ACEA A3/B3 Oil in 2010 Acura MDX?

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Starting to burn some oil, 1qt in 4.5k miles. Fortunately not nearly as bad as many 2010 X's but it will probably get worse. On another forum, someone said this heavier Euro spec oil is required to minimize oil consumption. My concern is getting adequate lubrication in my 3.7L engine designed for 5W-20 oil. Any opinions? Thanks.
 
You'll get adequate lubrication, no problem. However, I do tend to hesitate at spending money on synthetic on a vehicle that doesn't require it when it's consuming oil. Nonetheless, it's worth a shot. Alternatively, a 10w-30 HDEO might be worth a shot, or even a high mileage in a PCMO grade.

When it comes to one quart in 4500 miles, I call that fairly insignificant, but that's just me.
 
Hi OP,

I wouldn't go so far as to say that engine was designed for 5W-20, rather that 5W-20 is one of the many suitable grades, and the recommended grade in North America.

All the Honda V6 engines that I know of in Australia spec a 5W-30 oil, another suitable grade and the recommended grade here. Castrol lube guide suggest a Euro grade 5W-30 A3/B4 oil, while Valvoline lube guide suggest an ILSAC 5W-30 Dexos1 oil.

So to answer your question, yes I think your car will be fine on a Euro A3/B4 oil and I think many of those cars would already be using A3/B4 grade oils in both Australia and Europe.

BTW the standard garage / mechanic bulk fill oil here in Australia is a Semi-Synthetic 10W-40 SN & A3/B4 oil. Name any car sold in Australia, and that's most of the common cars, and half of them would be driving around on 10W40 A3/B4, most of the car owners would not know or care. They just get an oil change and drive on. Typical OCI here is 10,000KM (6k miles) or 12 months on 10W40 A3/B4 regardless of what the manual says. It's just what many people do.
 
Make sure the crank case vent or valve is working correctly (Google balloon test), as a blocked CCV will increase the oil consumption.
If the CCV is OK, then move up one grade to an Xw30. I would only use an HM oil or stop leak additive if you have any oil leaks.
 
Try a 5W-30 or a 0w-40! What gives you the idea the engine was designed for a 5W-20 oil? The oil consumption really isn't bad. but try a heavier oil.
 
Well Garak, SR5, Olas and CT8 hit this right on the head of the proverbial nail. Roll on with the ACEA A3B4 and see how it does.
 
What's the latest thinking on plain old PYB, appropriate weight, in a case like this? Or has that formulation changed again? Just askin.
 
Originally Posted By: artbuc
Starting to burn some oil, 1qt in 4.5k miles. Fortunately not nearly as bad as many 2010 X's but it will probably get worse. On another forum, someone said this heavier Euro spec oil is required to minimize oil consumption. My concern is getting adequate lubrication in my 3.7L engine designed for 5W-20 oil. Any opinions? Thanks.

Get Castrol 0W30 in AutoZone when it comes on sale. It is ACEA A3/B3 B4, but not as thick as 0W40 oils, still on thick side of W30 oils.
 
^^^
Is GC still around for some of you guys? It's pretty much nonexistent down here in Central Texas. I ran through my stash that I bought for a $1/quart last oil change.
 
Originally Posted By: CT8
Try a 5W-30 or a 0w-40! What gives you the idea the engine was designed for a 5W-20 oil? The oil consumption really isn't bad. but try a heavier oil.


I should have said it is the recommended oil. I really do not know what engine was designed for which is why I am asking question. I am concerned heavier oil may not lubricate as well as 5W-20.
 
I didn't have a mini-stroke when I asked about the PYB. What is the requirement here for A3/B3 - B4 in this situation? OP is really not burning any oil so probably no need to go HDEO. I've listened to others who changed away from synthetic to conventional and, as long as the OCI's were reasonable (NOACK), were often successful reducing consumption. Or maybe I simply misunderstood.
 
