What motor oil is best for me?

Status
Not open for further replies.
H

hunter8793

Joined
Dec 9, 2016
Messages
4
Location
AR
Hi everyone, I'm new here.

I have a 2009 Hummer H3 with the 5.3l v8. I think GM calls it the LH8 motor. It has 69k miles on it.

I have owned it since 47k.

My dad owns an oil change business.

For the past two years we have been putting in this oil that he gets in bulk. I believe it is Coastal 5/30 Synthetic Blend. But I've been wanting to go Full synthetic.

I change the oil every 3k miles
2. I don't have the owners manual. But I'm pretty sure it doesn't require full synthetic. Oil cap just says 5/30 SAE.
3. I live in Arkansas.
4. I mostly drive easy. But sometimes I'll step on it and get it up to 4K rpms. Lol
5. Daily drive is mostly short trips and city driving.
6. No real issues. It did use about 1/2 qt of oil last oil change.

I recently switched to Pennzoil Ultra Platinum 5/30. I also got their platinum oil filter. Anyone know the difference between platinum and Ultra Platinum?

But I read that entire "Oil University" thing and it got me thinking about a 0/30 oil.

D3A963E0-861D-4EA3-9F7C-0A37664039AA_zpsmvfawsul.jpg
 
Last edited:
Make sure you read the "new" motor oil university (ch 1-6) which was revised this year. Those are in the "technical and white paper" forum here. If you read the original MOU that is linked to the BITOG home page under "additional reading" (written by AE Haas) you will be reading a lot of incorrect and outdated information.

PQIA samples

PU has a stronger additive package than PP. A little more phos, zinc. A good dose of Boron. Lower noack. Since you're in Arkansas there's not a real need for anything lower than a 5w as you probably don't go below -10 deg F around there. 3K mile oil changes are easily handled by even average SN conventionals. Though since you can often buy synthetics like PP for $2.60/qt, there's not a huge price difference between say PYB and PP after mfg rebates.
 
In reality, using what your dad buys will work just fine
At your old school oil change interval's. You could always use 0w30 amsoil signature series oil or RedLine. Have you changed the coolant yet?
 
Last edited:
welcome2.gif


You have many options available for that engine.
Any SN Rated 5W30 (synthetic, synthetic blend or conventional) would serve you well.
The Pennzoil Ultra Platinum is a great oil and so is the Pennzoil Platinum.
Both are more than adequate for your 5.3 V8.
Personally I'd pick which ever full synthetic is easier to purchase and easier on the wallet.
Right now Napa has their house brand Dexos 5W30 synthetic on sale for $2.99 @ qt.
 
"Flow" in Oil U is a red herring. Your engine, like most cars and trucks has a positive displacement oil pump. As long as the oil is above its cold temp pumpability limit, it will "flow" just as fast throughout the engine. 0W, 5W, 10W makes no difference.

Full synthetic oils have some desirable properties such as good cleaning ability, high temp stability, etc. But, their biggest claim to fame is extended drain intervals. Not something you are doing. By extended drain, I mean 7,500 to 12,000 miles in most gas engines. Big Rigs already go 20,000 between changes.

SO you could probably install a good synthetic like Pennz Ultra and go one year between changes. That's what a lot of folks do. In your case, not needed. you have access to free or low cost changes. But even a decent syn-blend like the one your dad gets is good for 5,000 miles. So maybe twice a year for you ...

I seriously doubt 0W will mean anything in Arkansas. Yes in Canada and Alaska. Yes when starting at 20 below. But that is prolly not going to happen where you are. Most of the lower 48 got by just fine on 10W oils for decades and never blew up an engine.

That's a nice rig, I always enjoyed them off-road. Best insulation I ever ran into. In the desert you could barely feel the outside heat. And they do well enough in bad traction situations. Quiet and comfy inside with a great view. If you can feed it. it's a good rig to have.

Please get an owners manual. there are a lot of options on how to split the power between front and rear and other goodies that will come in handy. You should read it all the way through. Lotta info in there.

Most important is to keep a good air filter well seated and in place. Ingesting dirty air does way more damage to an engine than any oil choice among modern competent lubricants.

If you are going to Pennz Ultra say (made from natural gas, that's the difference), you should run a premium oil filter. I'd run an oversized one - you have the room. And change it once a year and drive on
smile.gif
 
LH8/LH9 were modified 5.3L to fit GMT345/GMT355 platforms ... for all intents and purposes - you can search other 5.3L threads. My LH9 is aluminum block/heads, block mounted camshaft with VVT, 6 bolt mains etc ... currently on Mobil 1 10w30.

The vehicle specific website are a good source of info too ...
 
