Only the thick stuff in Denmark...

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Originally Posted By: HerrStig
How 'bout some pictures of the women?
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Originally Posted By: eljefino
Are those electronic, LCD price tags? What a crazy future we live in!


Kohls has been using them for a decade. Very useful for retailers such as Kohls that changes the price on items frequently due to sales. You'll notice them in the shoe section... .
 
Originally Posted By: HerrStig
How 'bout some pictures of the women?
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Forreal!! I wanna see some chickadees!!
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Originally Posted By: FordCapriDriver

Umm PU comes in Ultra and Ultra Platinum right? there is not Shell Helix Ultra Platinum so i would guess the regular Ultra would be the same? i don't know to be honest.


PU was replaced with PUP.
 
Originally Posted By: DriveHard
Spending a few days in Denmark and decided to drop by the local Bilka (their version of a walmart) to get some water and snacks. Dropped through the oil section. The THINNEST I could find was 5w-30, but about 95%+ of their complete selection was a 40 weight. Mobil 1 was the only brand I recognized as easily available in the states.




as a Dane. I can confirm that at bilka or other stores like it. Those viscositys are most common. But if you go to a parts store you can find both 0w-20, 5w-20 and 0w-30.

Hope you enjoy your stay here :)

Søren
 
But we can not deny that grades in 0w-xy and sae20 grades are not so common here in EU.

Sae20 is mostly used in auxiliary vehicles a.k.a hybrids
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Originally Posted By: HerrStig
How 'bout some pictures of the women?
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I've been to Denmark too....

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Originally Posted By: AirgunSavant
Yip 0w30
Originally Posted By: skyactiv
Look in the bottom right hand corner.

That looks to be their C3. If I'm not mistaken, the Pennzoil equivalent is available in Canada, oddly enough. It certainly won't be on a Walmart (or equivalent) shelf here, though.
 
Originally Posted By: edyvw
Yep, until 10 years ago 10W40 and 5W40 was all you could find, and sometimes 5W30.
Now it is mostly 0/5W30 and 0/5/10W40.


I thought that but M1 0w40 has been around for 16 years and a few other 0w oils for 20 years. One chap down under said that one old type of Castrol 0w40 had been for sale for over 20 years, BUT I bet it was just Mag 15w40 in a bogus can, as no one needs an 0w in a hot country.

Some early 0w oils were very shear prone and only rated A3/B3 and there is a specific warning in my TDI owners manual not to use an 0w40 unless it is an A3/B4.
 
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Originally Posted By: skyactiv
Look in the bottom right hand corner.


Yep it's an 0w30, BUT be careful as some 0w Ultra oils are C3 rated for DPF afflicted diesels. Very bad news in wear terms if you use them in a non DPF job unless you use an expensive German additive that has both extra Moly (Not needed as Ultra has enough) and Boron Nitride in hexagonal form every OCI.
Oddly enough BN which is a ceramic additive will allow the use of Zinc free oils like what Mag make for the DPF long life fans.
 
Originally Posted By: UltrafanUK
Originally Posted By: skyactiv
Look in the bottom right hand corner.


Yep it's an 0w30, BUT be careful as some 0w Ultra oils are C3 rated for DPF afflicted diesels. Very bad news in wear terms if you use them in a non DPF job unless you use an expensive German additive that has both extra Moly (Not needed as Ultra has enough) and Boron Nitride in hexagonal form every OCI.
Oddly enough BN which is a ceramic additive will allow the use of Zinc free oils like what Mag make for the DPF long life fans.

I think you have a strange sense of humour, because even you can't be serious when claiming that a C3 oil will cause damage to a non DPF engines without adding Ceratec . Do you realise that a whole lot of petrol cars are specified for C3 oils, for years now?
Or that C3/4 oils have stricter requirements to pass than A3/B4 oils?

Don't get me wrong, I prefer full SAPS over Cx stuff for my SUBJECTIVE reasons, and love anecdotes about how A3/B4 kick arse , but please, leave the chemistry to the people that are qualified for making oils in the first place.
Cheers
 
Originally Posted By: UltrafanUK


I thought that but M1 0w40 has been around for 16 years and a few other 0w oils for 20 years. One chap down under said that one old type of Castrol 0w40 had been for sale for over 20 years, BUT I bet it was just Mag 15w40 in a bogus can, as no one needs an 0w in a hot country.


That was me, and yes Castrol Edge / Formula R 0W-40 has been sold in Australia for 20 years. Previous to that, early 90's, it was Castrol TXT 10W-40.

Castrol has always been very particular about making sure their specs on their bottles are correct. You could also get Castrol Edge / Formula R 10W-60 if you wanted a heavier oil.

They were all commonly avaliable and sold well. Yes, you don't need a 0W oil in Australia, but if your MB or BMW owners manual said to use it, and it was one of the few oils that carried the correct OEM specs, then their was an obvious market for it.
 
Originally Posted By: UltrafanUK
Originally Posted By: skyactiv
Look in the bottom right hand corner.


Yep it's an 0w30, BUT be careful as some 0w Ultra oils are C3 rated for DPF afflicted diesels. Very bad news in wear terms if you use them in a non DPF job unless you use an expensive German additive that has both extra Moly (Not needed as Ultra has enough) and Boron Nitride in hexagonal form every OCI.
Oddly enough BN which is a ceramic additive will allow the use of Zinc free oils like what Mag make for the DPF long life fans.