Originally Posted By: DeepFriar
I didn't have a mini-stroke when I asked about the PYB. What is the requirement here for A3/B3 - B4 in this situation? OP is really not burning any oil so probably no need to go HDEO. I've listened to others who changed away from synthetic to conventional and, as long as the OCI's were reasonable (NOACK), were often successful reducing consumption. Or maybe I simply misunderstood.


Actually I am burning 1qt per 4.5k miles, although some responses say this is inconsequential. I have owned many Toyota and Lexus vehicles over the past 40+ years and none of them burned a drop even at high mileage.
 
In the end, you have to be satisfied with the consumption. I've had a few bad leakers and a few bad burners over the years. When I was able to go a severe service OCI without adding, that's when I called in inconsequential. What oil change interval do you customarily follow?
 
Originally Posted By: Garak
In the end, you have to be satisfied with the consumption. I've had a few bad leakers and a few bad burners over the years. When I was able to go a severe service OCI without adding, that's when I called in inconsequential. What oil change interval do you customarily follow?


Every 5k except now down to 4.5k as I refuse to add a qt so close to an oil change.
 
That's not so bad. That's tended to be my philosophy over the years, too, not wanting to add so close to an OCI. I'd say it can't hurt to try an A3/B4 type oil of whatever brand and viscosity suits your fancy. Do stick with it, though, for at least a couple OCIs.
 
Originally Posted By: artbuc
Actually I am burning 1qt per 4.5k miles, although some responses say this is inconsequential. I have owned many Toyota and Lexus vehicles over the past 40+ years and none of them burned a drop even at high mileage.


I understand. That has been generally my experience as well unlike the German ones that burn a little by design it seems. Like others I would recommend going a little heavier and keep watch on it.
 
Originally Posted By: artbuc
Originally Posted By: DeepFriar
I didn't have a mini-stroke when I asked about the PYB. What is the requirement here for A3/B3 - B4 in this situation? OP is really not burning any oil so probably no need to go HDEO. I've listened to others who changed away from synthetic to conventional and, as long as the OCI's were reasonable (NOACK), were often successful reducing consumption. Or maybe I simply misunderstood.


Actually I am burning 1qt per 4.5k miles, although some responses say this is inconsequential. I have owned many Toyota and Lexus vehicles over the past 40+ years and none of them burned a drop even at high mileage.


Sorry I missed the 1 qt part when I read this thread, as that is not a high enough consumption rate to justify moving up to an Xw40.
Many modern engines use higher ring tensions to allow the use of thin oils without it resulting in higher oil consumption. That results in the rings not lasting as long as they should, particularly if cheap oil that lacks Moly and Boron AW additives is used, or the OCI is a tad too long.

I would just change oil to a FS that has a reputation for keeping the rings clean. Ultra might be top of that list, but M1 or Edge will also do a good job if they have the correct API or Acea specs. Just use the oil finder page of the relevant web site.
 
Originally Posted By: artbuc
Starting to burn some oil, 1qt in 4.5k miles. Fortunately not nearly as bad as many 2010 X's but it will probably get worse. On another forum, someone said this heavier Euro spec oil is required to minimize oil consumption. My concern is getting adequate lubrication in my 3.7L engine designed for 5W-20 oil. Any opinions? Thanks.


Once it starts burning oil, it will only get worse for these J37. Castrol Germany recommends 0W-40. China MDX recommends 5W-30, 0W-30/0W-40/5W-40 alternative. Acura/Honda is aggressive recommending 5W-20 grade for the MDX or the J37. Notice how Acura revised their oil viscosity chart to allow 0W-20 for other models except the J37.

My '11 MDX was burning 1Quart/1200 miles with PUPPP 5W-20. I'm currently using QSUD 5W-30. Now, I'm getting about 1quart/2000 miles. My next oil change will be CG 0W-40. Your MDX will love you for feeding it with 5W-30.
 
Originally Posted By: UltrafanUK
I would just change oil to a FS that has a reputation for keeping the rings clean.


Sorry for being dense but what is FS oil?
 
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