How far have you come on BITOG

[Solarent]

Yesterday was my 5 year anniversary as a BITOG member. This was my first post:

Originally Posted By: Solarent
I realize this may be not your typical first post response (as I recently joined the forum) but I wanted to weigh in with chubbs1 + Q:

Adding Boron is not as simple as just going to your local chemical company and picking up some various borates or borated sulphonates and mixing it in with your oil (unless of course you are a lubricant blender).

Resampling and checking the accuracy of your test is the best way to go; a loss of 8ppm of boron could be a result of filtering as some of the boron found in the virgin oil may also have operated as a detergent acting on some of the contaminants you wanted removed.

If you want to increase your boron levels then you need an oil with more boron in it to begin with (like chubbs1 said).

There are additives that also contain boron, but they are few and far between and if your wear is properly under control then don't worry too much about it (reliable additive companies that do use boron usually aren't advertising it). Remember that boron is part of only one of about 5 EP/AW compounds that are used in your oil.

There are several good threads on Boron on this site if you want more info.

All in all - just monitor your wear, knowing that your boron levels are a low. So keep that in mind while doing your sampling and watch for a trend.


It got me thinking about how far I have come in that short time. If you asked me 10 years ago if I would be regularly visiting and posting on a site for engine oil enthusiasts I would have told you that you were crazy.

Go back and look at your first post and put it here in a quote box so we can see how far you have come!

 

[OVERKILL]

My first post:

Originally Posted By: OVERKILL
I had been curious about the Mobil Delvac Xtreme Grease, anybody have any experience with it?

 

[Rolla07]

My first post:
Originally Posted By: Rolla07
Hi I am new to these forms, spent quite some time just looking around, checking out used oil analysis' and just seeing what the site has to offer. I have been trying to come to a conclusion about the type of oil to use in my 2007 Corolla with the 1ZZFE engine. Til now, I have just been getting my oil changed at the dealer with conventional 5W30 oil, and OEM oil filter. No issues with my Corolla at all, no consumption etc. I have been planning to switch over to a 0W30 M1 oil for during winter here in Montreal. I have also been doing research about other options, such as 0W20. I contacted Toyota Canada twice about this, and thought I would share their responses with you.


Joined 11 days after you Solarent!

 

[wemay]

My first post, 11/1/12

Quote:
Hello everyone. Knowing that the Evolution requires (from factory) 5W30 synthetic, why do you think Mitsu of America and Mitsubishi Japan (i emailed them as well) only require 5W30 conventional oil for the Ralliart. Same 4B11T engine, just detuned (240hp vs 290hp and 253 ft/lbs vs 300 for Evo). My area dealers echo this requirement. i live in Mami, Fl. Car is a daily driver with 36k miles, 50/50 hwy/city, OCI is 3750 mile. I know the newer conventional oils are great but i would like to here your opinion's as i am comfounded. Thanks. crazy

 

[Virtus_Probi]

My first post, 6/25/15;

Quote:
I happened to find these test results before I did my first change in my Forester XT and was surprised by the differences in cold viscosity.
http://www.pqiamerica.com/March2013PCMO/Marchsyntheticsallfinal.html
Was planning to try Royal Purple and that cold number really turned me off...Amsoil isn't too much better. Amsoil's NOACK % is good, but not great. It certainly might have other outstanding properties that are not captured in these tests.
Thought the Pennzoil Ultra looked fantastic by this table, but they don't seem to make that oil anymore (at least for the US). Am trying to make up my mind between sticking with Mobil 1 or Quaker State Ultimate Durability...Formula Shell would also be in the mix if I could find it in 5 quart bottles at a reasonable price.


Haven't changed at all, still obsess about NOACK and CCS viscosity...well, now I also have LSPI to freak out about.
Ended up running M1, QSUD, back to M1, M1 ESP, back to M1, and now planning M1 EP for winter and M1 ESP for warm weather (all 5W30).
When I made the above post, I did not even realize there were different types of Amsoil...another poster called me on it and drove me to find out that Amsoil SS 5W30 did, in fact, have some extremely impressive analysis results.

