Fluid Film DIY
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Originally Posted By: supton
That would work too. Honestly, I don't think I've had a real problem. With a sprayer. The spraycans, those bother me.
I have a good respirator and a spray hood, it became second nature for me to use them whenever I spray.
That would work too. Honestly, I don't think I've had a real problem. With a sprayer. The spraycans, those bother me.
I have a good respirator and a spray hood, it became second nature for me to use them whenever I spray.
JHZR2
Staff member
You can use an airless sprayer for fluid film. They can be acquired rather cheap. Cut with a little mineral spirits if needed.
I prefer oily coatings. You can spray them via compressor. Works well. It doesn't take a lot. Avoid spots where you know it will all be lost in the first rain. Look for spots where you don't want water to hide...
I usually buy the cheapest plastic drop cloth, a cheap tyvek suit, and the best PPE I can find. I use UVEX goggles and a 3M respirator with the appropriate filters. I put down the drop cloth, hold it down in front with ramps, drive up the ramps, and then climb under to spray. Don't stay under too long.
A curved spray tool works well to get into the doors via the drains.
I prefer oily coatings. You can spray them via compressor. Works well. It doesn't take a lot. Avoid spots where you know it will all be lost in the first rain. Look for spots where you don't want water to hide...
I usually buy the cheapest plastic drop cloth, a cheap tyvek suit, and the best PPE I can find. I use UVEX goggles and a 3M respirator with the appropriate filters. I put down the drop cloth, hold it down in front with ramps, drive up the ramps, and then climb under to spray. Don't stay under too long.
A curved spray tool works well to get into the doors via the drains.
Originally Posted By: JHZR2
You can use an airless sprayer for fluid film. They can be acquired rather cheap. Cut with a little mineral spirits if needed.
I prefer oily coatings. You can spray them via compressor. Works well. It doesn't take a lot. Avoid spots where you know it will all be lost in the first rain. Look for spots where you don't want water to hide...
I usually buy the cheapest plastic drop cloth, a cheap tyvek suit, and the best PPE I can find. I use UVEX goggles and a 3M respirator with the appropriate filters. I put down the drop cloth, hold it down in front with ramps, drive up the ramps, and then climb under to spray. Don't stay under too long.
A curved spray tool works well to get into the doors via the drains.
My setup was pretty much the same, only I tossed soft clean drop cloths over the vehicles and wrapped the lower section with wreck wrap, after I shot the insides of the doors. That resulted in no overspray on the vehicle. I did my Liberty and Rubicon with a product that has similar viscosity to FF, maybe a touch thicker before thinning it. In both instances I used my rustproofing gun to do fenders, rockers, inside doors, and the other difficult to access areas. The airless offers no access to shooting insides of doors, etc. After doing the difficult to access areas I shot the bottom of the Liberty with the rustproofing gun, and the bottom of the Rubicon with my airless sprayer. The airless lays down a nice thick coat with little to no thinning of the product, if you desire to do so. You can also cut it and use a bit less pressure and a smaller orifice tip. I was happy with the outcome of both. The other downside to using the airless is there's cleaning another tool which takes about 20 minutes or so and up to a gallon of thinner, depending on what is needed to clean up the product you use, and the size of the machine. You will also use more material. The airless gun is easier to maneuver especially is you use a hose whip if you're working on ramps, or jack stands. In all fairness I'm a lot better versed on the use of an airless sprayer vs. a rustproofing gun. Which is why I favor the method I mentioned.
I have one more vehicle to shoot and I might experiment a bit with thinning the product more and different air and fan settings of my rustproofing gun, which might change my POV on application methods.
You can use an airless sprayer for fluid film. They can be acquired rather cheap. Cut with a little mineral spirits if needed.
I prefer oily coatings. You can spray them via compressor. Works well. It doesn't take a lot. Avoid spots where you know it will all be lost in the first rain. Look for spots where you don't want water to hide...
I usually buy the cheapest plastic drop cloth, a cheap tyvek suit, and the best PPE I can find. I use UVEX goggles and a 3M respirator with the appropriate filters. I put down the drop cloth, hold it down in front with ramps, drive up the ramps, and then climb under to spray. Don't stay under too long.
