Best Group II 5W30 ?
- Thread starter ChrisD46
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Pretty much any brand name conventional(dino)oil are all very good however Pennzoil Yellow Bottle may have an edge on paper as being the top single one brand. My top 3 brands are:
Cheap
Cheaper
Cheapest
Just kidding. I use any oil on sale. : )
Cheap
Cheaper
Cheapest
Just kidding. I use any oil on sale. : )
wemay
Site Donor 2023
Is there a completely GrpII motor oil anymore?
I would estimate:
1. Castrol GTX
2. Pennzoil yellow
3. Chevron
1. Castrol GTX
2. Pennzoil yellow
3. Chevron
If by conventional 5W-30, you mean non-full synthetic, then the best are the semi-synthetics like red bottle Valvoline MaxLife, Castrol Magnatec or Pennzoil Gold 5W-30. They have lower Noack volatility and reach higher specs like Dexos1.
If you want an all Group 2 oil in 30 grade, then the best should be a 10W-30 that has a lot less polymer VII load than a 5W-30 would have.
You know, I can't name one conventional 5W-30 that is sold in Australia, they are all either conventional 10W-30 like GTX, or semi-synthetic 5W-30 like Magnatec.
Myself ? I use a semi-synthetic 10W-30 that is SN and A3/B4.
If you want an all Group 2 oil in 30 grade, then the best should be a 10W-30 that has a lot less polymer VII load than a 5W-30 would have.
You know, I can't name one conventional 5W-30 that is sold in Australia, they are all either conventional 10W-30 like GTX, or semi-synthetic 5W-30 like Magnatec.
Myself ? I use a semi-synthetic 10W-30 that is SN and A3/B4.
Originally Posted By: artificialist
I would estimate:
1. Castrol GTX
2. Pennzoil yellow
3. Chevron
I'd run any of those (and have). With Chevron cases on sale twice a year at Costco for just over $2 a quart, it's a really good value. Since I just picked up the Buick in my sig, and it's still under powertrain warranty for another 2.5 years and 50k miles, I'll stick with a Dexos1 oil and use the Chevron only in my daughter's '09 Galant for now.
I would estimate:
1. Castrol GTX
2. Pennzoil yellow
3. Chevron
I'd run any of those (and have). With Chevron cases on sale twice a year at Costco for just over $2 a quart, it's a really good value. Since I just picked up the Buick in my sig, and it's still under powertrain warranty for another 2.5 years and 50k miles, I'll stick with a Dexos1 oil and use the Chevron only in my daughter's '09 Galant for now.
I don't want to add a can of worms, but if you go look at 540RAT's Blog site and look at the conventional oils he's "tested" Chevron comes out very well. It's been a major player in long life engines using just refined dino oil. Their Delo products were the first oils to go 1,000,000 miles in over the road trucking w/o an overhaul (history, but followed shortly by Delvac...).
Their Supreme oils have been the preferred for fire departments around here for decades. Those engines go from zero to WOT in seconds and do it time and again for decades w/o blowing up or breaking down. That speaks to residual film strength and capillary fill - two things that good dino oils are really good at
Their Supreme oils have been the preferred for fire departments around here for decades. Those engines go from zero to WOT in seconds and do it time and again for decades w/o blowing up or breaking down. That speaks to residual film strength and capillary fill - two things that good dino oils are really good at
PYB 5w-30 gave me outstanding UOAs in my 08 Jeep Wrangler. As good as, if not better, than the synthetics I was using before.
I asked about Group II oils because of page marked 16/20 in this experiment : http://www.pecj.or.jp/japanese/overseas/conference/pdf/conference12-19.pdf
I have been saying for a l-o-n-g time that high quality dino oils are good. And I have been saying for the same amount of time that synthetics have issues. I'm not saying don't use them. I might as well be whistling in the wind to take that stand. But, I am saying be careful in your selection ...
4WD
$50 site donor 2024
BL: folks listen to you - I'm a recovering synthetic addict - but your capillary attraction thing got my ear for my 5.3L that sits idle for two weeks here and there - spots underneath getting bigger. Found a deal for Delvac 15w40 - HTHS and TBN for the money is great.
That and BIL going 400k on Mobil bulk Dino ...
That and BIL going 400k on Mobil bulk Dino ...
The best Group II 5W30 would, in my opinion, be the one made with the best Group II base oil. Not all Group II's are born equal. A lot of the ones from the US used to be decidedly ropey with the 4 cst grades having extremely high Noack. On the other hand, Group II's from Bharat Petroleum in India and Formosa Plastics in Taiwan are superb and border on Group III quality.
