02 Golf TDI, 185k on motor, 5200 mi on Rotella T6

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Yep the oil has thickened and the Iron is a tad high.

I would cut the OCI to 3000 miles and make sure the block is not sludged up. The increased viscosity has nothing to do with the injectors.
 
Use apropriate VW 505.01 or VW 507 oil otherwise....

https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/3851944/294k_KM_on_2006_TDI_(BEW)..._s#Post3851944_________________________
 
Originally Posted By: Kamele0N
Use apropriate VW 505.01 or VW 507 oil otherwise....

https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/3851944/294k_KM_on_2006_TDI_(BEW)..._s#Post3851944_________________________


This isn't a PD motor, its the earlier ALH, no crazy specific oil needed for this as long as its diesel rated.
 
Originally Posted By: UltrafanUK
Yep the oil has thickened and the Iron is a tad high.

I would cut the OCI to 3000 miles and make sure the block is not sludged up. The increased viscosity has nothing to do with the injectors.


The block seemed pretty clean, just had the oil pan off when resealing it at 180k. My interval has been 5k since i bought it at 150k.
 
Ive been looking into this all night, going to start there tomorrow. We are heavily sooting out the tailpipe since the injectors, they're the .216 nozzles. Even though I cleaned the manifold at 150k, Im wondering if its starting to clog already.
 
Originally Posted By: 2004tdigls
delete the egr(if you have not already) diesel egr dumps huge amounts of soot into the oil( which increases wear)

you can try the vag com mod

http://www.ross-tech.com/vag-com/cars/tdi.html

or purchase an ecu flash



Don't delete the EGR as it's an anti social act that often invalidates the hull loss part of an insurance policy if it is not declared as an engine mod. In some states and the EU removing emissions gear is a criminal act and even partly invalidating an insurance policy makes you liable for an accident even if it was not your fault. The main get out clause used is that the vehicle was not described correctly in the application or renewal.

It will make no difference to the Fe per mile number. I would first of all check the oil pressure and temperature are correct, as the other wear metals were OK and oneof the few parts that causes Fe only to increase when worn is the oil pump. Driver style also makes a big difference and can double the figures, but that seems less likely.
If you see an upwards trend in the next UOA, try half a can of Liqui Moly Ceratec every OCI and just do an oil only dump every 3000 miles with the filter included every 9K.

If you read the silly link it starts by saying we are not responsible for any problems that arrise from following their instructions. Removing an EGR often results in a check engine light and confuses the ECU in warm up terms, often resulting in worse UOA results due to a longer warm up time, as the EGR can't heat up the incoming air.

SOOT in the oil does not cause extra wear as Carbon is a fairly good lubricant, all it does is slightly reduce the OCI limits, although that is allowed for in the OEM max recommended limit. Do make sure that the intake and EGR are cleaned every cam belt service interval, otherwise it can start to cause a post shutdown run on for a few seconds (Fouled intake) or lag when booted (Blocked EGR).
 
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Originally Posted By: 2004tdigls
at least do the vag com mod, this will drastically slow down the egr clogging

and ask for help here, a wealth of information:

http://www.tdiclub.com/


Im going to code it today, do you know a good median number to input so I don't get a check engine but reduce some of the EGR?
 
Special adaptations: Login code 12233:

These procedures do NOT apply to the PD engines, which use a completely different type of EGR system and for which there is no known modification. !

To perform the following adaptations (except idle) you need to use the Login function.
Enter 12233 as a Login code.
Misuse of some of the adaptations can lead to engine failure.
This is done at your own risk!
Note that the EGR setting is for off-road use only...

[Select]
[01 - Engine]
[Login - 11]
Enter 12233 to activate special adaptations,
[Do It!]

[Adaptation - 10]
Enter the "channel number" below to select each channel.
Put in the suggested value(s) in "new value".
[Test]
Observe the "test value" field to make sure the adaptation setting is acceptable.
[Save]

Channel 1: injected quantity

Check the injected quantity at idle, engine warm and all power consuming devices turned off.
Specification is 2.5 to 9 mg/h.
To change the amount of injected fuel perceived by the ECU, go to adaptation channel 1.
If you have driveability problems, you may want to increase it to 3-4 mg/h.
For slightly improved throttle response, you may try to decrease the value.

