I'm thinking this can wait until next summer right before inspection time in July.
P 135 code oxygen sensor heater element
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Ohm the heater in the O2 sensor first. If you get lucky the heater in the senior is toast and a new sensor fixes the problem.
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Originally Posted By: punisher
Ohm the heater in the O2 sensor first. If you get lucky the heater in the senior is toast and a new sensor fixes the problem.
This. Test two black leads from sensor with ohm meter. Also check the heater circuit power and grounds.
You don't want to buy an expensive sensor only to find out you have a wire melted to your cat or something.
Ohm the heater in the O2 sensor first. If you get lucky the heater in the senior is toast and a new sensor fixes the problem.
This. Test two black leads from sensor with ohm meter. Also check the heater circuit power and grounds.
You don't want to buy an expensive sensor only to find out you have a wire melted to your cat or something.
Check the fusefor the heater sensor circuit befpre anything
Oh and youll be driving in open loop allthe time.
Usually the heater fails internally. Wiring rarely is the cause. Diagnose it properly as others said, but you will 95% have to replace the sensor. As stated above, you will be in open loop more such as at idle but when running it will be hot enough to go back closed loop. The open loop status is reason enough to replace it NOW and not wait.
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If its bad change it before winter, you could have fuel dilution issues in the winter months.
If a bad O2 sensor results in dumping excess fuel into the engine isn't the cat working harder?
My bad O2 sensor resulted in a huge increase in fuel consumption.
My bad O2 sensor resulted in a huge increase in fuel consumption.
oxygen sensors aren't that expensive, and usually easy enough to replace. In addition, a bad oxygen sensor can cause poor gas mileage.
Originally Posted By: GMBoy
Usually the heater fails internally. Wiring rarely is the cause. Diagnose it properly as others said, but you will 95% have to replace the sensor. As stated above, you will be in open loop more such as at idle but when running it will be hot enough to go back closed loop. The open loop status is reason enough to replace it NOW and not wait.
That's been my experience with this as well. Luckily I've never found faulty wiring to the sensor. Still have to check it though.
Usually the heater fails internally. Wiring rarely is the cause. Diagnose it properly as others said, but you will 95% have to replace the sensor. As stated above, you will be in open loop more such as at idle but when running it will be hot enough to go back closed loop. The open loop status is reason enough to replace it NOW and not wait.
That's been my experience with this as well. Luckily I've never found faulty wiring to the sensor. Still have to check it though.
Originally Posted By: GMBoy
As stated above, you will be in open loop more such as at idle but when running it will be hot enough to go back closed loop.
I did some searching on it last night and someone said after 2 minutes it's a non issue. Thats why i wouldnt be in a hurry. Id rather work on the trans am.
As stated above, you will be in open loop more such as at idle but when running it will be hot enough to go back closed loop.
I did some searching on it last night and someone said after 2 minutes it's a non issue. Thats why i wouldnt be in a hurry. Id rather work on the trans am.
I have been told that with Denso sensors, the most likely cause is an open circuit inside the sensor, and just replacing the sensor is enough.
Do not delay replacing the O2 sensor. You will burn excess fuel and create excess smog. The excessive smog hurts the catalytic converter. Introducing cars with oxygen sensors during the late 70s and early 80s (Along with several other smog devices) reduced the number of meltdowns of catalytic converters.
Do not delay replacing the O2 sensor. You will burn excess fuel and create excess smog. The excessive smog hurts the catalytic converter. Introducing cars with oxygen sensors during the late 70s and early 80s (Along with several other smog devices) reduced the number of meltdowns of catalytic converters.
Originally Posted By: turtlevette
Originally Posted By: GMBoy
As stated above, you will be in open loop more such as at idle but when running it will be hot enough to go back closed loop.
I did some searching on it last night and someone said after 2 minutes it's a non issue. Thats why i wouldnt be in a hurry. Id rather work on the trans am.
Hook up a scan tool and you will quickly see that's not the case 100%. In the winter, at idle and slow driving the temps in the exhaust can drop below the thresehold where the heater is needed briefly to warm it up. I've seen it.
As others have said - the part is not expensive and easy to replace. No need to wait if you can afford the part now.
Originally Posted By: GMBoy
As stated above, you will be in open loop more such as at idle but when running it will be hot enough to go back closed loop.
I did some searching on it last night and someone said after 2 minutes it's a non issue. Thats why i wouldnt be in a hurry. Id rather work on the trans am.
Hook up a scan tool and you will quickly see that's not the case 100%. In the winter, at idle and slow driving the temps in the exhaust can drop below the thresehold where the heater is needed briefly to warm it up. I've seen it.
As others have said - the part is not expensive and easy to replace. No need to wait if you can afford the part now.
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Now I'm getting a second code that said oxygen sensor no signal. I reset it and we'll see if it comes back.
I see Bosch sensors on eBay for around 20 bucks. I suspect these things are going to be frozen in pretty good. I'm not looking forward to doing this.
I see Bosch sensors on eBay for around 20 bucks. I suspect these things are going to be frozen in pretty good. I'm not looking forward to doing this.
Update
Just went to the grocery store and the check engine light is out. The reader says it should be out, but still shows 2 instances of the 135 code.
Just went to the grocery store and the check engine light is out. The reader says it should be out, but still shows 2 instances of the 135 code.
Indeed, the heater inside the sensor is going or almost gone. Put penetrating oil on it, make sure to use the correct O2 sensor removal wrench (auto store rent it free) and it should come out with little bit of struggle. But DO NOT use open end wrench or adjustable wrench on it!
I was able to loosen it in the store parking lot after borrowing their tool and then drove home and changed it my leisure on the 1999 Camry. But access to it is extremely easy on that car.
I was able to loosen it in the store parking lot after borrowing their tool and then drove home and changed it my leisure on the 1999 Camry. But access to it is extremely easy on that car.
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