2000 Buell X1 (Sportster) Trans/Primary UOA

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High copper and lead - am hoping it's the rivets from the spring plate as I read that this can start happening at around 25k. Will check soon.

18,252 Changed right after buying, so unknown mileage or oil. Looked terrible - tons of fine metal but no big chunks on magnet. Drive belt was overtightened when I got the bike.

19,305 This with Formula+. Moderate amount of fine metal, some on magnet, I don't like seeing more than this.

Between these two, changed mostly at 1k with Formula+, except once trying SYN3 (was slower shifting). Changing frequently hoping to see the amount of metal drop.

25,581 This with Formula+.

26,957 This is with Bel-Ray Sport Transmission Fluid. Drained oil looked better than in past, but there was a little foam on inside of the derby cover. I guess I couldn't see the high copper because it doesn't reflect as much light. I'm sure the Bel-Ray didn't cause the high copper and lead. Clutch and shifting seemed the same as the Formula+, but in the end it seemed like it may have been grinding on shifts a barely detectable amount in higher gears, but may have been me getting lazy about pulling in the clutch all the way. We'll see.
 
I opened it up and the spring plate was fine, but I had a new one and it in anyway. Everything looked great.
The only thing besides oil that was different was I spent a lot of time in commute traffic and was using the clutch a lot.
We'll see how it goes.
 


Castrol "Power1 V-Twin 4T 20W/50"

I didn't run it very long because the clutch was often dragging a little when hot. I changed back to Formula+ and the clutch and shifting is fine again.

They obviously named this oil to compete with Mobil1 V-Twin, but M1 has a lot of ZDDP and this Castrol doesn't have much.
 
Good info, thanks for posting these.
Ive been running Formula+ exclusively in the transmission and primary, never really knowing the make up of the stuff, except, based on the forums, the stuff just works so havent felt the need to try anything else as much as I get tempted.

But now, that I see the Viscosity is about the same as the engine oil I use, Mystik JT8 15w50.
I MAY be tempted to try the Mystik in the Primary for starters then Transmission. Will see, maybe not, only reason would be is I have so much of Mystik, I could never possibly use it all in the next couple years. Hate to waste it, I have so much of it, I could change all three holes for the next 2+ years every 5000 miles.. and still have left overs.
 
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Just to be clear for myself, the Buell shares clutch and transmission?
Though your shifting wasnt as good, the wear numbers on the Castrol look good even with the less mileage on the Castrol.
 
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Yes, Except for the 1125R, which has a Rotax engine, all Buells are Sportster based engines that have the primary chaincase (chain, clutch, stator) and transmission sharing the same oil.

I think the Formula+ is a straight weight oil, somewhere above 40. I put it in the freezer (~20 degrees F) along with other oils and it was barely flowing - much thicker than SYN3, a synthetic 20w50. I'd have to do more testing if I was going to use it below 32 degrees or so. At running temperatures you can tell it's considerably thinner than 20w50 (I've also tried SYN3), as it shifts much easier.

If I had a big twin, I'd probably use Formula+ in the primary and a gear oil in the transmission. I doubt Formula+ protects gears as well, but it is great for a clutch and probably the copper of the stator. One thing I wonder about is how seals like being in two different types of oil. Like the crank seal between the engine and primary, or on a big twin between the primary and the transmission. It may not be great on an engine with old seals to have Red Line on one side and a conventional on the other.

With the Castrol, the clutch was sometimes dragging when sitting at stop lights after being on the highway for a while. Not good at all. It was also not all that smooth when taking off, regardless of the temperature. It would pull harder and softer when letting out the clutch. No big deal, and I don't really mind it, but I haven't experienced that with the other oils that I tried. Maybe it would get better if I continued to use it for several oil changes, but Formula+ works great and I'm probably done with experimenting with other oils in the transmission/primary. The RL MT-90 is interesting but I'd worry about the clutch slipping and my bike had about 100 HP near redline with a stock Sportster clutch, so I don't want to risk it.
 
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The clutch is still dragging sometimes when hot. Sorry, I wish I could go back and edit. The problem was not the Castrol.

I would use these reports only too look at the characteristics of these oils that you don't normally see, and not which seems to be wearing better, as there were variables.
 
Good stuff, going to bookmark this, think I will keep the clutch/primary Formula+ and possibly for the first time run my Mystic 15/50 in the transmission. Never did a transmission UOA before, plenty on the engine.
Dont see how I can go wrong with the Mystik. Ill think it out more over the next month but Viscosity is the same.

Looking at your results, your iron numbers are way lower using motor oil then the Formula+ and agree with the Big Twin statement to a degree only I would use motor oil as HD allows the use of its own motor oil SYN 3 in its transmissions.

I do this stuff for fun, even though, like I always do, told my wife Im keeping this bike forever it will be amazing it I actually do still own it past the 6 years of warranty I have on the bike/ :eek:)
Im lucky in that regard, she LOVES the Road King, so much, it makes it hard to look at other bikes when she is around.
 
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