1.4T VW oil changes

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Hello everyone, the gf just got her a new 1.4T 2016 VW jetta.

I kinda dig it, got it pretty cheap since MY17 are out.


Looking over the OCI it seems that 10k is where the dealers want it to be. Maybe its just making it easy to remember or there is some fact to it. Being the car has only 6 miles when we bought it, i think i'm going to drain the at 5k and leave the filter. Take it to the dealership at 10k, to have it in the books. I'm oil school thinking, i dont think i've gone longer that 5k on anything. This car most likely is a 10 year car to say the least. What oils work with this motor?

Also, could this motor work via vacuum suction for the oil? Mityvac 8701?
 
Whether a 10k oci is ok or not would largely depend on driving patterns, IMO. For example, if you are mostly short tripping, then it might be tough. But then there is the 1 year time limit as well.

As for oil, stick with something that meets vw 502.00 spec and call it a day. No need to overthink it.

Congrats on a new ride.
 
Originally Posted By: bowlofturtle
Hello everyone, the gf just got her a new 1.4T 2016 VW jetta.

I kinda dig it, got it pretty cheap since MY17 are out.


Looking over the OCI it seems that 10k is where the dealers want it to be. Maybe its just making it easy to remember or there is some fact to it. Being the car has only 6 miles when we bought it, i think i'm going to drain the at 5k and leave the filter. Take it to the dealership at 10k, to have it in the books. I'm oil school thinking, i dont think i've gone longer that 5k on anything. This car most likely is a 10 year car to say the least. What oils work with this motor?

Also, could this motor work via vacuum suction for the oil? Mityvac 8701?

Congrats on new ride.
Short OCI to 7.5K at least. 1.4T was most problematic in Euorpe of all TSI engines, that is why it was not here before. That is also good thing because they suppose to solve majority of these issues.
Use Castrol 0W40, cheap, and probably best for Euro gassers.
 
Originally Posted By: edyvw
Originally Posted By: bowlofturtle
Hello everyone, the gf just got her a new 1.4T 2016 VW jetta.

I kinda dig it, got it pretty cheap since MY17 are out.


Looking over the OCI it seems that 10k is where the dealers want it to be. Maybe its just making it easy to remember or there is some fact to it. Being the car has only 6 miles when we bought it, i think i'm going to drain the at 5k and leave the filter. Take it to the dealership at 10k, to have it in the books. I'm oil school thinking, i dont think i've gone longer that 5k on anything. This car most likely is a 10 year car to say the least. What oils work with this motor?

Also, could this motor work via vacuum suction for the oil? Mityvac 8701?

Congrats on new ride.
Short OCI to 7.5K at least. 1.4T was most problematic in Euorpe of all TSI engines, that is why it was not here before. That is also good thing because they suppose to solve majority of these issues.
Use Castrol 0W40, cheap, and probably best for Euro gassers.


It's no longer twin charged, and that solved most of the issues.

Castrol 0W-40 is probably the best choice of oil for your car, period.

I'm a fan of the maintenance minder but I usually get out-voted.

Enjoy the new ride, post some pictures when you have a chance!

I don't know why I rapid-fired this post. Cheers!
 
Originally Posted By: Quattro Pete
Whether a 10k oci is ok or not would largely depend on driving patterns, IMO. For example, if you are mostly short tripping, then it might be tough. But then there is the 1 year time limit as well.

As for oil, stick with something that meets vw 502.00 spec and call it a day. No need to overthink it.

Congrats on a new ride.


Its 10 miles quick burst on the highway. Mainly putting around town.

The good thing tho, i can retire my G35 as the road-trip car because the jetta gets double my MPG and "SHOULD" be more reliable.


I found this that might be helpful to others with a VW motor.

https://www.audiusa.com/content/dam/audiusa/Documents/Audi-1997-2016-Technical-Service-Bulletin.pdf

Should be a solid list of 502.00 and 504.00 oils. I'm going to go with the cheapest/easiest to find once i do the homework on what that actually is.

Will post pictures soon.
 
Originally Posted By: bowlofturtle
Originally Posted By: Quattro Pete
Whether a 10k oci is ok or not would largely depend on driving patterns, IMO. For example, if you are mostly short tripping, then it might be tough. But then there is the 1 year time limit as well.

As for oil, stick with something that meets vw 502.00 spec and call it a day. No need to overthink it.

Congrats on a new ride.


Its 10 miles quick burst on the highway. Mainly putting around town.

The good thing tho, i can retire my G35 as the road-trip car because the jetta gets double my MPG and "SHOULD" be more reliable.


I found this that might be helpful to others with a VW motor.

https://www.audiusa.com/content/dam/audiusa/Documents/Audi-1997-2016-Technical-Service-Bulletin.pdf

Should be a solid list of 502.00 and 504.00 oils. I'm going to go with the cheapest/easiest to find once i do the homework on what that actually is.

Will post pictures soon.

