Just an observation. I noticed alotta guys on here are afraid to try 5W-30 when their cap says 0W-20.
5W-30 is the new THICK oil
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Just change the cap then.
Originally Posted By: Merkava_4
Just an observation. I noticed alotta guys on here are afraid to try 5W-30 when their cap says 0W-20.
Just like there are people who are "afraid" or reluctant to use a 0W-20 or 5W-20 motor oil when the oil cap and manual say to do so.
Just an observation. I noticed alotta guys on here are afraid to try 5W-30 when their cap says 0W-20.
Just like there are people who are "afraid" or reluctant to use a 0W-20 or 5W-20 motor oil when the oil cap and manual say to do so.
What would 5w30 do better than 0w20, besides nothing. Pointless thread.
PS. How about doing the opposite like I just did, oil cap says 5w30 and I just filled with 0w20!!
Try it Merk
PS. How about doing the opposite like I just did, oil cap says 5w30 and I just filled with 0w20!!
Try it Merk
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Probably cause lotta guys have WARRANTY on their vehicles requiring 0w20. Ever think of that? Didn't think so
Another useless Merkava post
Another useless Merkava post
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Haha one day in the future,people will be like,"People back in the 2000's actually put OIL in their engines? Omg,how's it ever crank over with ooey gooey oil in it??". The viscosity of the future,nothingW-nothing. It'll be air,with varying degrees of humidity. 20W-50 of the future will be a humid air viscosity and 0W-20 will be dry air viscosity. Lucas in the future will be a type of humidifier.
Originally Posted By: Tony10s
Originally Posted By: Merkava_4
Just an observation. I noticed alotta guys on here are afraid to try 5W-30 when their cap says 0W-20.
Just like there are people who are "afraid" or reluctant to use a 0W-20 or 5W-20 motor oil when the oil cap and manual say to do so.
I'm "afraid" to use the 5W-20 my oil cap says to. What do bean counters know about maximizing engine life? Sticking with 5w-30 that the engineer's originally specced for my 2002 4.6L. What's to lose by not sticking with recommended 5w-20 printed on the oil fill cap? Probably a significant amount of future engine life. My last 4.6L got me 230K miles...on 5w-30...the specced oil for that '97 4.6L. These engines could probably survive ok on a diet of 0/5w-15 too....doesn't mean it's optimum though.
Bean counter or engineer? I'll side with the engineers on this one.
Originally Posted By: Merkava_4
Just an observation. I noticed alotta guys on here are afraid to try 5W-30 when their cap says 0W-20.
Just like there are people who are "afraid" or reluctant to use a 0W-20 or 5W-20 motor oil when the oil cap and manual say to do so.
I'm "afraid" to use the 5W-20 my oil cap says to. What do bean counters know about maximizing engine life? Sticking with 5w-30 that the engineer's originally specced for my 2002 4.6L. What's to lose by not sticking with recommended 5w-20 printed on the oil fill cap? Probably a significant amount of future engine life. My last 4.6L got me 230K miles...on 5w-30...the specced oil for that '97 4.6L. These engines could probably survive ok on a diet of 0/5w-15 too....doesn't mean it's optimum though.
Bean counter or engineer? I'll side with the engineers on this one.
Originally Posted By: Merkava_4
Just an observation. I noticed alotta guys on here are afraid to try 5W-30 when their cap says 0W-20.
Irrational fear is a strange thing. There was once a guy on here that had an irrational fear of chem trails and another guy on here that had a bizarre phobia of going through things .
Just an observation. I noticed alotta guys on here are afraid to try 5W-30 when their cap says 0W-20.
Irrational fear is a strange thing. There was once a guy on here that had an irrational fear of chem trails and another guy on here that had a bizarre phobia of going through things .
Originally Posted By: Pop_Rivit
Originally Posted By: Merkava_4
Just an observation. I noticed alotta guys on here are afraid to try 5W-30 when their cap says 0W-20.
Irrational fear is a strange thing. There was once a guy on here that had an irrational fear of chem trails and another guy on here that had a bizarre phobia of going through things .
LOL
Originally Posted By: Merkava_4
Just an observation. I noticed alotta guys on here are afraid to try 5W-30 when their cap says 0W-20.
Irrational fear is a strange thing. There was once a guy on here that had an irrational fear of chem trails and another guy on here that had a bizarre phobia of going through things .
LOL
The 6.2L Corvette has a 5W30 oil fill cap, but on race days 15W50 is recommended.
