Is Synthetic Motor Oil Better For Your Car? video

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That video has been posted before, and some of his analysis is interesting. IMO synthetic IS better than dino for your engine, although the line is getting blurred because today's group III oils have gotten so good.
 
The lines are less blurred if you look at GTL or group 4 synthoils. I think the GTL oils like Ultra and some new Mobil 1 I've not seen yet should be classed as group 4, not the present group 3, which has some real junk oils in it.
 
Originally Posted By: HerrStig
This site is so popular because folks trust youtube video.
You have to believe.
 
Originally Posted By: HerrStig
This site is so popular because folks trust youtube video.


So, you are saying the same could be said about BITOG?
 
First you gotta define "synthetic" ... PAO and Ester come to mind for me. Also for me, all else including Grp III is just fancy Dino Oil.

So using those criteria, the next question is how do you define better? High temp wear resistance? High temp shear stability? High pressure loading resistance (ie: cam & lifter)? Or, are you interested in cold start residual film viscosity and strength? Or upper cylinder wear resistance?

For some situations, well refined Dino Oil may be better (cylinder wear out to 300,000 miles). For others the ability to go from just warm to 7,500 RPM and full HP is more important while keeping the motor intact (drag racing). Or doing laps with oil temps at 300* and running on for hours (endurance racing).

Too many variables for for a blanket statement
frown.gif
 
Originally Posted By: BrocLuno
First you gotta define "synthetic" ... PAO and Ester come to mind for me. Also for me, all else including Grp III is just fancy Dino Oil...

How would you define PP and PUP Pure Plus (GTL)?
 
I won't bother watching - it will be the same old arguments about synthetic oil versus dino rehashed.

Point is, modern mineral oils are evidently more than good enough, as evidenced by the DEXOS specifications reaching to semi or fully conventional oils.
Here in Australia, mineral ACEA A3/B4 oils are par for the course - that's your long drain, high detergency oil suitable for many Euro vehicles.
Truckers? Last I heard, mineral oils were still the go-to due to the cost of synthetic oils.

If you don't live in a climate where temperatures reach zero, do the minute "wear savings" from synthetic REALLY make a difference? I'd say no - by the time you get to 300,000km (about 200K miles), the engine will be the least of worries for the intrepid motorist.
 
Originally Posted By: turnbowm
How would you define PP and PUP Pure Plus (GTL)?


In the Pennzoil Q and A,Pennzoil themselves said PP and PUP are group III oils.
 
Originally Posted By: aquariuscsm
In the Pennzoil Q and A,Pennzoil themselves said PP and PUP are group III oils.

I've seen some websites refer to GTL-base synthetics as Group III+, but it's not an official designation as far as I know.
 
Originally Posted By: turnbowm
Originally Posted By: aquariuscsm
In the Pennzoil Q and A,Pennzoil themselves said PP and PUP are group III oils.

I've seen some websites refer to GTL-base synthetics as Group III+, but it's not an official designation as far as I know.


For Groups I, II and III it has to do with properties of the finished oil. Group IV and V are related to the base stock.

All GTL is hydrocracked like any other Group III, and you are correct there is no official Group III+ designation.

http://www.infineuminsight.com/insight/dec-2014/driving-group-iii-differentiation
 
XOM calls Visom GIII+ ... my guess is they do that for allocation of better grades and would not waste them on a rebadged cheap oil vs ACEA oils or per OEM spec ...
Shell might take another approach as long as NG price is low. Of course you tend to ship LNG to a better market ...
 
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