2000 L67 PU 5w30

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This is old formula PU 5w30 in modified L67. Now running PU 10w30 and will check again, maybe the bearings are going out, maybe time for a refresh over next winter if it doesn't get better.

 
I also have an L67 engine although mine has 237k miles. Nothing stands out in this report as the cause for your lead and copper. Does this car see knock? Have you scanned for knock?
 
What's the mods Trav ?

Mines 10psi, and 1.9 rockers on the inlet...

It could just be some grit got flushed through as a one off...don't take action until you see a trend.
 
Bigger cam, egr delete, big injectors later model blower/smaller pulley, headers, head and internal work inc oil pump mod.
No delay in the gauge at startup and good oil pressure. No big deal I wont do anything till next winter if it doesn't get better than I will build a short block and swap it then see what happened to this one.
 
Hmm, had the top off mine, and no EGR on the Aussie ones...we had the bigger blower too (Mine's a 1997), and RWD too...
 
I think it will go a long time at 47ppm lead. The stress of the mods is likely making it "eat" a little more, or maybe just a temporary particle streak. I'd check it again down the road with a UOA and I wouldn't tear it down based solely on a UOA or two. Oil pressure loss or bottom end noise, that's another story and a good reason to go in.
 
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Originally Posted By: bigt61
I think it will go a long time at 47ppm lead. The stress of the mods is likely making it "eat" a little more, or maybe just a temporary particle streak. I'd check it again down the road with a UOA and I wouldn't tear it down based solely on a UOA or two. Oil pressure loss or bottom end noise, that's another story and a good reason to go in.

+1
.... and the oil looks serviceable.
I would've considered a xW40 on this mod.
blush.gif
 
I agree I think it maybe too thin also now but the other wear metals are not horrible and the oil stayed in grade, if the bearings were taking a beating wouldn't it shear the oil?
I run 0w40 in the other 3800 engine but it has more boost from a turbo than this one and is also using the same sump oil.

The 10w30 is Pennzoil supplied for the UOA thing so I figured I will run it and see if the numbers drop because if it was a particle streak it maybe a one off. If it doesn't come down I will think about going thicker.
I wont tear into it based on a couple of UOA but would like to find out whats going on in there.
 
I'd agree that it probably would do better with an Xw40.

I'm not a particular fan of Pennzoil's SRT 0w40 compared to, eg. M1 0w40. Of course its hard to tell from cheap lab analyses, but it *looks* like its nothing more than a heavier version of their ordinary Xw30 oils, without the bump up in additives that you normally see in performance 40-weights. It is, after all, tailored for engines that are all roller-cammed, contain no gear drives, etc. The SRT engines (now that the turbo 4-cylinder isn't produced) are all very easy on oil and don't demand anything "special" in stock form- and that's what the SRT 0w40 is made for. However, the analyses of their "Euro" 5w40 looks more like a performance-engine oriented oil akin to M1 0w40 or Castrol 0w40. I think that's what I'd go with if I were sticking with the SOPUS product line. That or RT6.
 
I don't know why they feel its better they could have just as easily provided a Euro oil. These are engineers with a real engine lab so its a pretty good bet they have a good idea what they are doing and why.
Will a cheap VOA disclose all the elements in the oil? I have no idea but they did say this oil is used in other high performance applications without the SRT label so there may be more to it than meets the eye.
As far as using Mobil 1 0w40, no thanks. It was a great oil but since they seem to have messed with its no longer on the list, I wont buy or use the new version.
 
Unless the Pennzoil engineers specifically preferred SRT to Euro version of similar viscosity grade ..... or considered ACEA not being spec'ed according to manual monster, otherwise..
 
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