Tips on a clean oil change

[Cujet]

Most people don't understand that the filter does not "Need" to be changed at every oil change. Cut one apart, and you are likely to see zero debris in the element.

On some vehicles, one can easily go 3 oil changes between filter changes.

That, and a drain valve, will help immensely.

 

[fdcg27]

You're right about the holding capacity versus particles shed, but what about the integrity of the oil filter itself?
Even quality filters can suffer torn or otherwise degraded media over time and ADB valves aren't lifetime parts either.
If I'm going to bother to drain the oil, to R&R the oil filter is neither inconvenient nor costly.
Yeah, Honda says that I can run the same oil filter for two OCIs, which as we use the car would be maybe 17-18K. I'd just as soon change it at each drain since 8-9K seems like a reasonable life for an oil filter and it's not as though it really owes me anything at that point anyway.

 

[exranger06]

Remove the old oil filter first BEFORE draining the oil out. That way, if you happen to drop the filter as you're removing it (which will be covered in oil and be very slippery), it won't fall into a catch pan already full of oil and splash oil everywhere.

As soon as you drain the oil, immediately take your catch pan and empty it out into a seal-able container. The less amount of time you have a catch pan full of oil, the less chance you'll have of stepping on it or kicking it and making a mess.

 

[69GTX]

Originally Posted By: Killer223
i use a drain valve on my Cummins engines, my wifes Civic, just normal. then i use a plastic ziplock bag around the filter. no mess... like none.
Same with my 11 ford ranger. i'm not sure about other makes n what not. but this method has always been clean way for me... just make sure the zip lock back is of sufficient size for the filter.



Great idea that I'm going to try. Maybe just a plastic newspaper delivery bag or plastic grocery bag instead. I've been spilling oil on my 4.6L every time that filter comes off. It's inverted on an angle where you have to stick your hand up through a 3-4" slot in the undercarriage protective cover.

 

[Jim K]

Originally Posted By: 69GTX
Originally Posted By: Killer223
i use a drain valve on my Cummins engines, my wifes Civic, just normal. then i use a plastic ziplock bag around the filter. no mess... like none.
Same with my 11 ford ranger. i'm not sure about other makes n what not. but this method has always been clean way for me... just make sure the zip lock back is of sufficient size for the filter.



Great idea that I'm going to try. Maybe just a plastic newspaper delivery bag or plastic grocery bag instead. I've been spilling oil on my 4.6L every time that filter comes off. It's inverted on an angle where you have to stick your hand up through a 3-4" slot in the undercarriage protective cover.

Both good ideas. I never thought of that . I`ll give it try on the next change. I just put a fumoto valve on the 2014 Corolla but havn`t used it yet because I waited til my free oil changes were over from the dealer.I had a Fumoto valve on a previous car and they work just fine.

 

[Traction]

After 50 years of changing my oil, I picked up a couple good ideas myself in this thread. Since I most always use ramps for room, using a 2 gallon plastic bucket for oil, and dropping the filter first makes perfect sense, and I will change my method. Thanks

 

[Kira]

The "practice makes perfect" observation is a solid one as is the "filter first" advice.

The oft cited Fomoto valve while good on paper reduces ground clearance by quite a bit and is a NO-GO for darn near every vehicle I've been under.

 

[Gary]

Dad used an old tin snipped metal 10 qt oil can for draining. I have an open top plastic pour tub. He used a 1/2" funnel. I have a widemouth that fits inside the fill hole, dump and go. He had 5 oil cans with a punched vent hole in each; that was bad for the Honda trunk carpet. I use a 3 gal kitty litter jug that the funnel fits. He used a jack; I have ramps.

A gal. of mineral spirits is the best cheap cleanup solvent ever for anything oil soluable along with gum, goo, etc that soapy water doesn't clean; carport stains minimizeed.

As much as UOA could have the filter extended, I don't push it to 10K mi. with the possibilty of element degredation from long term heat exposure like those sometimes crumbly examples. More reassurance of failure prevention.

 

[rodinator1234]

Originally Posted By: bdcardinal
Some cars are inherently messy to change oil on. For filling I got this from MATCO https://www.matcotools.com/catalog/product/MAF7/MULTI-APPLICATION-OIL-FUNNEL/ It is made my Lisle so you can get it cheaper there.

On my Mustang, changing the filter causes oil to go all over no matter what I do. There is a brace I am going to try and zip off next change to see if that helps any.


On my 2014 Mustang GT I found the best way to combat the oil filter splatter is to take a 8x12 piece of cardboard fold it in half long way and stick it up under the oil filter where it screws to the adapter angled down toward the drain pan. Make a drip pan sort of and it works to catch 90% of the oil from the filter removal. For me it makes it a lot cleaner.

 

[philipp10]

I never have an issue with the drain plug but the filter likes to be messy. I found if you change the filter after sitting over night it reduces the pressure and mess. Some claim the car should be started and warm first but I doubt it makes much difference.

 

[philipp10]

Originally Posted By: fdcg27
You're right about the holding capacity versus particles shed, but what about the integrity of the oil filter itself?
Even quality filters can suffer torn or otherwise degraded media over time and ADB valves aren't lifetime parts either.
If I'm going to bother to drain the oil, to R&R the oil filter is neither inconvenient nor costly.
Yeah, Honda says that I can run the same oil filter for two OCIs, which as we use the car would be maybe 17-18K. I'd just as soon change it at each drain since 8-9K seems like a reasonable life for an oil filter and it's not as though it really owes me anything at that point anyway.


"really doesn't owe you anything" now that's a strange way of looking at it. I could say the same fro pretty much every part on a car, but I don't. Why treat the filter any differently. If it can last 20k and possibly 30k miles, why change it early? Just saying.

 

[barryh]

For me the top loading cartridge filter on my current car has been a huge step forward in keeping the operation clean and it confirmed my decision to use a vacuum extractor as there is then no need to go under the car at all. First thing I do is unscrew the filter housing and leave it sitting in place to allow the oil to drain back into the sump. In the time it takes to vac out the oil through the dipstick hole the filter will be ready to change. I only change the filter every other oil change but still unscrew it to drain out the old oil Then screw it back in again. I know there is an augment that a little old oil left in is a good thing so perhaps I'll have to reconsider that.

 

[Garak]

First tip is to keep me out of the garage. Even if the vehicle is equipped with a Fumoto or Sure Drain or something to avoid mishaps there, I can often find a way to fumble the filter and send it cannonballing into the full drain pan. If there's no Fumoto or the like, I can usually be happy enough with dropping the drain plug, wrench, or ratchet into the pan.

 

[fcjeep]

I got myself one of these a few months back. Used it 3 or 4 times now. I have not gotten a drop of oil on my hands from that split second when the drain plug first comes out.

https://www.amazon.com/OTC-Drain-Plug-Magnetic-Remover/dp/B0054WI7CW

 

[cjcride]

Lot of good advice here already.
I might add don't rush. Whenever I was in a hurry the OC was messy.