Where do you make this stuff up from? There is no issue with C3 oils and wear.

since when was Boron Nitride used in engine oils?
 
Originally Posted By: UltrafanUK
Originally Posted By: edyvw
Yep, until 10 years ago 10W40 and 5W40 was all you could find, and sometimes 5W30.
Now it is mostly 0/5W30 and 0/5/10W40.


I thought that but M1 0w40 has been around for 16 years and a few other 0w oils for 20 years. One chap down under said that one old type of Castrol 0w40 had been for sale for over 20 years, BUT I bet it was just Mag 15w40 in a bogus can, as no one needs an 0w in a hot country.

Some early 0w oils were very shear prone and only rated A3/B3 and there is a specific warning in my TDI owners manual not to use an 0w40 unless it is an A3/B4.

Well yeah, you had Valvoline 0W40 like in 1997 available. But 5W40 and 10W40 were go to oils.
 
I've tested C3 oils (Castrol Edge TD 5w40 etc) and they double the wear metals in a TDI UOA.
Some manufacturers including Castrol claim a C3 oil is backwards compatible with A3/B4, which is total rubbish unless the oil has Moly, Boron AND Titanium, which some expensive FS oils do, including the most expensive Edge 0w40.
If you read the Acea specs there is a specific warning about both C2 and C3 oils which Castrol and some OEM's ignore.

Not heard of an Acea C4 spec as backwards compatible yet, but at present the best Acea specs are A3/B4 if you are DPF free. Some folks think the E spec oils are better, but that's another adversiting myth, although they are closer than the C specs.

PS: C4 has even lower ash than C2/C3, so unless the oil has a GTL or Synthoil base, I would not use it. The Ti oils that have a real G4 or GTL base are rather too expensive.

I do look at an oils VOA, but no one seems to publish chemical compositions, so I just work in the real world of ultimate block life lubrication. In that world C2 and C3 are such a bad joke that one school of thought says don't use them as the resulting extra wear factors visible in a particle count will increase the oil consumption in the long term enough to outweigh the advantages of low ash. I'm in the probably does not matter unless you use an HDEO with higher Zinc-Phos levels in an attempt to find out how expensive a new DPF or CAT is.
 
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Originally Posted By: bobbydavro
Originally Posted By: UltrafanUK


Where do you make this stuff up from?


I'm guessing it's from a child seat inside a Twingo.
 
Originally Posted By: UltrafanUK
I've tested C3 oils (Castrol Edge TD 5w40 etc) and they double the wear metals in a TDI UOA.

What 'test'? Bench test? Dyno-driven engine test? Or single data point, no reference, uncontrolled external factors kind of test?

Originally Posted By: UltrafanUK
Some manufacturers...

Which?

Originally Posted By: UltrafanUK
...including Castrol...

Where?

Originally Posted By: UltrafanUK
...claim a C3 oil is backwards compatible with A3/B4, which is total rubbish unless the oil has Moly, Boron AND Titanium, which some expensive FS oils do, including the most expensive Edge 0w40.
If you read the Acea specs there is a specific warning about both C2 and C3 oils which Castrol and some OEM's ignore.

The "warning" regarding the 'C' category oils is this:

Originally Posted By: ACEA 2016 oil sequence
Some of these Categories may be unsuitable for use in certain Engine Types – consult the vehicle-OEM’s owner’s manual/handbook in case of doubt.

But they also say this...

Originally Posted By: ACEA again
These Oils will increase the DPF/GPF and TWC life and maintain the Vehicle’s Fuel Economy.


Originally Posted By: UltrafanUK
...at present the best Acea specs are A3/B4 if you are DPF free. Some folks think the E spec oils are better, but that's another adversiting myth, although they are closer than the C specs.

The 'best' ACEA oils are those that meet your vehicles needs. You might argue that an engine wanting ACEA A5/B5 would be best served by an A5/B5 oil, rather than getting bogged down by an A3/B4 oil. And who is "advertising" that E oils are "better"? Those oils are for trucks and busses and are specified appropriately.

Originally Posted By: UltrafanUK
PS: C4 has even lower ash than C2/C3, so unless the oil has a GTL or Synthoil base, I would not use it. The Ti oils that have a real G4 or GTL base are rather too expensive.

How many oils have you actually formulated? You seem to be randomly picking base oils or chemical elements and holding them up as the solution to perceived 'poor' specifications. The whole reason there are several specs to choose from, is because there is no one-size-fits-all solution. The wear requirements of ACEA C2 and C3 (and now C5) are actually tougher than for ACEA A3/B4 (note also that ACEA A5/B5 wear limits are the same as the C categories, ie tougher limits than A3/B4).

Originally Posted By: UltrafanUK
I do look at an oils VOA, but no one seems to publish chemical compositions, so I just work in the real world of ultimate block life lubrication. In that world C2 and C3 are such a bad joke that one school of thought says don't use them as the resulting extra wear factors visible in a particle count will increase the oil consumption in the long term enough to outweigh the advantages of low ash. I'm in the probably does not matter unless you use an HDEO with higher Zinc-Phos levels in an attempt to find out how expensive a new DPF or CAT is.

So all those millions of VW/Audi/Skoda/SEATs, BMWs, MBs, Fords and myriad other cars running around on mid-SAPS oils with no problems have all got lucky? How are C2 and C3 such a "bad joke" in the real world, given that the oils that meet them have to pass tougher testing than your revered A3/B4?

I'm not saying A3/B4 is bad, far from it, but it isn't a universal panacea.
 
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