BMW ignition key switch problem

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Well, today the key switch on the old BMW finally totally stopped working.
I needed to make some rounds at work and drove the car to an off-site complex and couldn't get the switch to engage at all with a turn of the key. I played around with the key and the steering wheel for a bit and was finally able to engage the starter.
I drove back to the main compound parking area and was careful to park on a hill.
I was unable to shut the car off using the key, so I just popped the clutch.
This killed the engine but the oil pressure, alternator and CEL lights illuminated just as they would with the key in the run position. I assumed that the fuel pump would run if needed to maintain pressure in the rail and the ignition coils were getting power as would the ECM, the controllers for the airbags, ABS and deployable roll bars as well as anything else that sees power in the run position.
I needed to make some rounds and figured that the thing would be okay for a couple of hours.
After that, I exited work for the day and decided to play around a bit to see whether I could get starter engagement.
No go, so I rolled down the hill I had parked on and slipped the clutch in using third and the car started and I drove it home.
I was hoping for this, since I didn't want to have to call my wife to drive the twenty five miles to come and get me.
Once home, I parked the car out of the way, popped the clutch to kill the engine and then went in the trunk and disconnected the battery.
My question is how difficult the replacement should be and what good sources there might be for the part. I'd naturally prefer to keep the original keys if possible. If steering wheel removal will be required, I'll farm this out to my favorite side-work guy, since I'd rather not mess with an airbag.
Anyone have any thoughts or experience?
 
No need to remove the steering wheel, just the lower steering column panel, the ignition switch is on the left side opposite the key cylinder.
There are 2 headless screws and a 2 connectors to the fuse box, you either cut a slot in the screws with a dremel and remove with a screwdriver or chisel them. Its not a hard job.
 
Danke!
This sounds a lot easier than I had feared.
The Genuine BMW part is also a lot cheaper than I had feared at less than seventy bucks shipped.
Too late now to mess with it but tomorrow is supposed to be really nice so I'll open it up then.
Once again, thanks for the helpful guidance.
I'll post what I find and how it goes.
Only two possibilities, the switch or the lock cylinder. Hoping for the former and not the latter.
 
Your Welcome, if you need a diagram PM me. The lock cylinder itself is strong and its very rare they give any trouble, you can almost bet its the switch.
 
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