A curved spray tool works well to get into the doors via the drains.
My setup was pretty much the same, only I tossed soft clean drop cloths over the vehicles and wrapped the lower section with wreck wrap, after I shot the insides of the doors. That resulted in no overspray on the vehicle. I did my Liberty and Rubicon with a product that has similar viscosity to FF, maybe a touch thicker before thinning it. In both instances I used my rustproofing gun to do fenders, rockers, inside doors, and the other difficult to access areas. The airless offers no access to shooting insides of doors, etc. After doing the difficult to access areas I shot the bottom of the Liberty with the rustproofing gun, and the bottom of the Rubicon with my airless sprayer. The airless lays down a nice thick coat with little to no thinning of the product, if you desire to do so. You can also cut it and use a bit less pressure and a smaller orifice tip. I was happy with the outcome of both. The other downside to using the airless is there's cleaning another tool which takes about 20 minutes or so and up to a gallon of thinner, depending on what is needed to clean up the product you use, and the size of the machine. You will also use more material. The airless gun is easier to maneuver especially is you use a hose whip if you're working on ramps, or jack stands. In all fairness I'm a lot better versed on the use of an airless sprayer vs. a rustproofing gun. Which is why I favor the method I mentioned.
I have one more vehicle to shoot and I might experiment a bit with thinning the product more and different air and fan settings of my rustproofing gun, which might change my POV on application methods.
Fluid filmed my RAM a couple of weekends ago and used maybe 3/4 of a gallon to get the job done. That include both frame, suspension and all underside exposed body panels. Used my Wagner power sprayer and it worked like a champ and was easy to clean up.
Did you cut the FF at all?
Originally Posted By: buck91
Did you cut the FF at all?
In my case, I did not cut it. I have heard you can cut it with vegetable oil to thin it out some. The key to spraying uncut FF is to make sure the ambient temps are in the mid 60's or higher. Anything less and the stuff stuff thickens up.
Did you cut the FF at all?
In my case, I did not cut it. I have heard you can cut it with vegetable oil to thin it out some. The key to spraying uncut FF is to make sure the ambient temps are in the mid 60's or higher. Anything less and the stuff stuff thickens up.
I also have put the can of FF in a pot of hot water in the past to keep it flowing in cold temps.
The FF website says to use vegetable oil, as mentioned, to thin it if needed.
http://www.fluid-film.com/frequently-asked-questions/
Quote:
The first recommendation is to thoroughly mix the product. FLUID FILM is thixotropic, and will get heavier upon sitting. Achieving room temperature with the product will help as well. If a thinner version is wanted, start by mixing a small amount of vegetable oil to the product until the desired consistency is reached. It is not recommended that FLUID FILM be used in a pump type sprayer even after thinning. Airless paint spraying equipment is what is recommended for proper application, applied at approximately 2000 PSI as a minimum.
The FF website says to use vegetable oil, as mentioned, to thin it if needed.
http://www.fluid-film.com/frequently-asked-questions/
Quote:
The first recommendation is to thoroughly mix the product. FLUID FILM is thixotropic, and will get heavier upon sitting. Achieving room temperature with the product will help as well. If a thinner version is wanted, start by mixing a small amount of vegetable oil to the product until the desired consistency is reached. It is not recommended that FLUID FILM be used in a pump type sprayer even after thinning. Airless paint spraying equipment is what is recommended for proper application, applied at approximately 2000 PSI as a minimum.
Yes, veg oil does work well. I actually use that method with my HF sprayer.
Originally Posted By: whip
I bought a gallon of Fluid Film. When I opened it, it looks like the consistency of day old refrigerated gravy. I assume I got a bad can? There's no way this stuff can be sprayed.
Stir it. It's just like gravy that's been sitting.
No, serious here: give it a few stirs with a paint mixing stick, and it'll be fine.
I bought a gallon of Fluid Film. When I opened it, it looks like the consistency of day old refrigerated gravy. I assume I got a bad can? There's no way this stuff can be sprayed.
Stir it. It's just like gravy that's been sitting.
No, serious here: give it a few stirs with a paint mixing stick, and it'll be fine.
