Mobil 1 in for 1 year, 2 months, change or not?
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Originally Posted By: 69GTX
Originally Posted By: jimbrewer
Originally Posted By: Kuato
Don't Panic everyone! How about take a sample for UOA, leave it in pending results.
You could, and it would be interesting. Best case scenario you squeeze another 3,000 miles out of it. Not worth it. Change.
The cost of the UOA is the same (or more) than an oil change. What's the UOA going to tell you? Go another few months and 2K miles? Just change it. Living in PA with cold winters doesn't help. In a more temperate climate maybe you could go to 10K-12K miles.
Well...it seems to me that OP may be interested in making sure he uses his oil to the full capacity. If so, a UOA to determine condition will give him guidance to do just that.
If I'm wrong and OP is concerned about his oil's condition and doesn't want to do a UOA, then yes the conservative (and correct) answer is to change it.
For those saying change it's the same price as an oil change and waste of money, look beyond just one oil change.
For example: With three UOAs (or less) you can figure out how long you can safely use a certain brand of motor oil in your engine. If that extends the OCI from say 5000 miles to 10000 miles that would change the number of oil changes in 100k miles from 20 to only 10, so 10 oil changes less...therefore saving the cost of at least 7 oil changes when you subtract the cost of 3 UOAs. UOAs can save $$ in the long term if utilized correctly.
That's all I'm saying.
Originally Posted By: jimbrewer
Originally Posted By: Kuato
Don't Panic everyone! How about take a sample for UOA, leave it in pending results.
You could, and it would be interesting. Best case scenario you squeeze another 3,000 miles out of it. Not worth it. Change.
The cost of the UOA is the same (or more) than an oil change. What's the UOA going to tell you? Go another few months and 2K miles? Just change it. Living in PA with cold winters doesn't help. In a more temperate climate maybe you could go to 10K-12K miles.
Well...it seems to me that OP may be interested in making sure he uses his oil to the full capacity. If so, a UOA to determine condition will give him guidance to do just that.
If I'm wrong and OP is concerned about his oil's condition and doesn't want to do a UOA, then yes the conservative (and correct) answer is to change it.
For those saying change it's the same price as an oil change and waste of money, look beyond just one oil change.
For example: With three UOAs (or less) you can figure out how long you can safely use a certain brand of motor oil in your engine. If that extends the OCI from say 5000 miles to 10000 miles that would change the number of oil changes in 100k miles from 20 to only 10, so 10 oil changes less...therefore saving the cost of at least 7 oil changes when you subtract the cost of 3 UOAs. UOAs can save $$ in the long term if utilized correctly.
That's all I'm saying.
There numerous examples of oil that have been run for 10-15k miles in which the Total Acid Number (TAN) is still less than the Total Bade Number (TBN). Which means the oil is still handling the acid just fine. There are circumstances where the oils do not manage the acid build up quite as well. Meaning less than 6k miles or so. But those circumstances are not all too common though.
Now, I like Castrol as well. In fact Castrol Magnatec is really a very good oil for a very good price. But is Castrol WAY better than Pennzoil, Valvoline, Havoline or Mobil?? No way. You can throw a blanket on all of them as close as they are in terms of high quality. They all make very good oils in which to run. Each has their own tier level of products. Comparing similar oil products in the same tier level would produce very similar results in terms of performance.
Now, I like Castrol as well. In fact Castrol Magnatec is really a very good oil for a very good price. But is Castrol WAY better than Pennzoil, Valvoline, Havoline or Mobil?? No way. You can throw a blanket on all of them as close as they are in terms of high quality. They all make very good oils in which to run. Each has their own tier level of products. Comparing similar oil products in the same tier level would produce very similar results in terms of performance.
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https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/4190879/1992_Surburban_Big_Block_-_M1_
Time means nothing to motor oil. This guy ran the same oil for 5 years but only about 1700 miles and the UOA looks good. Only a UOA is going to tell you its condition; and everything that everyone tells you to the contrary is just speculation.
Do whatever lets you sleep at night.
Time means nothing to motor oil. This guy ran the same oil for 5 years but only about 1700 miles and the UOA looks good. Only a UOA is going to tell you its condition; and everything that everyone tells you to the contrary is just speculation.
Do whatever lets you sleep at night.
Like a dirty diaper just change it.
Originally Posted By: jarad248
No oil can handle acid very well beyond 5000 miles.
The best oil in the world is the Castrol Edge line.
See my other posts for details..
Nay, Amsoil sayeth otherwise with their God writing upon the oily web site in the 10 commandments that 25K miles is perfectly OK.
I sure would think twice before using Casteroil Edge beyond 5K miles!
PS: Castrol Margetech is just as bad as their Hedge.
No oil can handle acid very well beyond 5000 miles.
The best oil in the world is the Castrol Edge line.
See my other posts for details..
Nay, Amsoil sayeth otherwise with their God writing upon the oily web site in the 10 commandments that 25K miles is perfectly OK.
I sure would think twice before using Casteroil Edge beyond 5K miles!
PS: Castrol Margetech is just as bad as their Hedge.
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Change it.
Change it.
Keep it in till 10,000 miles. You obviously don't put too many miles on the car so you'll have to worry about other parts of the car breaking apart before the engine does!
Thanks everyone, its daily commute is 11 miles, so it gives time for oil to warm up although it will do occasional shorter runs. For the guy that told me to not go past the Max recommended mileage in the Owners manual, well then I would buy a cheaper conventional or synthetic blend if I would do that, because the OM allows that done on a conventional oil. Yes, I would understand I would follow that if it said to use a synthetic oil. I understand as I read on here about the DI issues but this vehicle doesn't have that. I don't bother doing UOA, because they cost about what you can change oil for. So I'm here and doing it by guessing.
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If you have a nice warm garage to work in, I'd probably change it. If not, I'm sure it will be fine until spring as long as you keep it topped off w fresh M1. A buddy had an old Caravan and he went 18,000 miles on SuperTech synthetic with no ill effects and a few makeup quarts along the way. That engine was so quiet you couldn't even hear it at idle. The motor was fine at 280,000 miles when he had to junk the car for body/frame/suspension issues.
Got it done and put M1EP 5w30 in it. I'm taking on changing oil myself and 2 times I did it I made a mess. I tried a different way and made more of a mess this time. If it stays like this, I'm going to have to go back letting the professionals do it.
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