Stripped oil pan drain hole

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The dealer tells me that the threads are partially stripped on the drain plug and hole, and that I should plan to replace my oil pan. They sealed it all up with Honda bond this time, but can't promise how many times that will work for me.

My question is this--wouldn't it make better sense to just tap new threads and use a larger size drain plug? Other than wanting to bring my in for a $700+ job (which isn't going to happen anyway; I only did the OC at the dealer because they offered a Mobil 1 oil change cheaper than I could buy the oil at WalMart), why would it be better to replace the pan?

IF I do need to or decide to replace the pan, should I just put the Honda part on? Is there a "better" oil pan out there?

(By the way, I didn't strip the bolt. I just bought the car at the end of the summer, and haven't even been under it yet.)
 
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Honda sells a repair kit and I'm sure there are aftermarket ones out there too. However, when I looked into it for a friend a while back the repair kit was about as expensive as a new pan so that's what we did.

If you can find an oversize plug then give it a try. You'll still need the correct drill and tap, and I'd take the pan off to do that work if it were me. When we evaluated all the options we just decided on a whole new pan.

I also saw some self-tapping plugs but I wasn't willing to try that on a friend's car. You might however.
 
It's stamped sheet metal, there isn't going to be material to drill the hole larger and tap a larger hole. Besides, doing so should require you to pull the pan anyway (unless you want shavings floating around your oil), why would you not then use a new pan?

I'd rockauto a pan and a gasket, I'm sure it's a 30 minute job and probably fairly inexpensive.
 
There are repair plugs and what not, but it's not worth the worry. Replace the pan, try a bone yard for a cheap one.
 
There are rubber drain plugs like:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Needa-Parts-652006-1-2-Rubber-Oil-Drain-Plug-/371528392978?hash=item5680d16112:g:8e0AAOSw65FXvdQy&vxp=mtr

and there are drain plug repair kits made specifically for Hondas such as:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Time-Sert-1415C-M14x1-5-Metric-Drain-Plug-Repair-Kit-for-Honda-Acura-/282233113597?hash=item41b6678bfd:g:RC4AAOSwA3dYEA43

Look on ebay under rebber drain plug, and under Honda drain plug repair
 
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Originally Posted By: Trav
Steel or Aluminum pan?

I don't know. They didn't say, and I haven't gone under the car to check (it's 13 F out today!).
I assume it is original, but I don't know what that was. It has the VTEC engine if that means anything.
 
Originally Posted By: knerml
Suggest bonding in an oil drain valve, using the same thread as original.

Oil Drain Valve

BTW, I have not used this product. There are also other similar products.

That looks interesting, but I think I'd be afraid to trust it. Does it have a good rep?
 
Originally Posted By: Patrologia
Originally Posted By: Trav
Steel or Aluminum pan?

I don't know. They didn't say, and I haven't gone under the car to check (it's 13 F out today!).
I assume it is original, but I don't know what that was. It has the VTEC engine if that means anything.


I was a mechanic at a Honda dealer before more schooling to eventually become a UPS semi mechanic.
VTEC oil pans were aluminum while non VTEC were stamped steel. The problem was people would not use a new crush gasket for every oil change and damage the threads. Some people could get away with changing the oil 50 times without using a new crush gasket, but... .
 
The one I did was aluminum. His daughter (away at school) took it to Walmart for an oil change and they stripped it. She took it back and they sent it somewhere for a "repair" which consisted of installing a self-tapping plug. It still leaked. When she came home for the summer I put on the new pan for him.

BTW if it is aluminum and you do buy a new pan, the new one does not come with a nipple for the oil filter (assuming yours is like the one I did). You have to buy it separately.
 
I would not do a drill and tap job, as you need a flange for the sump plug washer.

Although you could try the Honda repair kit (Not sure if it's just a helicoil insert and matching plug or not), the cheapest solution is to just seal the plug in and use an oil drain pump (The Pela is a good one), like the Iffylube places do.
You could also use a good sealant (Marine Silkoflex or one of the sealants used when installing a new HG will work) to install a Fumoto valve.

The only time the pan needs replacing is if it's been grounded or hit by a rock!
 
IIRC some Honda aluminum pans used a short thread drain bolt but there are a lot of unused threads further in and a longer drain bolt will work and seal fine. I cant remember the model or the years.
You can check this by looking in the hole at the threads and measuring up there then measure the bolt length, if there are more threads then go and get a longer drain bolt with new washer and tighten it carefully. If somebody knows more about this please chime in.
 
If you change oil yourself get a vacuum oil extractor. If you have it done for you, call around and find a place that has an oil extractor.
 
Originally Posted By: Trav
IIRC some Honda aluminum pans used a short thread drain bolt but there are a lot of unused threads further in and a longer drain bolt will work and seal fine. I cant remember the model or the years.
You can check this by looking in the hole at the threads and measuring up there then measure the bolt length, if there are more threads then go and get a longer drain bolt with new washer and tighten it carefully. If somebody knows more about this please chime in.


That's good to know, so Honda have in effect a fail safe sump plug design. So I presume the kit is just a longer bolt and washer.
 
Originally Posted By: Trav
I will try and find more information on it, its been so long so I did one I just cant remember the details.


I saw that online when I did the pan for my friend, but any hope of recovery was ruined by the repair of using a self-tapping plug.

I agree though that the original plug does have short threads.
 
Originally Posted By: knerml
Suggest bonding in an oil drain valve, using the same thread as original.

Oil Drain Valve

BTW, I have not used this product. There are also other similar products.


I'd do some sort of repair with a fumoto drain valve.
 
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