VW/Audi issues list and then use one of the worst oils on the list as their go to oil in dealerships.
Local Wal Mart, get M1 0W40 FS or Castrol 0W40. You will hardly get better then that on the list or off the list.
 
Short OCI to 10K IMO.
Do not use vacuum suction for the oil.
Use a VW502.00 or VW504.00 engine oil.
 
Last edited:
Vacuum suction sucks... Literally
smile.gif


You will get most of your old oil out...but that way you will also left all residues inside the engine...
 
Originally Posted By: Kamele0N
You will get most of your old oil out...but that way you will also left all residues inside the engine...

What residue? Wouldn't it have been captured by the oil filter already?

Oil extraction success is very much engine dependent. In some engines, after you extract the oil from the top, you can unscrew the oil plug and nothing else will come out.
 
In some...but "we" dont know wich (VAG?) engines are those...
smile.gif


Smart mk1 has that tehnical flaw... Even if you are doing OCI through oil drain plug there will still stay some old oil in its oil pan... And because of that with every OCI engine gets dirtier and sludgier... Eventually engine siezed up (usually just when it was out of warranty).
smile.gif


There were no official TSB how to cure that flaw... Mechanics invented it by "themselfs". The solution is that you drill new drain plug in existing oil pan and you weld nut on that hole for drain plug ...this time on the lowest part of your oil pan... So that you can drain ALL old oil out of your engine... And that way your rebuilt engine will never sieze again...

Lesson learned?
smile.gif
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: Kamele0N
In some...but "we" dont know wich (VAG?) engines are those...
smile.gif


Yes, in some, so let's not make blanket statements that oil extraction "sucks"/does not work across the board.

If the OP already has an extractor, then he can easily test it for himself.
 
Originally Posted By: Kamele0N
In some...but "we" dont know wich (VAG?) engines are those...
smile.gif


Smart mk1 has that tehnical flaw... Even if you are doing OCI through oil drain plug there will still stay some old oil in its oil pan... And because of that with every OCI engine gets dirtier and sludgier... Eventually engine siezed up (usually just when it was out of warranty).
smile.gif


There were no official TSB how to cure that flaw... Mechanics invented it by "themselfs". The solution is that you drill new drain plug in existing oil pan and you weld nut on that hole for drain plug ...this time on the lowest part of your oil pan... So that you can drain ALL old oil out of your engine... And that way your rebuilt engine will never sieze again...

Lesson learned?
smile.gif



WHAT are you talking about? There are plenty of mk1s running around with over a half million miles! Heck, mine went to 400k+ before I pulled the engine to go G60. Clean as a whistle inside.
 
whether you drain or suck the oil, you're always going to have residual oil in the engine. That residual oil will protect the engine during the initial startup and fill of the oil filter.
 
I never had any issues when using the suction tube on my Jaguar.

That was the way Jag designed the engine, it had no dipstick but rather a suction pipe. You only needed to attach the auction to the top of the pipe, not insert a pipe down into the sump.

I would get nearly 6.5 litre out every time.
 
I use suction on all of my German vehicles. MB actually mentions that as an approved method in the maintenance manuals. Have used it on my sisters 94 Lumina. Gets just as much oil as drain plug.
Advantages:
No need for ramps or jacks
No need to remove covers on underside of engine
No need for new crush washers
No danger of wearing out or stripping drain plug threads
ENTIRE OC can be done standing up!

Disadvantage
MAYBE missing a couple of ounces of used oil, which are already on every surface of the engine.

I like your idea of a DIY OCI between the required 10k factory one. I do that on my 2011 Bi-Turbo diesel.
DIY OCI for it is How many "unnecessary" oil changes could I pay for compared to the cost of replace/repair turbo? Probably at LEAST 20 YEARS worth!
smile.gif


Stick to your plan. Sounds good to me, FWIW.
 
I'm a fan of early oil changes too. 5K miles here though is over 8000kms, which to me seems like a lot of kms. I suppose if it does have one of those Oil Life Monitor things, then you could rely on that.

But the 5K oci is cheap insurance. I'd change the filter too though, with a genuine one of course (as it's under warranty and you don't want them making excuses if anything happens).
 
Originally Posted By: KL31
I'm a fan of early oil changes too. 5K miles here though is over 8000kms, which to me seems like a lot of kms. I suppose if it does have one of those Oil Life Monitor things, then you could rely on that.

But the 5K oci is cheap insurance. I'd change the filter too though, with a genuine one of course (as it's under warranty and you don't want them making excuses if anything happens).


No oil monitor. It's fixed intervals.
 
If you had an Audi with that engine, the first oil and filter change would be at 5k. Won't hurt you to change it early the first two times (5 & 10k) which was specified on VW cars prior to the carefree maintenance program. Get the jug of 0w40 from Walmart or Advance Auto Parts and a Mann (OE) filter, or a Purolator Boss (Mann fleece filter) if they have one for your engine at the time from Advance Auto.
 
use a vac to refresh a OIC, quick & clean, the old oil will suspend tiny particles..autos, sleds, watercraft and atv's very handy.
 
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