Put the same engine in a max-trailer 7,600 lb. GVW 1500 pulling a 12,000 lb. trailer up a mountain pass on a hot day, and all you need is 0w20, according to the cap.
Cut 2 cylinders off the front and make it a 4.3L V6, and the 5W30 oil fill cap from the Corvette goes on that engine.
Put the same engine in a max-trailer 7,600 lb. GVW 1500 pulling a 12,000 lb. trailer up a mountain pass on a hot day, and all you need is 0w20, according to the cap.
Cut 2 cylinders off the front and make it a 4.3L V6, and the 5W30 oil fill cap from the Corvette goes on that engine.
Originally Posted By: Rolla07
What would 5w30 do better than 0w20, besides nothing. Pointless thread.
PS. How about doing the opposite like I just did, oil cap says 5w30 and I just filled with 0w20!!
Try it Merk
Never happen in my yard. Nothing under a 100,000 and at that mileage you don't go thinner ...
All my caps just say OIL, or the have a little OIL Drop symbol. None gives the grade required
What would 5w30 do better than 0w20, besides nothing. Pointless thread.
PS. How about doing the opposite like I just did, oil cap says 5w30 and I just filled with 0w20!!
Try it Merk
Never happen in my yard. Nothing under a 100,000 and at that mileage you don't go thinner ...
All my caps just say OIL, or the have a little OIL Drop symbol. None gives the grade required
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This thread is going to be interesting
I'm sorta leaning this way now. They recommend 5W-30 up to 20C for my Volvo, but 10W-30 up to 38C, I run a 40 weight as most seem to on volvo forums. Castrol Edge is as thick, or thicker than a dino 10W-30 at 100C, so I'm thinking it'll do better than a 10W-30 in my temp zone. 5W-30 on my next oil change.
Originally Posted By: car51
Another useless Merkava post
Merk's posts are never useless. He is one of BITOG's greatest oil satirist. In this case its a fair point. 5w-30 is becoming the new thick oil. Years ago it was considered to be too thin and no one trusted it. If the cap said 5w-30 lots of people were taken aback and thought no way, thats way too thin. I'll stick with 10w-30 or 10w-40. So yes, it is now the thick oil. Some people see the 0w-20 and say no way, its too thin, i'll stick with 5w-30. See how things come around? lol
Another useless Merkava post
Merk's posts are never useless. He is one of BITOG's greatest oil satirist. In this case its a fair point. 5w-30 is becoming the new thick oil. Years ago it was considered to be too thin and no one trusted it. If the cap said 5w-30 lots of people were taken aback and thought no way, thats way too thin. I'll stick with 10w-30 or 10w-40. So yes, it is now the thick oil. Some people see the 0w-20 and say no way, its too thin, i'll stick with 5w-30. See how things come around? lol
We can't have cars & pick-up trucks lasting a million miles, so thin oil and sealed suspension components that cannot be serviced is the new norm.
Let's see how all this thin oil rage plays out when Donny cancels NOACK tax credits and shoos all the self-interest groups out of Washington.
This otta kick start Merk's thread.
Let's see how all this thin oil rage plays out when Donny cancels NOACK tax credits and shoos all the self-interest groups out of Washington.
This otta kick start Merk's thread.
Originally Posted By: userfriendly
We can't have cars & pick-up trucks lasting a million miles, so thin oil and sealed suspension components that cannot be serviced is the new norm.
Cars and trucks are lasting longer and longer. Thin oil isn't killing them and yet many late model cars can go over 300k now with little more than maintenance. Old cars couldn't do that and they were using thicker oil. The oil has nothing to do with it. The technology has gotten better. It's either adequately lubricated or it isn't.
Non serviceable suspension doesn't necessarily have a shorter lifespan and I have both. Just because I have zerk fittings and can grease my chassis doesn't necessarily mean it will last longer it just meant you HAD to. Still have to rebuild solid axles and hubs by 300k and even without a greaseable chassis, a new Honda (or whatever) can just get new wheel bearings and struts when needed and still go the same 300k with less money and maintenance.
It's not a conspiracy.
We can't have cars & pick-up trucks lasting a million miles, so thin oil and sealed suspension components that cannot be serviced is the new norm.
Cars and trucks are lasting longer and longer. Thin oil isn't killing them and yet many late model cars can go over 300k now with little more than maintenance. Old cars couldn't do that and they were using thicker oil. The oil has nothing to do with it. The technology has gotten better. It's either adequately lubricated or it isn't.
