How long for this engine to be broken in?
- Thread starter 92GTA
- Start date
- Status
I would change the oil at 500 miles and 1000 miles, but I know that would be difficult driving the car home from TX to CA. Everything should be seated and broken in by the time u get home. Syn oil should be good to go after that
Just curious was this engine balanced and blueprinted?
Originally Posted By: crazyoildude
Just curious was this engine balanced and blueprinted?
Absolutely, by one of the best race shops in TX. However in the paperwork I don't have the full blueprinting notes. I do know these clearances from the build invoice tho:
Main Clearance: .0018
Rod Clearance: .0025
That at least helps me determine the weight oil I will be running. I contacted Redline directly and after giving them the specs/clearances and telling them the builder filled with Brad Penn 15w40, David said Redline 10W40 would be perfect.
Perhaps I will contact the builder and see if he can pull all of his notes from this build and send them to me? I wonder if he even keeps them and for how long. Guess I'll message him again tomorrow and see.
Just curious was this engine balanced and blueprinted?
Absolutely, by one of the best race shops in TX. However in the paperwork I don't have the full blueprinting notes. I do know these clearances from the build invoice tho:
Main Clearance: .0018
Rod Clearance: .0025
That at least helps me determine the weight oil I will be running. I contacted Redline directly and after giving them the specs/clearances and telling them the builder filled with Brad Penn 15w40, David said Redline 10W40 would be perfect.
Perhaps I will contact the builder and see if he can pull all of his notes from this build and send them to me? I wonder if he even keeps them and for how long. Guess I'll message him again tomorrow and see.
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: demarpaint
Originally Posted By: 92GTA
Originally Posted By: bioburner
Ask the shop-builder?
The engine was completed last year so I didn't want to bother him, he does ALLOT of engines. So I figured I'd ask here.
I'd still ask him. Nice car btw. Drive it in good health.
Yup, I think I will reach out to him for a few reasons now just so my bases are covered. Thanks!
Originally Posted By: 92GTA
Originally Posted By: bioburner
Ask the shop-builder?
The engine was completed last year so I didn't want to bother him, he does ALLOT of engines. So I figured I'd ask here.
I'd still ask him. Nice car btw. Drive it in good health.
Yup, I think I will reach out to him for a few reasons now just so my bases are covered. Thanks!
Originally Posted By: 92GTA
Originally Posted By: demarpaint
Originally Posted By: 92GTA
Originally Posted By: bioburner
Ask the shop-builder?
The engine was completed last year so I didn't want to bother him, he does ALLOT of engines. So I figured I'd ask here.
I'd still ask him. Nice car btw. Drive it in good health.
Yup, I think I will reach out to him for a few reasons now just so my bases are covered. Thanks!
Smart move, and I bet he'll have all the particulars for you!
Originally Posted By: demarpaint
Originally Posted By: 92GTA
Originally Posted By: bioburner
Ask the shop-builder?
The engine was completed last year so I didn't want to bother him, he does ALLOT of engines. So I figured I'd ask here.
I'd still ask him. Nice car btw. Drive it in good health.
Yup, I think I will reach out to him for a few reasons now just so my bases are covered. Thanks!
Smart move, and I bet he'll have all the particulars for you!
I'd wait 3 to 5000 miles to switch to synthetic , i'd run Redline 10w40 in it, maybe Mobil 1 15w50
If it were mine i would drive it home on a fresh oil change and send that off for an analysis...to rule out coolant leaks, excessive bearing wear, etc. If this analysis turns out good i would go with your plan if thats what suits you.
Beat the [censored] out of it on the way back....will be ready for an oil change..
You're in TX for the leave. They've already changed it to street oil from the original dyno oil. So all you need to do is get it home.
Drop by a performance parts house and get 3 qts of VR-1 silver bottle (good performance oil you can find anywhere except Calif ... (
)and toss in the trunk. Start driving and keep an eye on consumption. Top as needed. Consumption should decline to near zero by the time you get home. If so, it's broken in
If it's still consuming oil, do not switch to Redline. Nothing wrong with the oil, but the rings are taking longer than thought ... I've had friends with built big motors that have taken close to 5K to get fully seated. That's measurable by consumption.
Once the consumption stabilizes, then you can switch to Redline if you want. Just like marine and aviation, most engine builders want dino oil there until broken in ... Myth, or not.
Drop by a performance parts house and get 3 qts of VR-1 silver bottle (good performance oil you can find anywhere except Calif ... (
If it's still consuming oil, do not switch to Redline. Nothing wrong with the oil, but the rings are taking longer than thought ... I've had friends with built big motors that have taken close to 5K to get fully seated. That's measurable by consumption.
Once the consumption stabilizes, then you can switch to Redline if you want. Just like marine and aviation, most engine builders want dino oil there until broken in ... Myth, or not.
- Joined
- Dec 30, 2006
- Messages
- 29,558
Originally Posted By: BrocLuno
You're in TX for the leave. They've already changed it to street oil from the original dyno oil. So all you need to do is get it home.
