Mobil 1 EP 5W/30, 9,880 mi, 2006 6S Duratec 3.0L

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Originally Posted By: AirgunSavant
No need to go more than 10K as you suggest!

Agreed. Viscosity is on the low end so it would thicken soon and TBN is done.
 
IMO 12k is doable, since TBN depletion is not linear. It's of course up to you, but I might be inclined to run 11k as suggested by Blackstone, leaving it in while waiting results.
 
The oil level was down almost a quart. Except for a front main seal leaking at 90,000 miles this has been a great engine.

I have read that many of these V6 Duratecs die prematurely due to a fragile cooling system component (a plastic multiple-tee junction point for many cooling hoses). I hope to keep both of my Duratecs as long as possible so I've replaced that part on both vehicles.

Maybe I can go an additional ten years before having to buy another new car!
 
Well, if you top off the oil(1 qt. give or take a little) the TBN would jump up and so would the add pack. Then you could go 12,000 or more miles and change it once a year.

ROD
 
Originally Posted By: Avelectro
The oil level was down almost a quart. Except for a front main seal leaking at 90,000 miles this has been a great engine.

I have read that many of these V6 Duratecs die prematurely due to a fragile cooling system component (a plastic multiple-tee junction point for many cooling hoses). I hope to keep both of my Duratecs as long as possible so I've replaced that part on both vehicles.

Maybe I can go an additional ten years before having to buy another new car!


Fit a real good overheat alarm bell across the overheat warning light, as those lights are far too easy to miss!

As regards the UOA, it looks OK apart from the rather thin viscosity. Try moving up one SAE grade, or using a better base stock, like a GTL (Penn, Shell or the new M1) or even an expensive Synthoil.
 
Originally Posted By: LotI
Originally Posted By: AirgunSavant
No need to go more than 10K as you suggest!

Agreed. Viscosity is on the low end so it would thicken soon and TBN is done.


Agreed, it's right on the border of the top of the 20 range, not a big issue though, apart from as an OCI limiting factor.
 
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Originally Posted By: rrounds
Well, if you top off the oil(1 qt. give or take a little) the TBN would jump up and so would the add pack. Then you could go 12,000 or more miles and change it once a year.

ROD

I agree with that. I like to keep all my cars topped off. When they get half a quart low, I'm adding. OP's #s are even more impressive considering no top off - that EP is good stuff.
 
Originally Posted By: bigt61
Originally Posted By: rrounds
Well, if you top off the oil(1 qt. give or take a little) the TBN would jump up and so would the add pack. Then you could go 12,000 or more miles and change it once a year.

ROD

I agree with that. I like to keep all my cars topped off. When they get half a quart low, I'm adding. OP's #s are even more impressive considering no top off - that EP is good stuff.


Very correct, lots of cars and trucks that run out of oil have drivers that failed to keep their oil at the full mark.

This oil looks OK for 10K miles max IF the oil is topped up.
 
Unless I missed it does this engine actually spec 5w30? I thought the only Ford of that vintage that spec'ed 5w30 was the 4.0?
 
Originally Posted By: UltrafanUK
Originally Posted By: Avelectro
The oil level was down almost a quart. Except for a front main seal leaking at 90,000 miles this has been a great engine.

I have read that many of these V6 Duratecs die prematurely due to a fragile cooling system component (a plastic multiple-tee junction point for many cooling hoses). I hope to keep both of my Duratecs as long as possible so I've replaced that part on both vehicles.

Maybe I can go an additional ten years before having to buy another new car!


Fit a real good overheat alarm bell across the overheat warning light, as those lights are far too easy to miss!

As regards the UOA, it looks OK apart from the rather thin viscosity. Try moving up one SAE grade, or using a better base stock, like a GTL (Penn, Shell or the new M1) or even an expensive Synthoil.



Have you ever bought a car that the previous owner wired in a bunch of unnecessary garbage that caused you unnecessary problems later down the road? Rather than cheapening the car, he proactively replaced the part and should get much more use out of the vehicle. Additionally, he is already aware of the problem and is much less likely to monitor coolant temp and knows what burning antifreeze smells like and would stop operation.

That being said , 10k looks like a good fit for this engine. I had a 2.5 Jaguar Xtype with a 5 speed and I recall they had issues with coolant expansion tanks cracking and failing. Really brittle plastic Ford used.

Good report and keep motoring on.
 
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