Does a LUG TORQUE "check" do more WORSE than good?

[SumpChump]

So when torquing something the fastener must be moving to be creating the measurable stretch which is torque. That's a given.

So wouldnt doing an (xx miles after install) torque check at the same torque setting as at install actually be overtightening the lug nuts because they will have to move a bit before the wrench registers the torque and clicks? Essentiall making torque checks useless at best and damaging at worst?

If so, then is it best to loosen the lugs a tad and torque again as a "torque check"? (Which would in theory then create an infinity loop of "comeback for a torque check in 50miled")

Or rather, just use a setting perhaps 10% beneath initial torque and apply the torque check to the still tightened lug nuts?

 

[RooflessVW]

No. If your fastener is torqued properly to, let's say 120N.m, setting a torque wrench to 120N.m and checking torque again will not cause the fastener to over torque.

Just as torquing a fastener to 120N.m, setting the wrench to 60N.m, and checking torque will not over torque the fastener.

 

[Hokiefyd]

Originally Posted By: SumpChump
So when torquing something the fastener must be moving to be creating the measurable stretch which is torque. That's a given.


The "breakaway" torque will be higher than the "moving" torque of a spinning fastener. Because of this, you will not over-torque the fastener doing a static torque check. If you do a torque check and your torque wrench clicks before the lug nuts move, then they're probably as tight as they should be. Technically, you would get a more accurate reading if the fastener was spinning, yes. If your lug nuts move before the torque wrench clicks, then they probably were not as tight as they should have been, or other factors have worked to reduce their clamping load (temperature changes, expansion of metal, etc).

 

[Kestas]

A proper torque check involves loosening the fastener a bit, then tightening it to spec.

In reality, I believe a lot of people simply try to torque the fastener to spec as is. It's a check to make sure the fastener isn't horribly loosened. These checks won't over-tighten the fastener.

 

[Alex_V]

Yes, if done properly the 50 or 100-mile re-torque shouldn't tighten any lugs that are already to spec, only check for any that have loostened.

 

[exranger06]

Even if it did tighten the fastener a little more, it's only going to tighten it an extra foot pound or so, which is not going to hurt anything. It's not like you just added an additional 100 ft lbs or anything.

 

[CapriRacer]

I'm going to slightly disagree with my fellow BITOGers. My experience is that when using a clicker type torque wrench, it sometimes causes the lug nut to twist a bit more AFTER the wrench clicks. This is due to the momentum of the handle. I do NOT think this is important, nor does it dangerously overtighten the lug nut - but being the pedantic that I am, I feel obligated to point this out.

 

[RooflessVW]

Originally Posted By: Kestas
A proper torque check involves loosening the fastener a bit, then tightening it to spec.


In what world? You just described a re-torque, not a torque check.

 

[mk378]

Yes "checking the torque" is to apply force only in the tightening direction, to confirm the nut is at least as tight as the specification.

 

[HerrStig]

Originally Posted By: SumpChump
So when torquing something the fastener must be moving to be creating the measurable stretch which is torque. That's a given.

So wouldnt doing an (xx miles after install) torque check at the same torque setting as at install actually be overtightening the lug nuts because they will have to move a bit before the wrench registers the torque and clicks? Essentiall making torque checks useless at best and damaging at worst?

If so, then is it best to loosen the lugs a tad and torque again as a "torque check"? (Which would in theory then create an infinity loop of "comeback for a torque check in 50miled")

Or rather, just use a setting perhaps 10% beneath initial torque and apply the torque check to the still tightened lug nuts?

Do you mean do more "HARM"?

 

[ARCOgraphite]

A lug bolt may have recently been torqued to 100 lb-ft though the non-breakaway torque could read FALSELY 10% higher during a check without inducing breakaway. Note that lug nuts are unique in that they are not lubed on the head underside( or SHOULDNT BE!) and there is "plastic" metal capturing the cone of the nut or bolt underside braking the bolt head and preventing loosening. (on steel wheels).

All of this is overthinking. Just check the torque to spec if one or more lugs is loose on a front disck brak hat axle. loosen ALL lugs somewhat under breakaway threshold then torque all. Only this way will the torque be equalized.

Or if your "lazy" and you think you have robust, flat wheel hub mounting surfaces, just bring up the loose nuts to spec and go in the house sit down and have a beer or two. Likely no warm here on non fussy cars and trucks. Some cars are just waiting to give you grief it seams.

