Wheel bearings C2,C3,2RS?????

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I'm probably putting more thought into this than I need to but...

My Trabant 601 has always made this rumbling noise from what I think is the front passenger side wheel. It changes intensity as I steer. Starts making noise at speeds above 35 mph, etc. just as a bad wheel bearing would make.

In the summer it's not that noticeable but when it get's near freezing, does the noise get louder. Maybe it's the fact I am driving with the windows down in the summer and the wind noise is drowning out any other noise. Or the colder weather does in fact make a worn bearing sound louder since metal shrinks in colder temperatures. if that sound logical.

Unlike other cars with bad wheel bearings, this is more of a rumbling uneven sound rather than a low frequency droning sound. Otherwise there is no unusual vibration or jerking from the steering wheel. Just allot of noise.

I jacked up each side of the car and there is some up and down and side to side play but no in and out play in that wheel. It was suggested I have someone hold the brake and repeat the test and if there is no play means the wheel bearing is OK. I really don't understand how that test would tell me anything. Looks to me like the brake shoes against the drums could still move about with the hub just as well.

So I tried that and the play was minimized but not eliminated. I repeated the test on the driver's side and there was less play on that wheel.

For now I'm just going to assume the wheel bearings need replacement. Mainly because I've spun worn bearings on my index finger that would make a rubbing, crunching sound yet had no play where a new bearing made no noise.

This 1981 model has what is known as hinge joints. In 1984 IFA-VEB-Sachenring did a MAJOR overhaul on this car and fitted modern CV joints, head rests, 12 volt electrical system, electronic ignition and a "fuel saving" carburetor! And in 1989 updated the car even more with a VW 1.1 liter four stroke engine for the next decade (or century?) not anticipating what was going to happen with the Berlin Wall.

My model takes two 6206 C2 bearings per wheel. With a spring between each bearing. And two separate dust seals.

20358_0.jpg


The bearings themselves are not that expensive but shipping from Germany using DHL is ($55 minimum 2kg package). Since these are just bearings I'm wanting to source them from here in the United States. Just like the guy did with the input shaft bearings on my transmission.

Here is my question. I found several 6206 bearings on Ebay (OD: 62mm, Width: 16mm, ID: 30mm) but none of them carry the C2 suffix and some are 2SR. So I looked it up to see what this means:

http://www.microbluebearings.com/pages/BEARING-SUFFIX-CODES.html

The best deal I found on replacement bearings that seems to come close was this:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/111630049436?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT

Unlike the factory bearings that use separate dust seals these are sealed bearings like on modern front wheel drives using CV joints. Just like the ones fitted to Trabants with CV joints.

These are C3 instead of C2. I cannot seem to find any with the C2 suffix.

C2 means Bearing with internal clearance smaller than normal.
C3 means Bearing with internal clearance greater than normal.

What exactly does that mean and is that a big deal and would the sealed bearings make any difference compared to the bearings that use separate seals?

My guess is the bearings without seals would be used in an application where they are lubricated with oil like in a gearbox. And the sealed bearings could not be packed with grease like on RWD vehicles that use tapered bearings. In other words, when the grease dries out, the bearings will wear out.

I jumped the gun and went ahead and ordered a set so they would be here next week.

Should I have waited on some advice? Will these bearings I ordered work or does anybody see why they wouldn't?
 
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C2 is clearance GREATER than normal. Your chart is wrong. These are commonly used for high RPM, or side loads. It would be the correct choice for you application. 2RS is 2 rubber seals. A sealed bearing. If you want to remove, the pop out with a ice pick. However, the grease inside is clean, and outside grease is usually not nearly as clean, so I personally would get C2, 2RS and leave alone.

Rod
 
"I jacked up each side of the car and there is some up and down and side to side play but no in and out play in that wheel. It was suggested I have someone hold the brake and repeat the test and if there is no play means the wheel bearing is OK. I really don't understand how that test would tell me anything. Looks to me like the brake shoes against the drums could still move about with the hub just as well."

Don't apply the brake. You won't be able to tell if the brakes are on. If there is any play either the bearing is bad or a steering/suspension component is bad. Just look where it's moving.
 
Quote:
Here is my question. I found several 6206 bearings on Ebay (OD: 62mm, Width: 16mm, ID: 30mm) but none of them carry the C2 suffix and some are 2SR. So I looked it up to see what this means:
http://www.microbluebearings.com/pages/BEARING-SUFFIX-CODES.html

a)Your original bearing is 6206RS C2 (1 rubber seal at C2 internal radial clearance range between 1 and 11 microns).
C2 bearing is difficult to source and is meant for high rotational speed like say, 3000 to 5000 rpm;

b)Failing which, you may alternatively source for readily available 6206RS (1 rubber seal at normal clearance range between 6 and 20 microns) preferably;or

c)Source for 6206RS C3 (1 rubber seal at C3 clearance range between 15 and 33 microns).
C3 clearance bearing is meant for vibratory application with eccentric loading, which isn't the case with a car wheel.


Quote:
The best deal I found on replacement bearings that seems to come close was this:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/111630049436?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
Unlike the factory bearings that use separate dust seals these are sealed bearings like on modern front wheel drives using CV joints. Just like the ones fitted to Trabants with CV joints.
These are C3 instead of C2. I cannot seem to find any with the C2 suffix.
C2 means Bearing with internal clearance smaller than normal.
C3 means Bearing with internal clearance greater than normal.
What exactly does that mean and is that a big deal and would the sealed bearings make any difference compared to the bearings that use separate seals?

It's ok to purchase sealed bearings as above.
However prior to bearing installation, one seal from each bearing must be removed and facing each other during installation i.e inner side of a 2-bearng setup.
Whilst the 'unremoved' seal of each bearing must face externally away from each other.
Repack additional grease in between the 2 bearings during installation.

Get normal clearance if you can, otherwise don't bother as C3 would do just as fine though it's meant for vibrating mechanism.

Quote:
I jumped the gun and went ahead and ordered a set so they would be here next week.
Should I have waited on some advice? Will these bearings I ordered work or does anybody see why they wouldn't?

C3 bearings would work and I don't see why it wouldn't , though normal clearance bearings would be a more 'suitable' for this application.
Both clearance classes are suitable for tire rotation speed though.

Just my
49.gif
 
A spring between the bearings ? Normally deep groove ball bearings used as wheel bearings will have a spacer between....otherwise you will have play.
 
Originally Posted By: Silk
A spring between the bearings ? Normally deep groove ball bearings used as wheel bearings will have a spacer between....otherwise you will have play.


Yeah there is a spring between the two bearings. I'm not sure what all is involved in extracting the bearings until I pull the hubs or look a the shop manual.

Here is the breakdown of the front suspension, #11 are the bearings:

522026a8f86a1dcbabc37c3d660538c6.t00000106_riss2.jpg
 
you'll never get the wheel rpm up to 3000, so why the high speed bearings?

I'm just looking for some replacement bearings without having to pay so much on shipping from Germany. As long as these bearings will fit, don't fail prematurely or cause any issues with play, I'm not concerned.
 
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Originally Posted By: Trav
Front and rear bearings are the same is that correct?


Yes up until 1984. Then from 1984 or 85, the front bearings are different but rear bearings are the same.
 
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