Could this be after effects of Ceratec?

[NycDito]

Originally Posted By: SR5

Was the white residue gritty ??

Looking at these pictures again, I suspect your car has some light varnish that the flush has started to gently move.

The shiny white stuff may not be an inorganic precipitation like I first thought. It may be a shiny clearish surface on the oil / varnish that acts like a mirror and appears white. I've seen this before (in chemistry, not an engine).

You are also using regular fuel additives, this can also find it's way into the oil. So you now have a mix of oil flush, oil additives and fuel additives all mixed up.

My advice: stop spending money on all these extras. Just run it on good oil and good fuel for a bit and see how it goes. Like they say, a few short OCI is a gentle way to clean up an engine.


Thanks i will be changing my whole additive addiction haha..

The feel was very slick, was not really gritty. Im assuming it was Cera Tec. I poured it right onto that splash shield when i was adding it. could jsust as well be left over that did not drain to the bottom.

 

[MolaKule]

Originally Posted By: Brybo86
Looks like short tripping mayo.
How long does the car typically get driven?


Yep.

Why do you think you need Ceratec and what advantage, if any, has it shown you?

 

[NycDito]

Originally Posted By: MolaKule
Originally Posted By: Brybo86
Looks like short tripping mayo.
How long does the car typically get driven?


Yep.

Why do you think you need Ceratec and what advantage, if any, has it shown you?


"Need" .. i can't really give you an answer. If the claims are true about the advantages of Ceratec, i wanted to try it and did. Did i put the oil under any analysis, no sir i did not. Wish i could hehe

Trust me, im not a big supporter of additives. I remember people buying up Bars leaks, lucas oil and Slick 50 like crazy when i worked in retail. And i was VERY skeptical putting in an engine flush. I have always heard crazy stories of all of a sudden weird things happening to motors. Being that i sell a lot of these same products to shops, and have gotten good responses, i decided to try it out.

It makes sense to me (and dont know why i didnt think of this rigth away), that since i poured the Cera Tec on top of that splash guard thing, it did not drain towards the bottom. So that might as well be the left over cera tec sitting right on top.

 

[demarpaint]

I'm pretty sure it is what I said earlier, remaining flush flashing off and doing some additional cleaning. I would have done a shortened OCI to get any remaining junk out from the flush before I added Ceratec, MoS2 or anything else for that matter.

 

[UltrafanUK]

Varnish deposits often get confused with normal brown staining that you often get with many dino base stock oils, BUT real heavy top end varnish is bad news, particularly if it blocks to oil feed line to a turbo, or piston oil jet cooling holes.

When I use Ceratec, I add it half way through the fill to help mix it up. I would only use it in an engine with a known issue, like bad bearings, not in a new block until it has fully run in. That might take 100K miles for a good diesel.
I use it in my Twingo cos the cam phaser (Type of VVT) bearing is worn enough to be audible and in my 1.9TDI due to severe service concerns, including a desire for the block to survive a HG failure or serious overheat.

 

[UltrafanUK]

A limited amount of dirt or grit in the oil does no real harm. It simply gets caught in the oil filter.

The particles that cause real harm are small enough to get stuck in a bearing race or in the rings. Oddly enough new engine oil has a lot of debris in it and it causes no real harm unless it has enough lumps of sealant to block the oil pump intake screen, which is very rare.

 

[UltrafanUK]

Originally Posted By: SR5
I suspect the flush wasn't fully removed and it's precipitating out, maybe even reacting with something.

Doing analytical chemistry for a living (inorganic) I wish I had a bit here to analyze for you.

But the way forward is obvious for me: Change Your Oil, use a good synthetic BMW LL-01 oil, and Stop using Flushes and Additives.

You say the engine is running well, so good quality fresh oil is all it needs.


I've taken a copy of the post above and sent it to a friend in LM R&D, as he likes a good laugh!!

How the heck can a solvent flush precipitate out. The only real short term reaction would be if it caught fire!

LM spent a lot of time testing their additives and they continue to modify their products (Ceratec was changed slightly recently), BUT there might still be a risk if you mix in additional non German additives like MMO.

If you are doing long extended OCI's like wot I do, using an idle flush is standard practice, as oil flow rates are very, very important, as no oil works correctly if it can't reach the bearings and rings at a sufficient rate due to sludge or varnish.