Drop by a performance parts house and get 3 qts of VR-1 silver bottle (good performance oil you can find anywhere except Calif ... (
)and toss in the trunk. Start driving and keep an eye on consumption. Top as needed. Consumption should decline to near zero by the time you get home. If so, it's broken in
If it's still consuming oil, do not switch to Redline. Nothing wrong with the oil, but the rings are taking longer than thought ... I've had friends with built big motors that have taken close to 5K to get fully seated. That's measurable by consumption.
Once the consumption stabilizes, then you can switch to Redline if you want. Just like marine and aviation, most engine builders want dino oil there until broken in ... Myth, or not.
Speaking of VR1,while you're here in Tx,drop by an O'Reilly. The ones here have 5 quart jugs of silver bottle VR1 on "clearance" for $24.
You're in TX for the leave. They've already changed it to street oil from the original dyno oil. So all you need to do is get it home.
Drop by a performance parts house and get 3 qts of VR-1 silver bottle (good performance oil you can find anywhere except Calif ... (
If it's still consuming oil, do not switch to Redline. Nothing wrong with the oil, but the rings are taking longer than thought ... I've had friends with built big motors that have taken close to 5K to get fully seated. That's measurable by consumption.
Once the consumption stabilizes, then you can switch to Redline if you want. Just like marine and aviation, most engine builders want dino oil there until broken in ... Myth, or not.
Speaking of VR1,while you're here in Tx,drop by an O'Reilly. The ones here have 5 quart jugs of silver bottle VR1 on "clearance" for $24.
Thanks for the tips on oil guys, but the seller is giving me his extra Brad Penn 15w40 that the builder filled the engine with after the dyno runs. I ordered 2 gallons of Redline 10W40 last night to have when I get back to CA.
I'm the type that will really run the engine hard with a ton of engine braking and constant varied RPM starting soon as I leave the sellers house. I want it broken in fast as possible.
I appreciate all the tips on oil consumption for knowing when she will be as broken in as she can be!
I'm the type that will really run the engine hard with a ton of engine braking and constant varied RPM starting soon as I leave the sellers house. I want it broken in fast as possible.
I appreciate all the tips on oil consumption for knowing when she will be as broken in as she can be!
Originally Posted By: Doog
Redline recommends at a minimum 3000 miles. I would wait until 5000
This or maybe 6,000 miles or so. Use a good 10W-40 or 15W-40 conventional HDEO or HM oil. Then go to syn. Although Mobil 1 10W-40 HM syn might be a good choice as its Group III (mostly) and has zinc.....
Redline recommends at a minimum 3000 miles. I would wait until 5000
This or maybe 6,000 miles or so. Use a good 10W-40 or 15W-40 conventional HDEO or HM oil. Then go to syn. Although Mobil 1 10W-40 HM syn might be a good choice as its Group III (mostly) and has zinc.....
Originally Posted By: ted s
geeze my builder said if rings didnt seat in 500 miles they never would
I've heard this, and probably true IHMO. But engines continue to break in for thousands of miles, I think most modern engines will not be fully worn in and achieve peak efficiency for 15-30,000 miles, IIRC...
geeze my builder said if rings didnt seat in 500 miles they never would
I've heard this, and probably true IHMO. But engines continue to break in for thousands of miles, I think most modern engines will not be fully worn in and achieve peak efficiency for 15-30,000 miles, IIRC...
Originally Posted By: ted s
geeze my builder said if rings didnt seat in 500 miles they never would
Thats my experience.
I typically seat the rings on a rebuild or new engine on a dyno using a sweep load for half an hour and then change oil and filter and start making pulls.
You can watch the HP pick up during the first few pulls as the rings seat fully.
UD
geeze my builder said if rings didnt seat in 500 miles they never would
Thats my experience.
I typically seat the rings on a rebuild or new engine on a dyno using a sweep load for half an hour and then change oil and filter and start making pulls.
You can watch the HP pick up during the first few pulls as the rings seat fully.
UD
Originally Posted By: Nickdfresh
Originally Posted By: ted s
geeze my builder said if rings didnt seat in 500 miles they never would
I've heard this, and probably true IHMO. But engines continue to break in for thousands of miles, I think most modern engines will not be fully worn in and achieve peak efficiency for 15-30,000 miles, IIRC...
Seated rings is pretty much step 1 of break in.
The rest happens over time slowly, but modern machining quality has radically reduced the need for extended break ins.
Originally Posted By: ted s
geeze my builder said if rings didnt seat in 500 miles they never would
I've heard this, and probably true IHMO. But engines continue to break in for thousands of miles, I think most modern engines will not be fully worn in and achieve peak efficiency for 15-30,000 miles, IIRC...
Seated rings is pretty much step 1 of break in.
The rest happens over time slowly, but modern machining quality has radically reduced the need for extended break ins.
Ring seating is usually a function of honing patterns and grit. Get it wrong and it can take 5,000 miles to get past the issue (if ever...). Do it right and they done in a couple of hours. We'll just have to wait and see ...
There's a good chance the lot boys will take care of it before an owner ever gets a car. In this case, though an aftermarket engine builder might be more old school 500 miles...
How did the road trip on the new engine go?
- Status
Similar threads
