car, if the engine is off.


I agree. Looking at the test slip makes me think the battery is fine. 12.65 volts unloaded and 11.29 while cranking seems normal enough to me. Lots of people are jumping on the battery band wagon, but if the car is cranking over at it's typical speed, I'd look elsewhere.


Seems like you guys are onto something. I went out this morning to poke around after thinking about it more and reading your posts, noticed a bit of gas on the ground. Turned it over, got a couple of drops. Looked under the car and can see some dampness.

Maybe the battery is bad too, but I think I have a different issue to figure out first.


There is a section of fuel line on those cars that can rust out, a plastic replacement is available.