 

[Artem]

This thread reminded me of this scene from F&F.

Fast and Furious Youtube Link

 

[Artem]

Originally Posted By: rooflessVW
Originally Posted By: Kestas
A proper torque check involves loosening the fastener a bit, then tightening it to spec.


In what world? You just described a re-torque, not a torque check.


I agree, I think people are mixing up torque check (applying the same 90 f/lb torque to check that the lugs didn't loosen since the last time you applied 90 pounds) vs a re-torque where say the shop tightened things to 100LB but the manual says to do 90, so you came home and are "re-torquing" to proper spec, which would require loosening the lug nuts a bit and torquing to proper spec.

I usually run through my lugs the next day to make sure the wrench still clicks @ the desired spec without adding more torque to insure that the lug nuts didn't move.

 

[Yah-Tah-Hey]

NO

 

[AlanColorado]

This topic brings up a question I have. Can you use a reversible click type wrench to check torque? If so will the breakaway torque be higher than the tightening torque? I would think that to be true. Not checking if nut are too loose, want to see if they are overtightened.

Asking because I want to check the lug nut torque after dealer does a tire rotation. I have a new Colorado that will be going to the dealer for at least the first few services. My wife uses the same dealer for all the service on her Trailblazer. We had a flat on the TB and called AAA out to change it. The poor tow truck driver spent almost an hour on that job. Almost gave up and loaded us on the truck because he couldn't break the nuts loose. Gave it one last try after a rest and finally got them all loose.

 

[Bgallagher]

Originally Posted By: AlanColorado
This topic brings up a question I have. Can you use a reversible click type wrench to check torque? If so will the breakaway torque be higher than the tightening torque? I would think that to be true. Not checking if nut are too loose, want to see if they are overtightened.

Asking because I want to check the lug nut torque after dealer does a tire rotation. I have a new Colorado that will be going to the dealer for at least the first few services. My wife uses the same dealer for all the service on her Trailblazer. We had a flat on the TB and called AAA out to change it. The poor tow truck driver spent almost an hour on that job. Almost gave up and loaded us on the truck because he couldn't break the nuts loose. Gave it one last try after a rest and finally got them all loose.


Not surprised. Most technicians will rotate the tires and zip the lugs back on with the impact and call it a day. Probably 200 ft.lbs or torque on each lug. Very common. The dealership I go to for my GMC uses a torque stick and does the final torque with a clicker style when the tires on the ground. Granted who knows if the torque wrench is accurate anymore considering the amount of use it probably gets but if they are willing to do it correctly I trust that the place is on the up and up.

 

[Rand]

Originally Posted By: SumpChump
So when torquing something the fastener must be moving to be creating the measurable stretch which is torque. That's a given.

So wouldnt doing an (xx miles after install) torque check at the same torque setting as at install actually be overtightening the lug nuts because they will have to move a bit before the wrench registers the torque and clicks? Essentiall making torque checks useless at best and damaging at worst?

If so, then is it best to loosen the lugs a tad and torque again as a "torque check"? (Which would in theory then create an infinity loop of "comeback for a torque check in 50miled")

Or rather, just use a setting perhaps 10% beneath initial torque and apply the torque check to the still tightened lug nuts?



your whole basic premise is wrong. Start again.

After going 50-100miles the torque required to move the fastener will be more than initially torqued to.
and yes you should always check it..otherwise how would you know if it loosened up due to a couple rust flakes stuck between wheel etc.


Discount tire uses a low torque impact setting to put them back on then final tightens with a torque wrench at your spec.

Which reminds me I need to check lugnut torque been kind of lazy since the winters are going on soon.

Just wanted to get the new
Continental ControlContact Tour AS broken in to make sure there were no issues. So far they are better in every way than the defenders except dry traction and that is increasing with miles.

The roads are bad here. I think I might have lost one segment of a sticky weight.
had my premiers rebalanced.. helped a tiny bit

 

[demarpaint]

Originally Posted By: exranger06
Even if it did tighten the fastener a little more, it's only going to tighten it an extra foot pound or so, which is not going to hurt anything. It's not like you just added an additional 100 ft lbs or anything.


That's sounds about right. Anytime I rechecked lug nut torque if the wrench moved a hair before clicking it was a lot. A pound or two sounds about right, I wouldn't sweat it.