 

[Nick1994]

My first post:

Originally Posted By: Nick1994
I have a 96' Chevy C1500 5.7L with 151k on it, runs great, last oil change was with Castrol GTX HM 10w30 and a Wix filter, I've heard great things about GTX HM & Valvoline Maxlife and not sure which to use, I know this question has been asked 1,000,000 times but which would you use on a Vortec 350? Both are identical price, and I live in Phoenix so it'll be getting to 110-115 this summer. I've been running 4-5k OCI too. Thanks.


I rarely ask for recommendations on oil now, unless it's something unfamiliar.

I have learned that oil is oil, it really doesn't matter if I use Pennzoil Platinum or Mobil 1 in my car. It'll run just as long regardless.

 

[Shannow]

December 2002, after we migrated from the old server and had to re deign up.

Originally Posted By: Shannow
The RPM Borate gear lube is a "Caltex" product. (Caltex have a 5 pointed star green/red logo, and sell a fuel additive called techron).

the quote is almost a dead ringer for their 2000 lubricant catalogue

 

[Quattro Pete]

14 years ago:

Originally Posted By: Quattro Pete
The oil in my 1.8T engine reaches approx. 180F after about 20 minutes of driving during winter (outside temps. in the 30s and 40s), and after about 15 minutes of driving during summer.

Also, during winter, my oil temp pretty much does not go above 180-185F, and in summer, does not go above 200F. I've been told by a number of people (with 1.8T engines) that these temps are too low, and that my temps should be in the 200-225F range. Apparently, that's what their temps are. Do I have anything to worry about? Thanks!

 

[gfh77665]

Here is mine:

Originally Posted By: gfh77665
Hello all. First time poster here (new member). I need some of your informed opinions, please:

My Dad passed away, and I inherited his 97 Chevy truck, with 4.3L V6, and only 24K miles. This was about a year and a half ago. Double dose of Stabil in gas tank. My daughter will be going off to college with my car next summer, so, I am storing Dads truck, and starting it for 20 minuits once a month, until I bring it home next summer. It has always had Mobil 1 since new, and had fresh change and filter just before storage.

Will the 20 minuite run intervals, with revving up to 2000 RPM to simulate highway driving, be adequate? The Stabil is taking care of the gas, will the Mobil 1 last another year OK? Is a change upon putting it in service be all I need? Is the filter holding up (being saturated in oil) OK? Any thoughts are welcome, thanks.



Seriously, I have become very well educated about storing vehicles.

 

[pandus13]

Sorry, i was really (cross-my-heart really) not going for Pablo(Our Amsoil sponsor). But it was the time of the great Oil Wars....
still got chewed in the thread...
Originally Posted By: pandus13
10/14/11 04:50 PM Not another Amway/MLM war topic
Hi Guys,

Do you know who makes the Synthetic oil for Amway?
I am NOT involved with them.
I just need to know for my general knowledge.
Thank you for your time and for your civilized replies.

Pandus13

P.S.Moderator, if you think this will became just another war/flame topic please delete the topic.

 

[CarbonSteel]

The post below was from a little over 6 years ago. The 2010 did not make the 8+ years I anticipated (needed more truck to pull a larger 5'er), but I shared all of the UOA data from every fluid change in it, which I hope helped some along the way. I did learn to go from a 5K OCI to more than a 15K OCI and managed to put 160K miles (of which 45% of those were towing) on the 2010 before I waved goodbye to it:

Originally Posted By: 2015_PSD
Guys and Gals,

I have spent some time (4 days) parsing through all of the information on BITOG regarding the different viewpoints and experiences regarding the various brands of synthetic oils. I recently bought a new truck and wanted some thoughts about the oil I should use (without starting an “argument”).

Here some basic information:

Vehicle is a 2010 Ford F-150 FX4 with a 5.4L FFV engine and it currently has 8 years).

Manufacturer’s specification is 5W-20 oil meeting Ford specification WSS-M2C930-A. The severe duty OCI is 5,000 miles and the normal duty OCI is 7,500 miles. I will use the severe duty OCI recommended by Ford and will document everything. I plan to use Motorcraft FL-820S filters and will be performing regular UOA to verify wear and other issues.

Driving Habits and Location:

I tend to drive somewhat spirited, commuting about 60 miles daily (round trip) and this is combination of highway (60% meaning speeds above 45) and city (40% meaning speeds below 45) with some stop and go driving in between. I live in the Houston area where temperatures are above 85 for more than ½ of the year and dust is somewhat prevalent.

