Honda K24 Valve Cover Pics

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2004 Honda Accord, 5 speed - Replaced the valve cover gasket which was leaking a little bit. Took the opportunity to check the valves and most were perfect at 100k miles (I had adjusted them previously at about 50K). Pretty clean I think. I'm the original owner and have used a lot of different oils over the life of the car. Current fill is Castrol Edge 5w/20 synthetic.




 
Keep doing what your doing! That is clean as a whistle. As oldhp posted, PM is a wonderful thing!

Edit: what is your OCI?
 
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When adjusting the valves do you check with the cam off the lifters, no tension? I was reading somewhere a guy took out the sparkplugs and used the power steering pully to turn the engine vs using the crank pully.

Our K24 is at 151K and haven't checked the valves.
 
Great engine and I prefer it over the V6. Check oil level weekly or biweekly and replace the pcv valve every 60k miles with an oem version. The internal spring breaks around that mileage. Skip the universal fit aftermarket ones from China with thinner interal springs that need replacement every 30k. Otherwise these engines can turn into oil gobblers if not maintained properly.
 
thanks for taking the time to post these pictures up


On the PCV statement above---I am coming up on 244K, In May, I pulled the original PCV for the first time look---all is well, I put it right back in the block
Steve
 
Originally Posted By: gregk24
Keep doing what your doing! That is clean as a whistle. As oldhp posted, PM is a wonderful thing!

Edit: what is your OCI?


Thanks! My average OCI is 3722 miles and I've never gone over 5k miles on a change. I used GTX 5/20 while it was under warranty but after that I've tried a variety of oils, mostly 5/30 weights. I know, it's pretty excessive for an engine this easy on the oil but I'll admit, I'm a compulsive oil changer!
 
Originally Posted By: ARB1977
When adjusting the valves do you check with the cam off the lifters, no tension? I was reading somewhere a guy took out the sparkplugs and used the power steering pully to turn the engine vs using the crank pully.

Our K24 is at 151K and haven't checked the valves.


Yes, cam off the lifters. This time I used the power steering pump trick and adjusted when the cam lobe was opposite the followers. The last time I did the socket on the crank method and adjusted with each piston at TDC. Using the the power steering pump is a lot easier and works just fine.

I've heard some stories about some of these K24 engines burning valves fairly early... soft valve seats or something. But mine really haven't changed much. The first time I adjusted was just to eliminate the small amount of valve noise I was hearing which bugged me. If you go towards the high end of the valve clearance it gets kind of noisy on these engines. Set it to the lower end and they are nice and quiet!
 
Very clean and check me if I'm wrong, but are the cam lifters showing some wear?
 
Originally Posted By: Kuato
Very clean and check me if I'm wrong, but are the cam lifters showing some wear?


My K24 cam lobes looked like this at 101K & I switched over to 5-30 & 10-30 oils. At 244K it looks the same
Steve
 
Originally Posted By: steve20
Originally Posted By: Kuato
Very clean and check me if I'm wrong, but are the cam lifters showing some wear?


My K24 cam lobes looked like this at 101K & I switched over to 5-30 & 10-30 oils. At 244K it looks the same
Steve


Seems like all the cams I've seen pictures of show that sort of streaking/wear pattern. Maybe somebody can tell us if that's normal wear or something else...
 
I think the only time I've seen a cam with absolutely no roller trails was in that old classic Royal Purple thread with the Mustang cam. Wasn't that one of the longest ever running threads here?
 
Originally Posted By: Scout1
If you go towards the high end of the valve clearance it gets kind of noisy on these engines. Set it to the lower end and they are nice and quiet!


And that's the wrong way to adjust valves, unless you are planning on checking them more frequently.
As the valve face and seat wear away, the clearance spec gets even tighter, which if you don't catch it, can lead to damaged parts.

Also, on smaller engines, like motorcycles, valves settings that are too tight can lead to hard starting issues when the engines are hot.

Its always better to set it closer to the larger gap setting in the specs.

BC.
 
Originally Posted By: Bladecutter


And that's the wrong way to adjust valves, unless you are planning on checking them more frequently.
As the valve face and seat wear away, the clearance spec gets even tighter, which if you don't catch it, can lead to damaged parts.

BC.


Right you are, however when set mid to higher end of the tolerance, my engine made an annoying valve tap when warming up. I hated that so I went with the tighter clearance and that's why I'm re-checking it frequently. It's a trade off. That's also why I was curious if any had changed much in the last 50k miles and happy to say, all were very close to where I had set them. I only loosened a couple of valves and had to tighten a couple. Not changing clearance too rapidly which is nice to know...
 
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