So my wife got a new car with a ford 2.0 twin scroll engine and from reading around ( I come from diesels ) it seems that these engine build up carbon due to the direct injection. Is there anything you can add here and there to help with the carbon build up?
Additive to help with direct injection carbon B/U?
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Nothing will stop carbon build-up on intake valves. If it is going to happen, it is going to happen. Period.
Using top-tier fuel will reduce deposits on pistons and injector tips.
Using top-tier fuel will reduce deposits on pistons and injector tips.
Seafoam or even a water mist spray into the intake with the engine running at low idle will shift intake Carbon and Carbon on the intake valves. If it forms in the cylinders just use a can of major brand fuel additive every OCI to keep the injectors clean. A good blast down an empty highway or Italian tune up is very effective at burning off Carbon. Good fuel helps but top tier gas is an expensive option.
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I promise you, water and seafoam wont do [censored] to DI intake valve deposits.
BG makes a machine and cleaner THAT YOU CAN RUN THE ENGINE ON. It didn't do a thing to DI valve deposits, and we declined the purchase of the machine.
BG makes a machine and cleaner THAT YOU CAN RUN THE ENGINE ON. It didn't do a thing to DI valve deposits, and we declined the purchase of the machine.
There is someone that stopped by work that has a DI Mazda. We got into a discussion about oil because he uses Red Line like I do. We took a look at his valves with a borescope and at just over 100K there is discoloration and some rough looking areas but no built up deposits. He lives somewhere up in LA and uses Costco gasoline and adds Red Line gasoline treatment at their recommended intervals even though the gas is top tier. The whole car is in excellent condition and does not need the oil to be topped off between 10K oil changes. He said the level goes down about a sixteenth to an eighth of an inch on the dipstick before the next oil change. I wonder if the oil has something to do with the condition of the valves because I don't see how the additives in the gas or the additional gas treatment could get to the valves like it would without the DI. Red Line oil is a bit different than many of the more popular engine oils you can buy at places like Walmart or auto parts stores.
It's the PCV and egr that cause valve deposits, not the oil or fuel.
Originally Posted By: OneEyeJack
I wonder if the oil has something to do with the condition of the valves because I don't see how the additives in the gas or the additional gas treatment could get to the valves like it would without the DI. Red Line oil is a bit different than many of the more popular engine oils you can buy at places like Walmart or auto parts stores.
What is SAPS content of that Redline oil?
I wonder if the oil has something to do with the condition of the valves because I don't see how the additives in the gas or the additional gas treatment could get to the valves like it would without the DI. Red Line oil is a bit different than many of the more popular engine oils you can buy at places like Walmart or auto parts stores.
What is SAPS content of that Redline oil?
Quote:
Nothing will stop carbon build-up on intake valves. If it is going to happen, it is going to happen. Period.
Using top-tier fuel will reduce deposits on pistons and injector tips.
This.
I'll add the 'if' an operative word as 'imo' some/many now have a much better grip on the deposits than the early adopters like audi and others.
Nothing will stop carbon build-up on intake valves. If it is going to happen, it is going to happen. Period.
Using top-tier fuel will reduce deposits on pistons and injector tips.
This.
I'll add the 'if' an operative word as 'imo' some/many now have a much better grip on the deposits than the early adopters like audi and others.
Originally Posted By: OneEyeJack
There is someone that stopped by work that has a DI Mazda. We got into a discussion about oil because he uses Red Line like I do. We took a look at his valves with a borescope and at just over 100K there is discoloration and some rough looking areas but no built up deposits. He lives somewhere up in LA and uses Costco gasoline and adds Red Line gasoline treatment at their recommended intervals even though the gas is top tier. The whole car is in excellent condition and does not need the oil to be topped off between 10K oil changes. He said the level goes down about a sixteenth to an eighth of an inch on the dipstick before the next oil change. I wonder if the oil has something to do with the condition of the valves because I don't see how the additives in the gas or the additional gas treatment could get to the valves like it would without the DI. Red Line oil is a bit different than many of the more popular engine oils you can buy at places like Walmart or auto parts stores.