 

[demarpaint]

After seeing pictures of it settling out of suspension in cars that weren't driven everyday I scrapped the idea of trying it years ago.

 

[SteveSRT8]

Originally Posted By: demarpaint
After seeing pictures of it settling out of suspension in cars that weren't driven everyday I scrapped the idea of trying it years ago.



All you need to do is remove the engine and shake vigorously!

 

[NycDito]

Originally Posted By: SteveSRT8
Originally Posted By: demarpaint
After seeing pictures of it settling out of suspension in cars that weren't driven everyday I scrapped the idea of trying it years ago.



All you need to do is remove the engine and shake vigorously!

im going to try this next

 

[UltrafanUK]

Originally Posted By: demarpaint
After seeing pictures of it settling out of suspension in cars that weren't driven everyday I scrapped the idea of trying it years ago.


Ceratec will not settle out of suspension, but some cheaper forms of Moly sure will, although it does not matter unless you foget to shake the old can.

Oddly enough if you don't use a modern major brand Moly or ceramic oil additive, it will result in both increased fuel and oil consumption, unless you use an expensive oil that has high levels of Moly, or real low friction figures. That probably means using Redline or Ultra, as Reline has loads of Moly and Ultra has some
Moly but a real good slippery GTL base stock.

 

[demarpaint]

Originally Posted By: UltrafanUK
Originally Posted By: demarpaint
After seeing pictures of it settling out of suspension in cars that weren't driven everyday I scrapped the idea of trying it years ago.


Ceratec will not settle out of suspension, but some cheaper forms of Moly sure will, although it does not matter unless you foget to shake the old can.

Oddly enough if you don't use a modern major brand Moly or ceramic oil additive, it will result in both increased fuel and oil consumption, unless you use an expensive oil that has high levels of Moly, or real low friction figures. That probably means using Redline or Ultra, as Reline has loads of Moly and Ultra has some
Moly but a real good slippery GTL base stock.


Trav had it settle out of suspension, along with MoS2 and IIRC posted pictures of it. I've heard of a few similar complaints, and over the years stumbled upon other pictures of it settling. I'm not bashing either of the products, some people have had success with them. I have two vehicles in my fleet which can sit for weeks at a time during the winter months, which is why I stopped using MoS2, and canned trying Ceratec. For someone driving everyday it will probably be a very different story.

 

[Ohle_Manezzini]

Only if you're using a lazy dispersant engine oil. Trav didn't said fall offs about Ceratec either.

 

[demarpaint]

Originally Posted By: Ohle_Manezzini
Only if you're using a lazy dispersant engine oil. Trav didn't said fall offs about Ceratec either.


Trust me he did, and MoS2. He and I have actually spoken about it.

 

[UltrafanUK]

The engine needs to be run for about 100 miles to mix any additive up correctly. Normally you can't see additives as they look like oil, but Moly is dark grey or black and LM don't do what some Iffy companies do and dye their additives. Alas Ceratec looks just like cream tea, which some Addaholics get very excited about in their posts.
I've been using half a can every OCI and have never seen any residue (I did drop the oil pan due to a gasket leak), but add the Cery half way through the fill to help it mix up.

 

[demarpaint]

Originally Posted By: UltrafanUK
The engine needs to be run for about 100 miles to mix any additive up correctly. Normally you can't see additives as they look like oil, but Moly is dark grey or black and LM don't do what some Iffy companies do and dye their additives. Alas Ceratec looks just like cream tea, which some Addaholics get very excited about in their posts.
I've been using half a can every OCI and have never seen any residue (I did drop the oil pan due to a gasket leak), but add the Cery half way through the fill to help it mix up.


Obviously it worked better for you than it did for Trav. The vehicle in question sat for long periods of time, months IIRC. One of my three vehicles can sit that long as well, which is why I scrapped the idea across my fleet. I saw the pictures of the sediment in the bottom of his pan, which didn't mix through. As I said earlier for vehicles which don't sit for long periods of time there are plenty of satisfied users. I can't dispute that, and I'm not bashing the product. For people like myself, and others who have vehicles that sit for long periods of time, I'm giving them a heads up.