2010 Optima engine failure. 115k

Status
Not open for further replies.
Joined
Oct 21, 2013
Messages
81
Location
Southern Ohio
So here is the story. Bought a certified used 2010 optima from a Kia dealer. Car had 20,000 miles when I bought it.Always faithful on my oil changes. Usually using Dino, 4K intervals. Usually 5w20 , maybe 2-3 of 5w30 when Autozone had the nextgen valvoline on clearance. The pics below are of the filter cut open about 1k into an oil change. Started having a knock on deceleration, so I thought maybe filter restricting flow. Swapped a new red purolator on and the noise was back in 2 days. Cut the old filter open and you can see the fairy dust from hades in the oil. Maybe could have done crank/main bearings and unloaded it, but I think Karma is a mean mistress. Instead I bought a used engine w 60k on it and swapped it out myself. I was not happy. Anyway, thought I would share. Btw last oil change was cheap O'reilly Dino and their house filter. Makes me wonder if that may have been the culprit. (I doubt it)bottom pic is of a coffee filter I poured the oil out of the filter through and let sit a few days. Engine is the 2.4 DOHC 4 cyl.
Have a good day everyone!
 
Last edited:
I doubt it was the oil and more likely you got a defective bunch of Korean engineering. Hopefully that new engine lasts you a while.
 
Didn't they have trouble with cleaning of the blocks at the factory? I know they changed their block cleaning process, and extended their warranty for several year model.
 
Yeah, Kia/Hyundai had issues and extended the warranty, 2011-2013, only on 2.4 from the Alabama plant. My 2010 was not covered.it wasn't the block cleaning from my understanding. It was the crank polishing. Went from mechanical to hydro. Go figure
 
I seen similar shavings after a gm engine grenaded on me. Did your engine seize up completely?
 
Originally Posted By: Run
I seen similar shavings after a gm engine grenaded on me. Did your engine seize up completely?

No,I didn't let it go any further. I read horror stories online of the engines seizing w no warning in the highway. Didn't want to take that chance.
 
Sorry to hear that. I'm sure the 20wt oil caused this (bad attempt at a joke).

Are you going to open up the old engine to find the cause?
 
Stories like yours is why I would wait at least another 5-10 years to see the long term reliability of Hyundai/KIA before I'd consider buying one. They seem like decent cars. They just don't have a long enough track record.
 
Originally Posted By: JHZR2
Sorry to hear that. I'm sure the 20wt oil caused this (bad attempt at a joke).


no, can't be that. we are told there are no engine failures on 20 weight oils.
but seriously, i myself use 0W20 in my daily commuter toyota with light duty cycle (mostly suburbs driving). I would use something heavier for high speed hwy driving though.
 
Bummer. KIA has come a long way, but maybe not so much with engines. I recall around 2002-3 they were selling their smallest car for 13k, and you'd get another one for a dollar - which went along with their under 20k mile engine failures with NO warranty coverage.
 
One engine failure does not mean Kia is junk.

My great-aunt has a 2006 Hyundai Sonata 2.4L. 150k miles and it has been fantastic. It runs and drives great. The only problem it has had is a power steering hose leak this year.
 
I have never heard of or believe using any particular brand of oil or filter will cause engine failure. It likely is a freak, unexplained part failure.
 
I remember the first car dealership I worked at in 2001 was a Kia dealer, failed engines and bad transmissions happened, more often than I thought. I know they came a long way, and have a pretty good rep now, but seeing these pics stirs up some memories.
 
My parents have a 2010 sonata, it's the same car under the hood as mine. Has 123k on it and zero issues, I'm not saying they are junk or bashing 5w20 or any oil. Just thought it may be a thread others want to see. Dad is not crazy about OCI and I bet their sonata has had several 7500+ OCI. 7500 is the recommendation btw in my manual, I wonder if going to 7500 on mine every OC would have caused the failure sooner (again, I doubt it).On the bright side the engine swap was pretty easy(except for the $1,400). Had it out and on the ground in 4hrs by myself and parts swapped over and back in the car in 3 hrs. Straight forward out of the hood pull if anyone else is wondering. I couldn't find much online when I did it. Anyone has any ?s about it just ask I'm glad to share what I can

 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top