I am less concerned about extended OCI or oil cost (within reason) as I am about protecting the $40K investment that I just made + I have a 6/100K B2B Ford ESP warranty. I can currently buy 7 quarts of M1 for ~$35 or 7 quarts of PU for ~$40 (these seem to be 2 of the most popular oils discussed here). I will remove the factory fill at 1,000 miles (yes, it may be a waste, but I do not want the metal from break-in flying around in there) and replace it with “X” (decided based upon your opinions—do Ford engines prefer a particular oil?).

With all of this in mind, I am considering these 5 oils and would appreciate any and all input:

- Motorcraft Synthetic Blend
- Motorcraft Full Synthetic
- Kendall GT-1 Full Synthetic w/ Titanium
- Pennzoil Ultra
- Mobil 1

Thanks in advance for your time and advice!

 

[supton]

My first post was about changing the oil on our Civic--wanted to change it the way I had always done my VW (topside). Never did change oil on that car, in that case a friend basically jumped in and did the work for me. Looks like I was here sporadically for a bit, starting in the end of 2008, not coming back until end of 2011, and haven't left since.

'bout the only thing I've learned is today, oil is oil. I suppose if you have something hard on oil it might not be; but since selecting plain jane vehicles I've come to realize it just doesn't matter. Same goes for most other auto topics. Hasn't stopped me from overanalyzing things, though.

 

[440Magnum]

Hah! This turned out kinda funny for me. My first post was a question about "replacement" additives and chemistries to substitute for decreasing ZDDP. And it's never been answered (not really, anyway) in nearly 8 years.

First Post, Feb 2009

 

[Papa Bear]

https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/150471/Re:_TNN_and_Nascar_Race_08-21-#Post150471

 

[Tomioka]

This was the first topic I made. Thought I would contribute a VOA to those who were curious about RP 5W20 SL (before they went HPS and jacked up the price). Been here for almost 9 years (under an old alias.)

 

[mazdamonky]

My first post! Buahahaha

https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/3942044/STP_33787A-5500_miles_(first_f#Post3942044

 

[Rick in PA]

Just for grins & giggles I looked it up, January '03:

Originally Posted By: Rick in PA
This is my first post at this site. I've been "noodling around" the site for a couple of weeks and have learned much, thank you.

I've been changing my own oil since I started to drive, 30 odd years ago, and have a few tips. I hope they are useful (and not "old hat").

I know you're suppost to recycle the old oil filter, but in reality it gets thrown out. I never liked the idea of sending the oil trapped in the oil filter to the landfill where it would slowly leak out and add to contamination at the landfill, so I try to drain it out. I added a nail, about 1/8" diameter, to my oil change kit. Punch one hole at the base of the old oil filter and one hole at the top of the old oil filter. That trapped oil comes wizzing right out. Usually a cup or so of oil comes out. That's a little less oil in the landfill, good for the environment.

 

[gathermewool]

My first:

Originally Posted By: gathermewool
Currently have 3700 miles, with the first oil change from factory fill done ~100 miles ago. I sent out for a UOA, and will post up the results.

To the question: I want to change over to a full synth (i.e., Redline, Amsoil, etc) after ~10k on the motor, and have been researching to figure out what the best, most economical choice might be. I'm looking for extra protection with extended drain intervals, but after speaking with an Amsoil rep I'm not so sure. He said that due to the turbo oil supply line having a screen filter, they do NOT recommend extending OCI past the factory established 3750 miles

Any input would be greatly appreciated. I'll be running Wolf's Head Super Duty 5W-30 in the mean time.

 

[SirTanon]

My first, on 6/25/14:

Originally Posted By: SirTanon
Mobil Super 5000 5qt Jug = $13 at WalMart
Motorcraft filter ( or Fram or Purolator ) = $4 at WalMart

For $17 you got a great combo any day of the week. Why bother with rebate?


I'd say my overall understanding of motor oil, filters, and just overall maintenance, etc.. has improved greatly during my time on BITOG

 

[Slick17601]

I've been here since 2004 and before that with a user that I lost the credentials for. In fact, many of us used to congregate on the Edmunds boards when Bob fired this one up. The sad thing is this board is a mere shadow of its former self. We used to have some very knowledgable folks here but they have moved on.