Non serviceable suspension doesn't necessarily have a shorter lifespan and I have both. Just because I have zerk fittings and can grease my chassis doesn't necessarily mean it will last longer it just meant you HAD to. Still have to rebuild solid axles and hubs by 300k and even without a greaseable chassis, a new Honda (or whatever) can just get new wheel bearings and struts when needed and still go the same 300k with less money and maintenance.
It's not a conspiracy.
jayg; You're coming up 700k short of a million miles, and you haven't left the pavement.
Originally Posted By: Merkava_4
Just an observation. I noticed alotta guys on here are afraid to try 5W-30 when their cap says 0W-20.
I agree with Merk there are some here on this site that indicate that a 5w-30 is too thick.
In OZ about the thinnest that is used is a 5w-30 for the same vehicles you drive in similar climate to OZ.
Very few vehicles using a 0w-20 in OZ.
For a 0w-20 there has never been an issue in going to a 0w-30 grade.
In OZ for Holden Commodores 2004 VY V6 3800 engine using a 5w-30 oil or 10w-30 as the recommended grades no issue if the 5w-30 is Not available see below even a 20w-50 grade is suitable. I have provided the link to Mobil and Valvoline data lube sites for the non believers.
The Holden OEM manual makes similar recommendations. Even for the NEW vehicles that were off the showroom floor.
http://www.datateck.com.au/lube/mobil_au/
288
If MOBIL 1 5W-30 or MOBIL SUPER 2000 5W-30 is unavailable, use MOBIL 1 0W-40, MOBIL SUPER 2000 X2 10W-40 or MOBIL SUPER 1000 20W-50. With LPG engine, use MOBIL 1 0W-40 or MOBIL SUPER 2000 X2 10W-40 meeting Spec. No. HN2314.
http://www.datateck.com.au/lube/valv_auMS/
600
If ENGINE ARMOUR 10W-30 or VALVOLINE PROFESSIONAL SERIES 10W-30 is unavailable, use DURABLEND 15W-50, ENGINE ARMOUR 15W-40, VALVOLINE PROFESSIONAL SERIES 15W-40, NEXTGEN 15W-40 , XLD PREMIUM 20W-50 or MAXLIFE 20W-50. With LPG engine, use SUPER DIESEL 15W-40.
Just an observation. I noticed alotta guys on here are afraid to try 5W-30 when their cap says 0W-20.
I agree with Merk there are some here on this site that indicate that a 5w-30 is too thick.
In OZ about the thinnest that is used is a 5w-30 for the same vehicles you drive in similar climate to OZ.
Very few vehicles using a 0w-20 in OZ.
For a 0w-20 there has never been an issue in going to a 0w-30 grade.
In OZ for Holden Commodores 2004 VY V6 3800 engine using a 5w-30 oil or 10w-30 as the recommended grades no issue if the 5w-30 is Not available see below even a 20w-50 grade is suitable. I have provided the link to Mobil and Valvoline data lube sites for the non believers.
The Holden OEM manual makes similar recommendations. Even for the NEW vehicles that were off the showroom floor.
http://www.datateck.com.au/lube/mobil_au/
288
If MOBIL 1 5W-30 or MOBIL SUPER 2000 5W-30 is unavailable, use MOBIL 1 0W-40, MOBIL SUPER 2000 X2 10W-40 or MOBIL SUPER 1000 20W-50. With LPG engine, use MOBIL 1 0W-40 or MOBIL SUPER 2000 X2 10W-40 meeting Spec. No. HN2314.
http://www.datateck.com.au/lube/valv_auMS/
600
If ENGINE ARMOUR 10W-30 or VALVOLINE PROFESSIONAL SERIES 10W-30 is unavailable, use DURABLEND 15W-50, ENGINE ARMOUR 15W-40, VALVOLINE PROFESSIONAL SERIES 15W-40, NEXTGEN 15W-40 , XLD PREMIUM 20W-50 or MAXLIFE 20W-50. With LPG engine, use SUPER DIESEL 15W-40.
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I'm sticking to 5w30 in my vehicles as well. It turns to butter just below freezing temps and my engines simply love it!
Toyota Corolla 1.8L 2013-2016 models is a Valvoline recommends 0w-20 or 5w-30 or 10w-30 or 10w-40 oil
http://www.datateck.com.au/lube/valv_auMS/
http://www.datateck.com.au/lube/valv_auMS/
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