'06 Odyssey motor mount can't possibly be right...

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Replacing all motor mounts on an '06 Honda Odyssey Touring, 3.5L V-6 w/active mounts. Haven't gotten to any of the other mounts yet but this right-front has me puzzled. First, the bolt (11MM) that goes through it and the cast aluminum fork that attaches it to the engine has no sleeve or other hardware, which means there's a difference of a whole .250" between the bolt shank and the .750" I.D. mount sleeve. The old mount didn't have anything to take up this space, either, and the car doesn't appear to have been cobbled together anywhere else assuming the MM's aren't original to begin with. Secondly, the rubber in the mount doesn't appear to be made to support weight bearing down, but up. Haven't looked back at the old mount since I noticed this, but it's very counter intuitive to me that the mount appears to be made to function in a hanging (stalactite) fashion, rather than a pedestal (stalag might) fashion. Any advice?



 
The bolt is an M12x110mm is the bolt correct? It may be the incorrect mount, I don't recall any sort of bushing just the damper and IIRC the hole was smaller.
The correct mount for the 06 is part# 50820SHJA03

Edit: Do not use aftermarket mounts on this engine, OE are very expensive but they are the only ones that work properly, all aftermarkets are not worth a pee hole in the snow.
 
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Trav, I'll double check the bolt dim's in the morning but it very well could be 12MM. Looking at that part number on Ebay, even the "genuine Honda" examples going for $65+ appear to be identical. The owner said he'd been told anything but OEM mounts was a mistake but he just couldn't justify the $1,500 for the set and would chance a set of Beck-Arnley replacements. Would you happen to have the part numbers for the hardware related to this assembly?
 
These should be the parts you want info on. I will look for a mount in the garage from one of these, if I can find it I will measure the hole diameter.
Please do yourself a huge favor and don't use those mounts, they have the durability of a wet noodle, you will find yourself on an endless merry go round until you break down and buy the OE. I have done more than a dozen sets of these over the years and tried them all and none worked out well.
The best aftermarket lasted 6mo but had vibrations and the worst 2 weeks until total failure of the front and rear mount.

http://www.originalhondaparts.com/auto-p...ounts-06-2-scat
 
Be very careful with aftermarket mounts. I ordered a bunch of Beck Arnley mounts and they were all junk.

Either they didn't fit at all or they vibrated like crazy. One of them was the wrong mount in the correct box! RockAuto swore that I had the correct mount but when I checked the box and then the bagged mount inside the box, the box was correct but the bag had a label with a part number for a different model car. They gave me a replacement for that one. That replacement didn't fit either. I tried to force it in and the crossmember fell on my face causing a deep gash that required an emergency room visit and plastic surgery.

I learned my lesson the hard way, always go OEM rofl. I had insurance through work but the 50 copay on the emergency room visit nullified going aftermarket.
 
Replacing mounts is an excercise in itself you will pay dearly with non-OEM mounts. Trust me I know of many who regret doing this useless exercise of mucking with non-OEM mounts.
 
I read and will forever heed this thread.

Who'da thought something simple like a mount couldn't be copied faithfully?

The dirty dogs must be tailoring anything they can around rubber bits they already have. Kira
 
I just looked around and it must have gone in the scrap metal they took away over the summer. The mounts for this engine cost about $1200 from Village Honda (I buy from them, their price and service is good).
The rear mount alone has an almost $700 list price $450 from them, wholesale is a little less but not much so there is no way a $45-100 aftermarket is going to match the quality (remember Honda warranties the mount and the labor), this and the front one are very special electronic controlled mounts.

One way to cure the mount issues common with these engines is to use a VCM muzzler to shut the VCM so it doesn't shut down cylinders, this is the best thing you can do for these engines, it will save the mounts and countless other headaches with this miserable horribly implemented system.
There are a few tricks to save time on the mounts and some common tools to make it easier if your interested. The FSM gets it wrong on the rear mount, you cannot remove it from the top, its physically impossible.
The right and left sides are quick and easy.
 
Every version of this right-front mount and its hardware I can find online is the same as what I have in front of me, so as strange as it sounds (to me and you) it may just be designed for drivetrain containment in a crash and is designed to float without load under normal conditions. Hey Trav, I am curious how to get the two big 'uns out, I'd appreciate any info you have on the process. PM sent.
 
So based on the videos I've seen it kind of looks like the bracket the bolt goes into pinches on the metal collar in that mount. So the bolt only serves to pinch the metal collar as you tighten it.

I admit I have never seen a mount or bushing like this before. Every single one I've seen has the bolt fit the collar directly. Most unusual, not sure why it's like that.
 
I wish I still had a mount around around but I just checked them against the original and installed them, I didn't really look at how or why they are made that way.
Anyway, the rear comes out from below, you can leave the exhaust crossover in just remove the bolts for the hanger near the flex element so you can obtain clearance for the lower mount support bolts on one side.
Lift the engine slightly from below to relieve any pressure off the mount then remove the bolts, you may need to use a box end wrench on the 2 above the hanger, I usually give it a hit with a dead blow to loosen them, they come down far enough to clear the lower mount support without actually taking them out.

I find a long flex head or extendable 3/8 ratchet works well on the mount to support block front bolts and 3/8 drive 14mm with wobble and extension on the singe upper mount bolt. Mark the lower corner of the mount support so you remember which way it goes in, it gets moved around a lot during this.
Start the upper single bolt first, its a bugger otherwise. PM sent.

This guy has a good video.
 
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It sure does if its a Touring, he needs the VCM Muzzler for that car before he is spending a small fortune on mounts. What happens to these things is the non active mount that normally take the bulk of the load begin to deteriorate placing excess loading on the front and rear active mounts (actually they are the L/R side mounts) but its horizontal in the engine bay so for simplicity they call them front and rear.

These mounts are overly complex with silicone based fluid and electric components to firm them up when energized, it doesn't take much to cause the bags to fail and the mount to collapse on the metal mount frame which causes vibration throughout the vehicle.

Believe me this is the best $100 he will ever spend on that van, if the mounts are still okay they will usually soldier on for a long time. If the Muzzler is used permanently as it should be non VCM mounts which are a lot cheaper can be retrofitted with a few minor mods so it thinks the active mounts are still in place, in this non VCM mode they produce no additional vibration.
One of he first one I shut down on an 05 Touring in 07 using my own method (same as muzzler without the plug and play) before the guy came out with the "Muzzler" is still on the OE mounts at 210K. There are lots of other benefits to disabling the VCM also, the only downside is a very minor hit in MPG but that is many times offset by the savings in mounts alone.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/VCMuzzler-II-for-Disabling-VCM-on-Honda-and-Acura-Vehicles-/172249356977
 
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