Changing water pump on a 2004 Kia Rio.

Status
Not open for further replies.
The link I posted earlier can recommend some area shops for the job using your zip code. Yes, parts are included in the estimate as well. It also gave an estimate of what the dealer would charge which is in line with what you mentioned. Not sure I'd give up on this car for $300. But of course you don't want to throw good money after bad. Just never heard of giving up on car because of a leaking oil seal. If the engine or trans dies then yes, send car to the scrapper.
 
I do have all of the old parts that were removed from the car during the repair.

If I could actually find someone to fix it for $300, I might do it. The car has some other issues right now like a brake system leak which I have not had time to diagnose since I don't have the car. It's not wheel cylinders because there is no leakage at the rear wheels or at any of the lines at the wheels and even though it has new spark plugs and wires, the CEL is still on for misfires in 3 out of the four cylinders. It also has an O2 sensor code for the front O2 sensor which was just replaced and is brand new. It also needs all four tires replaced. It has had other issues in the past three years of ownership so I think everyone is tired of dealing with all of it. It also probably needs a tranny service at the least since the tranny is starting to shift hard. The tranny was replaced about 30,000 miles ago with a new one right before she got it.

I'm pretty much done personally spending money on this car. I still pay a significant amount of child support to her mother since she is in college so her mother can deal with this one for now.

Wayne
 
Thanks for the link. Unfortunately they don't service my area. The closest service is 121 miles away.

Wayne
 
Thank you. There are four recommendations on that site. I will have to call some of them and see what they tell me. I'm going to replace the valve cover gasket and PCV valve myself after my daughter brings me the car tomorrow. I'm also going to see if I can figure out whats going on with the misfire codes and why the brake fluid in the master cylinder keeps going down.

Since she doesn't drive much right now, I guess I'm going to try to see if I can get this thing to last a while longer. I'm running a semi-synthetic in it right now. I may try running a regular conventional oil in it that is not as thin. If I can't find anyone to fix this for a decent price, I may just try using one of those stop leak type products that you put in the oil that may at least slow the leak down.

Wayne
 
Originally Posted By: wtd
I do have all of the old parts that were removed from the car during the repair.

If I could actually find someone to fix it for $300, I might do it. The car has some other issues right now like a brake system leak which I have not had time to diagnose since I don't have the car. It's not wheel cylinders because there is no leakage at the rear wheels or at any of the lines at the wheels and even though it has new spark plugs and wires, the CEL is still on for misfires in 3 out of the four cylinders. It also has an O2 sensor code for the front O2 sensor which was just replaced and is brand new. It also needs all four tires replaced. It has had other issues in the past three years of ownership so I think everyone is tired of dealing with all of it. It also probably needs a tranny service at the least since the tranny is starting to shift hard. The tranny was replaced about 30,000 miles ago with a new one right before she got it.

I'm pretty much done personally spending money on this car. I still pay a significant amount of child support to her mother since she is in college so her mother can deal with this one for now.

Wayne


there's an earth issue in the hyundai versions of that car, a splice in the wiring loom. You get a CEL for lambda sensor which isn't resolvedby changing the lambda.
 
My daughter brought me her car today. I told her to check the oil before she left and it was full. I checked it when she got here and it was still full. She also said that it didn't leave a puddle on the ground from where it had been sitting for two weeks which was the last time she drove it. I also checked under it when she got here and while it was still oily under there, there didn't appear to be any oil dripping like it was the last time I looked at it.

I highly doubt it miraculously fixed itself but it seems to have at least slowed down. The drive from her college to my house is about 35 miles. I'm going to try and fix a few things and change the oil to a regular oil instead of the semi-synthetic that is in there now. I also have been running 5W-30 in it when it's supposed to have 10W-30 or 10W-40 in it. I may try 10-40 even though we are going into the winter. The chart says it's good down to about 0 degrees and so is the 10W-30 so I will probably use the thicker oil since I have some in my stash.

Wayne
 
That is good news. Maybe just start crossing things off the list gradually at this point instead of trying to do everything at once. Since something major can take the car out of service or it may last several more years. Lets hope for the latter. About once a month or two try to get something on the car fixed or taken care of.

I remember when my brother would sink $2000 into an old Camry every few years. Very little of that was for repairs and the rest was for recommended maintenance by the shop. He donated it to charity and it ran like a top. They sold it at auction for $900 and it was a rust free 1993 Camry with 140k miles. This was a few years ago.
 
Most of the things left to do won't take much time or money. I'm keeping the car until I get everything fixed since it's kind of a hassle to get the car from her so she can just drive my cavalier until I get her car fixed. I have other things to drive.

Hopefully the oil leak situation will work out.

Wayne
 
Well, I worked on the daughter's car today. I got the valve cover gasket and PCV valve replaced as well as checked the spark plugs. The plugs were the correct ones but the gaps were too large so I re-gaped them all. I also replaced the air filter and windshield wiper blades.

I changed the oil to Pennzoil 10W-40 and added some Blue Devil stop leak. I drove the car around for a little while but the leak is still there of course and seems to have went back to leaking like it did in the beginning. I watched the lower pulley as the car was running and it wobbled a little bit so I don't know if they didn't get it on correctly and if this is what caused the leak.

I also had new tires put on it because the back ones were about bald and the front ones were dry rotted pretty bad.

One good thing did happen so far. I unhooked the battery while I was fixing the valve cover gasket and after hooking it back up, the CEL is off and has stayed off so far. Hopefully it will stay off.

I still have not figured out the disappearing brake fluid. I looked at the rear left drum while they were replacing the tires and the drum was not wet but looked a little damp. The other side was dry and the front brake lines were dry. The brakes work great and there is no sinking of the pedal like there would be if it was loosing pressure.

I guess my daughter will just drive the car regardless if it still leaks oil. She will just have to check the oil pretty regularly.

Wayne
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top