Originally Posted By: supton
Originally Posted By: whip
I bought a gallon of Fluid Film. When I opened it, it looks like the consistency of day old refrigerated gravy. I assume I got a bad can? There's no way this stuff can be sprayed.
Stir it. It's just like gravy that's been sitting.
No, serious here: give it a few stirs with a paint mixing stick, and it'll be fine.
This. Stir it up, fill the sprayer, and spray away.
Originally Posted By: whip
I bought a gallon of Fluid Film. When I opened it, it looks like the consistency of day old refrigerated gravy. I assume I got a bad can? There's no way this stuff can be sprayed.
Stir it. It's just like gravy that's been sitting.
No, serious here: give it a few stirs with a paint mixing stick, and it'll be fine.
This. Stir it up, fill the sprayer, and spray away.
I had to have a bad batch. I added a quart of vegetable oil to cut it, and then stirred for another five minutes. It still wouldn't spray. I ended up adding about a quart of used motor oil and then stirred more before I was able to spray it. All told over 2 hours and really poor coverage after being thinned so much. This will be my last time wasting time and money doing this when I could pay someone to do it for a little more.
What was the tempurature where you were spraying? What spray gun did you use? Did it have any internal or pickup strainers? What pressure were you spraying it?
Originally Posted By: whip
I had to have a bad batch. I added a quart of vegetable oil to cut it, and then stirred for another five minutes. It still wouldn't spray. I ended up adding about a quart of used motor oil and then stirred more before I was able to spray it. All told over 2 hours and really poor coverage after being thinned so much. This will be my last time wasting time and money doing this when I could pay someone to do it for a little more.
I bet good money your applicator setup was wrong or messed up. If you used a regular automotive paint sprayer setup, the nozzles are too fine for Fluid Film. You either need a true undercoating sprayer or a household paint sprayer that is setup for thick latex type paint. Only other wildcard is you sprayed it against manufacturers recommended outside temp range of being too cold.
Not rocket science to apply this stuff but certain prep and right equipment has to be used.
I had to have a bad batch. I added a quart of vegetable oil to cut it, and then stirred for another five minutes. It still wouldn't spray. I ended up adding about a quart of used motor oil and then stirred more before I was able to spray it. All told over 2 hours and really poor coverage after being thinned so much. This will be my last time wasting time and money doing this when I could pay someone to do it for a little more.
I bet good money your applicator setup was wrong or messed up. If you used a regular automotive paint sprayer setup, the nozzles are too fine for Fluid Film. You either need a true undercoating sprayer or a household paint sprayer that is setup for thick latex type paint. Only other wildcard is you sprayed it against manufacturers recommended outside temp range of being too cold.
Not rocket science to apply this stuff but certain prep and right equipment has to be used.
I just made sure the FF was warm. I only added a little veggie oil. Spraying it straight also worked for me, but the droplets were larger.
To warm it I put the gallon can in a big pot partially filled with hot water.
I'm guessing an engine cleaning sprayer is made to spray thinner materials. Any engine cleaner I've used was way thinner than FF.
As already noted, latex paint sprayers are made to spray thicker materials, so they work for FF. Here's a video of a latex paint sprayer being used to spray FF.
To warm it I put the gallon can in a big pot partially filled with hot water.
I'm guessing an engine cleaning sprayer is made to spray thinner materials. Any engine cleaner I've used was way thinner than FF.
As already noted, latex paint sprayers are made to spray thicker materials, so they work for FF. Here's a video of a latex paint sprayer being used to spray FF.
Dunno, I can spray without cutting, and it sprays just fine. But I splurged and bought the sprayer & kit that FF sells. I figured, I could spend half as much and hope for the best; or I could just buy "the right one" and not have problems for years, at least not until the sprayer wears out.
So far, so good. Only issue I have is in transferring FF from the 5 gallon bucket into the small mouth opening of the sprayer container.
So far, so good. Only issue I have is in transferring FF from the 5 gallon bucket into the small mouth opening of the sprayer container.
JHZR2
Staff member
Buy the small carwell sprayer and DIY easier and cleaner than FF. FF is too thick and globby (is that a word?), while the carwell/Krown oil will do a better job spreading, especially inside crevices and doors.
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