Originally Posted By: BrocLuno
I have been saying for a l-o-n-g time that high quality dino oils are good. And I have been saying for the same amount of time that synthetics have issues. I'm not saying don't use them. I might as well be whistling in the wind to take that stand. But, I am saying be careful in your selection ...
What are the issues with synthetic oils?
I have been saying for a l-o-n-g time that high quality dino oils are good. And I have been saying for the same amount of time that synthetics have issues. I'm not saying don't use them. I might as well be whistling in the wind to take that stand. But, I am saying be careful in your selection ...
What are the issues with synthetic oils?
Originally Posted By: wemay
Is there a completely GrpII motor oil anymore?
Probably not in 5W-30, most are blends or Group II+...
Is there a completely GrpII motor oil anymore?
Probably not in 5W-30, most are blends or Group II+...
4WD
$50 site donor 2024
I don't think the US would be making as much good HDEO or industrial oils if the GII was so horrible ...
EHC45 and EHC65 ain't your grandpa's GII ...
EHC45 and EHC65 ain't your grandpa's GII ...
Originally Posted By: BrocLuno
I have been saying for a l-o-n-g time that high quality dino oils are good. And I have been saying for the same amount of time that synthetics have issues. I'm not saying don't use them. I might as well be whistling in the wind to take that stand. But, I am saying be careful in your selection ...
Although I have no UOA to support wear on my Nissan VQ40 DE V6 in my 2012 Pathfinder the start up noise seems noticeably quieter when I run a quality Dino oil or a simi synthetic. The Nissan VQ V6 has a rather large timing chain that is known to make noise on start up. In my opinion it is the fact that synthetic oil does not stick long on the chain after shut down over night. The best running and quietest oil I have used is Chevron Delo XLE 10W30 simi synthetic and Castrol Magnatec 5w30 simi synthetic.
I have been saying for a l-o-n-g time that high quality dino oils are good. And I have been saying for the same amount of time that synthetics have issues. I'm not saying don't use them. I might as well be whistling in the wind to take that stand. But, I am saying be careful in your selection ...
Although I have no UOA to support wear on my Nissan VQ40 DE V6 in my 2012 Pathfinder the start up noise seems noticeably quieter when I run a quality Dino oil or a simi synthetic. The Nissan VQ V6 has a rather large timing chain that is known to make noise on start up. In my opinion it is the fact that synthetic oil does not stick long on the chain after shut down over night. The best running and quietest oil I have used is Chevron Delo XLE 10W30 simi synthetic and Castrol Magnatec 5w30 simi synthetic.
Originally Posted By: 4WD
I don't think the US would be making as much good HDEO or industrial oils if the GII was so horrible ...
EHC45 and EHC65 ain't your grandpa's GII ...
HDDO is still primarily a 15W40 market. You don't necessarily see the problems of high finished oil Noack in these heavier grades even with 'bad' Group II's (although the way the specs keep shovelling more and more ashless dispersant into HDDO, it's sort of going that way).
Industrial oils will generally not give problems with high Noack because you generally never set fire to the oil.
This post specifically asked about Group II 5W30 PCMO's which only the US is crazy enough to make. One squint at at the numbers in PQIA tells you all you need to know, which is that US Group II base oil Noack is excessively high.
Oh, and to the person who raised the issue of Group II+, yes they are better in terms of Noack but one needs to be a tad sceptical about their actual use. The Base Oil Read-across Guidelines allow you to pass a test by including some Group II+ but then replace it in the commercial oil with bog-standard Group II from the same base oil slate (provided the final oil has a Noack of less than 15%).
I don't think the US would be making as much good HDEO or industrial oils if the GII was so horrible ...
EHC45 and EHC65 ain't your grandpa's GII ...
HDDO is still primarily a 15W40 market. You don't necessarily see the problems of high finished oil Noack in these heavier grades even with 'bad' Group II's (although the way the specs keep shovelling more and more ashless dispersant into HDDO, it's sort of going that way).
Industrial oils will generally not give problems with high Noack because you generally never set fire to the oil.
This post specifically asked about Group II 5W30 PCMO's which only the US is crazy enough to make. One squint at at the numbers in PQIA tells you all you need to know, which is that US Group II base oil Noack is excessively high.
Oh, and to the person who raised the issue of Group II+, yes they are better in terms of Noack but one needs to be a tad sceptical about their actual use. The Base Oil Read-across Guidelines allow you to pass a test by including some Group II+ but then replace it in the commercial oil with bog-standard Group II from the same base oil slate (provided the final oil has a Noack of less than 15%).
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4WD
$50 site donor 2024
You are certainly a highly regarded poster - but 400k on this American trash Dino in American junk is ok by me .
(No driveline repairs)
Good night ..
(No driveline repairs)
Good night ..
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