Anyone repack pulley bearings

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I am replacing my leaking water pump on my escalade, was removing my serp belt and I was thinking about replacing the tensioner because it's the original one w 160k miles on it. Then I thought perhaps I can just repack it w wheel bearing grease. Repacking is free, replace both tensioners and the idler pulley would be about $100. Your thoughts?
 
You can press out the bearing and put a new $2 one in. Many take the "6203" and you can figure yours out by measuring your old one and comparing to a chart online.

And by "press", generally you can use a ~1 1/4" impact socket, sledgehammer, and some scraps of wood to prop the pulley on.
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You can repack it as long and you don't damage the seal and a properly greased sealed bearing actually has very little grease in it. It should be nowhere near "full". You risk the chance of damaging the seal or overgreasing the bearing, either will cause a failure at the least convenient time.
 
I did a half hearted repack of a serpentine tensioner pulley. I used Lucas xtra heavy duty grease because it's supposed to be for higher speed than wheel bearing grease.

The grease inside was black and dry, so I don't see why the re-grease wouldn't help.
 
Originally Posted By: tom slick
You can repack it as long and you don't damage the seal and a properly greased sealed bearing actually has very little grease in it. It should be nowhere near "full". You risk the chance of damaging the seal or overgreasing the bearing, either will cause a failure at the least convenient time.


How much grease is too much? I popped the seal off of the pulley w out damaging it. It's dry in there.
 
I vote for replacing the bearing. If the bearing that was installed is dry its probably already rough. For the cost for a good timkin or other higher end bearing its really a no brainer. I have done good number usually when servicing alternators. Complete tensioners are stupid high.
 
Yes you can repack a bearing with grease if you're lucky.

BUT - Most of these bearings use races and bearings that are 'case hardened' only, that means they have a limited life and cheaper to make. So the repacked bearing may not last long anyway.

If you replace the bearing, don't use a hammer and a block of wood to slam it home, etc, bearings last longer if they are pressed in with an arbour press. You can grease up the bearing outside if needed to ease it in.

You can buy a cheap chinese arbour press and you'll find all kinds of uses that replaces a hammer.

I dragged out the one I made in high school machine shop, cleaned it up, put on a gun blue finish, added brass shim stock to tighten up the action and some grease in the rack, now it's smooth as can be !!!!
 
I don't know about US vehicles, but on Japanese stuff, the bearing might say something like 6203, but it won't be of standard dimensions, usually the inner is a different size. Just another trap to fall into.
 
If you're short on tooling (eg a press) you can freeze the bearing and it'll go in easier.
 
I went ahead and ordered new tensioners and idler pulley. It's not expensive and I'll feel better driving w new ones vs repacked ones.
 
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