Fram Ultra XG10575 is slightly larger ...
One more thing - when I did the diffs on my 2009 Hummer H3 - it was a bit sparkle prone at 20k - don't overlook gear oil and transfer case - they run tall gears in all models.
 
Last edited:
Finding the Pennzoil Ultra near the same price as PP is not often easy. And a lot of stores only carry the PP. Walmart currently has their PP at $24.97/jug. With the $10 rebate that's $2.99/qt too. The PU is listed at $38. You could have gotten either on sale last month for $19.97/jug. Considering you're only doing 3K oil changes I wouldn't spring for anything over $3.00/qt. Your Hummer probably won't last any longer on PU than PP. Mobil 1 has $12 rebates during the year too so that their net price is $2.17-$2.99/qt.

Since you have a short tripper car the 3K-4K OCI's make sense. But, I would get a quality synthetic filter ($6-$12) and use it for 2 oil changes. You will get better filtration on the second run as well as an easier oil change. Fram Ultra, M1 are good choices. There are others too like top of line NAPA/Wix, etc. During April-November you can also get by easily on 10w-30 PP/PU. And I think you'll have an easier time finding the PU 10w-30 on sale than the more popular grades.
 
Originally Posted By: 4WD
Fram Ultra XG10575 is slightly larger ...
One more thing - when I did the diffs on my 2009 Hummer H3 - it was a bit sparkle prone at 20k - don't overlook gear oil and transfer case - they run tall gears in all models.


Thanks for the info. Yeah I lucked out and got the one with a v8, f+r lockers, and 4:1 t case. I changed out the diff fluids, transmission, t case, and motor oil when I brought it home with 47k miles. We later changed the radiator fluid, and I recently changed the t case fluid again. 2 quarts of dexron VI every 20k miles is cheap insurance for a full time 4wd transfer case.

So I should stick with a good 5/30 full synthetic motor oil and a decent filter and I'll be good to go?

My dads shop uses Prime guard oil filters. They haven't had any issues out of them. But I know just like oil, people will have their opinions on what filter is the best etc.
 
Hey, an H3 Alpha configured like yours is rare and awesome and will hold value ... you are in a perfect position with the shop at your fingertips and are doing all the right stuff.

One of the first things to age a vehicle is the interior - there was a recent thread here on leather care - have a read ...
 
Dad knows more than any one here. Listen to your father. Syn oil is great for starting below 0*f and the Dr.Haas writings are mostly opinion, B.S. actually and disgrace this site.
 
Motor Oil university upgrades

I had the wrong forum. You'll find the latest MOU chapters in the "interesting articles" forum. Not the best place for them because most any one new will never run across them. It would be nice if they appeared at the top of the PCMO or General Board Information forums as a sticky. They would get read there.
 
+1 ... not sure what OP OCI plans were for the PP ... but most folks used to 3k do 5k minimum on good synthetic and move to 7k or 10k or ?
 
Originally Posted By: 4WD
Hey, an H3 Alpha configured like yours is rare and awesome and will hold value ... you are in a perfect position with the shop at your fingertips and are doing all the right stuff.

One of the first things to age a vehicle is the interior - there was a recent thread here on leather care - have a read ...

Yep. Mine is actually a special edition. Championship edition. Special silver metallic paint, black vinyl on hood, adventure package, v8, lockers, red painted brake calipers, and oem fender flares. Most came with cloth seats, but I've seen some with leather.

It's technically not an Alpha. But it does have the V8.

Just trying to take care of what I've got.

It is pretty much an Alpha with the adventure package (off road package). But without the luxury pkg. all the lux pkg is, is leather seats and monsoon sound system.
 
I ran 14k on Amsoil in my 5.3 and the UOA said to go longer. That 5w30 SS has got to be in the top 5. I idle the truck with the AC on for 30 minutes per day all summer. I also have a ranch and drive off road quite a bit.
 
Originally Posted By: umungus1122
If you're just doing 3k mile OCIs, keep doing what you've been doing.


Agree...Coastal is a solid oil too, so no worries there.

If you want to go synthetic, go to at least 5k in the change.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.

Similar threads

Gunnar#1
Pennzoil 0w-40 SRT oil question?
Replies
8
Views
764
OVERKILL
Ifixyawata
Frugal choice for 5k OCIs on 5.4 3v
2
Replies
26
Views
2K
FastLane
0
oil for 08' F 150 5.4L V8
Replies
7
Views
271
bdcardinal
C
What oil and filter for 2017 5.3L Sierra?
2 3
Replies
40
Views
3K
Triple_Se7en
C
Motorcraft synthetic blend vs full synthetic
Replies
7
Views
2K
Rinspeed
Back
Top