According to Philips, Red Line uses ester base stocks.
https://www.redlineoil.com/whyRedline.aspx
I believe that esters tend to have excellent high temp properties (like low NOACK loss), but relatively high cold viscosities...to my mind, Red Line could be a fine choice for warm climates and weekend racers, but maybe not for those who park their cars outside in cold climates. Note that Red Line was originally a racing lube company.
As for DI deposits, I tried spraying CRC GDI Intake Valve Cleaner in my open airbox past the MAF sensor while the car was idling and had a rather poor experience with it due to the physical configuration of my car...there was a 90 degree bend in the air path just past the sensor and the cleaner ended up fouling the MAF and, I think, pooling up somewhat before it got to the intake valves. I don't have before and after pics, but my car has actually been running quite well since I cleaned the fouled MAF sensor...I'll have to figure out a different way to introduce the product if I want to use it again.
The thing I always read about DI engines is that gas additives don't help with intake valve deposits because the fuel doesn't wash over the valves.
There is someone that stopped by work that has a DI Mazda. We got into a discussion about oil because he uses Red Line like I do. We took a look at his valves with a borescope and at just over 100K there is discoloration and some rough looking areas but no built up deposits. He lives somewhere up in LA and uses Costco gasoline and adds Red Line gasoline treatment at their recommended intervals even though the gas is top tier. The whole car is in excellent condition and does not need the oil to be topped off between 10K oil changes. He said the level goes down about a sixteenth to an eighth of an inch on the dipstick before the next oil change. I wonder if the oil has something to do with the condition of the valves because I don't see how the additives in the gas or the additional gas treatment could get to the valves like it would without the DI. Red Line oil is a bit different than many of the more popular engine oils you can buy at places like Walmart or auto parts stores.
According to Philips, Red Line uses ester base stocks.
https://www.redlineoil.com/whyRedline.aspx
I believe that esters tend to have excellent high temp properties (like low NOACK loss), but relatively high cold viscosities...to my mind, Red Line could be a fine choice for warm climates and weekend racers, but maybe not for those who park their cars outside in cold climates. Note that Red Line was originally a racing lube company.
As for DI deposits, I tried spraying CRC GDI Intake Valve Cleaner in my open airbox past the MAF sensor while the car was idling and had a rather poor experience with it due to the physical configuration of my car...there was a 90 degree bend in the air path just past the sensor and the cleaner ended up fouling the MAF and, I think, pooling up somewhat before it got to the intake valves. I don't have before and after pics, but my car has actually been running quite well since I cleaned the fouled MAF sensor...I'll have to figure out a different way to introduce the product if I want to use it again.
The thing I always read about DI engines is that gas additives don't help with intake valve deposits because the fuel doesn't wash over the valves.
Originally Posted By: NattyBoh
So my wife got a new car with a ford 2.0 twin scroll engine and from reading around ( I come from diesels ) it seems that these engine build up carbon due to the direct injection. Is there anything you can add here and there to help with the carbon build up?
If you come from the diesel world and are comfortable with the performance there you will have no concerns about the valves on your gas engine. Diesels have been DI forever and with the massive (relatively speaking) amounts of EGR they have to flow for emissions the intake valves are subjected to a lot more than you will ever see in a gas engine.
So my wife got a new car with a ford 2.0 twin scroll engine and from reading around ( I come from diesels ) it seems that these engine build up carbon due to the direct injection. Is there anything you can add here and there to help with the carbon build up?
If you come from the diesel world and are comfortable with the performance there you will have no concerns about the valves on your gas engine. Diesels have been DI forever and with the massive (relatively speaking) amounts of EGR they have to flow for emissions the intake valves are subjected to a lot more than you will ever see in a gas engine.
Originally Posted By: Sayjac
Quote:
Nothing will stop carbon build-up on intake valves. If it is going to happen, it is going to happen. Period.