Channel 2: idle speed

No login required
The stock adaptation value should be 32768 (corresponds to 903 rpm).
Increase or decrease this to change idle speed.

Channel 3: EGR

To decrease the EGR rate, increase the number to the highest possible value (typically 33768).
This will prevent/slow down the intake manifold clogging problem and reduce smoke.
Though the MAF at idle is still within specifications (370 mg/h) do not use this adaptation on the road :)
Again, this EGR setting is for off-road use only !
 
Originally Posted By: UltrafanUK
Originally Posted By: 2004tdigls
delete the egr(if you have not already) diesel egr dumps huge amounts of soot into the oil( which increases wear)

you can try the vag com mod

http://www.ross-tech.com/vag-com/cars/tdi.html

or purchase an ecu flash



Don't delete the EGR as it's an anti social act that often invalidates the hull loss part of an insurance policy if it is not declared as an engine mod. In some states and the EU removing emissions gear is a criminal act and even partly invalidating an insurance policy makes you liable for an accident even if it was not your fault. The main get out clause used is that the vehicle was not described correctly in the application or renewal.

It will make no difference to the Fe per mile number. I would first of all check the oil pressure and temperature are correct, as the other wear metals were OK and oneof the few parts that causes Fe only to increase when worn is the oil pump. Driver style also makes a big difference and can double the figures, but that seems less likely.
If you see an upwards trend in the next UOA, try half a can of Liqui Moly Ceratec every OCI and just do an oil only dump every 3000 miles with the filter included every 9K.

If you read the silly link it starts by saying we are not responsible for any problems that arrise from following their instructions. Removing an EGR often results in a check engine light and confuses the ECU in warm up terms, often resulting in worse UOA results due to a longer warm up time, as the EGR can't heat up the incoming air.

SOOT in the oil does not cause extra wear as Carbon is a fairly good lubricant, all it does is slightly reduce the OCI limits, although that is allowed for in the OEM max recommended limit. Do make sure that the intake and EGR are cleaned every cam belt service interval, otherwise it can start to cause a post shutdown run on for a few seconds (Fouled intake) or lag when booted (Blocked EGR).


simply NOT TRUE, this paper proves otherwise.

http://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S1110016812000907

Increased soot level causes considerable increase in the carbon deposits and wear of the various vital engine parts such as cylinder liner, piston rings, valve train and bearings. Wear of the materials also increase due to chemical reactions taking place on the surface (adsorption and corrosion) or due to abrasion of material or rupture of anti-wear film by soot.
 
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Thanks for the help 04tdi, I knocked the egr down and its amazing how little soot comes out the tailpipe now. Feels peppier too! Im going to resample in 5k and see how things look.
 
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That's an old paper and refers to only one type of EGR and engine. The reason the results are bad are that the oil used lacked enough detergents in comparison with the OCI.

Oddly enough you can get more wear from not cleaning the intake of general dirt than not cleaning the EGR!
 
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Good to hear that! So it seems you were driving around with the EGR stuck open all the time. That will foul it up and prevent it from burning clean.

I would advise folks to be careful changing the MAP in some engines and it's best to get a dealer or good tuning company to do it. If you make a mistake with a file address it can easily cause a limp mode fault or even start up failure.
Some MAP fiddles can save fuel during warm up, but they relate to the injectors and may not be OK in insurance terms as the engine tends to stall if you lift off the gas during warm up. I've got such a MAP tune of my TDI, BUT I turned it off for the TUV inspection and do have it listed as an engine MOD.
 
Things are probably much less stringent here in NJ, all they do is scan for CEL and check to make sure you have a catalyst installed. Thats about it. I have been noticing a slightly quicker warm up, is this possible with less egr? Im assuming from the higher combustion temps from the lean mixture?
 
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