Using top-tier fuel will reduce deposits on pistons and injector tips.
This.
I'll add the 'if' an operative word as 'imo' some/many now have a much better grip on the deposits than the early adopters like audi and others.
This.....and from what I've read, Ford has had very little issues with deposits.
I can't remember exactly what they did to help remedy deposits but I think it had something to do with timing of fuel spray.....I have a non turbo 2014 2.0 Focus with DI and have had zero issues..
Quote:
Nothing will stop carbon build-up on intake valves. If it is going to happen, it is going to happen. Period.
Using top-tier fuel will reduce deposits on pistons and injector tips.
This.
I'll add the 'if' an operative word as 'imo' some/many now have a much better grip on the deposits than the early adopters like audi and others.
This.....and from what I've read, Ford has had very little issues with deposits.
I can't remember exactly what they did to help remedy deposits but I think it had something to do with timing of fuel spray.....I have a non turbo 2014 2.0 Focus with DI and have had zero issues..
wemay
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It isn't a given "every" GDI will be deposit laden. Use Top Tier gas regularly and a bottle of Techron or Gumout around each oil change. This isn't for direct cleaning of the valves (for reasons already mentioned) but more so keeping the injector's spray pattern consistent and clean.
https://www.cars.com/articles/do-fuel-injectors-need-periodic-cleaning-1420680479051/
https://www.cars.com/articles/do-fuel-injectors-need-periodic-cleaning-1420680479051/
Originally Posted By: nyumski
just do the italian tuneup once a month, better
Granted my terrain is certainly newer, this is what I do in hopes to keep the deposits at bay. I also run top tier (Mobil or Shell) and run a bottle of techron or gumout all in one before an oil change. So far I am getting good MPGs and the throttle response is good
just do the italian tuneup once a month, better
Granted my terrain is certainly newer, this is what I do in hopes to keep the deposits at bay. I also run top tier (Mobil or Shell) and run a bottle of techron or gumout all in one before an oil change. So far I am getting good MPGs and the throttle response is good
An oil catch can is the best hope for gasoline DI engines.
Don't do short tripping. Everytime you shut the engine down, you Buildup some oil cooking from a hot intake valves stem seal normal leakage. Catch can won't solve the problem, just a better synthetic with ester base oil.
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+1 I would use low noack synthetic oil,along with Gumout All in One or Redline SI-1 fuel cleaner. I'm also had great luck wity CRC GDi throttle spray. Used every 10k miles or every other oci.Can be used on DI and non GDi applications. For fuel try to stay with E 0 fuels or at least top tier stations/stations with a lot of fuel turnover. Stay away from lucas,marvel mystery or seafoam as they cant clean DI deposits. On Gumouts website you can see a video of the comparison to seafoam and its drastic. Running highway miles should be easy on this car.
Only way to help keep the intake valves clean is to spray out the throttle body and PCV lines while the car is running. Do that every 10k and it should be ok expect for the most problem prone ones like most European cars and the lexus 2.5 motor. Looks like Toyota is giving up on the 2.5 as its not a option anymore, only the dual inject 4cyl and 3.5 v6.
CRC has a strong formula for intake valve issues
http://crcindustries.com/auto/intake-valve-cleaner.php
Your gas or "Italian" tune ups will not do anything to intake valve deposits for DI motors. There is no fuel in the intake so driving hard or adding things to the gas will not help.
CRC has a strong formula for intake valve issues
http://crcindustries.com/auto/intake-valve-cleaner.php
Your gas or "Italian" tune ups will not do anything to intake valve deposits for DI motors. There is no fuel in the intake so driving hard or adding things to the gas will not help.
Top-tier fuel and the occasional dose of Techron seem sensible. But anything more aggressive, like solvent sprayed into the intake manifold, could dislodge carbon bits that will damage the downstream turbocharger. This is why Ford's only approved solution to intake valve posits is to remove the cylinder head for off-car cleaning.
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