Toyota Crown 2003 Athlete V 2.5L Turbo 1JZ-GTE...

[RandomNobody]

Hi,

Uhm... everyones told me search the manual for 'brake fluid, transmission fluid, radiator coolant' and so forth recommended for this vehicle.

Problem is... it is a Japanese (why is j.a.p censored?) import here and there is no User Manual that came with the car, so everything is guess work.

I looked on google and I can't find anything.

I did ring Castrol, they didn't have anything listed, then did some 'search' and recommended

SF-O For radiator Coolant
Transmax FE Multi vehicle for transmission
Axle EPX 80w90 for differential
Brakefluid DOT 3 - for brakes.

That is all given I wanted to just stick to Castrol and not worry about 1 brand of this 1 brand of that and 1 brand of something else.

But that was based on whatever he 'saw', but I don't know if they saw my particular car or just went off something similar.

Anyone know anything about my car, repair/owners manual, or anything wise?

 

[Falcon_LS]

Here's what I would do:

Coolant: Toyota red Long Life coolant (not the pink Super Long Life)
Transmission: Toyota Type-IV
Differential: 75W-90 GL-5
Brakes: DOT 4 or 5.1

 

[SR5]

Castrol DOT 4 brake fluid
http://www.castrol.com/en_au/australia/products/cars/brake-fluids/brake-fluid-dot-4.html

Genuine Toyota coolant
https://www.toyota.com.au/owners/parts/fluids-cleaner/coolant

 

[Silk]

Welcome to our world - we've been doing this in New Zealand for 30 years. It was a big problem at first, but it's well sorted now...we have better parts and service information on JDV than Japanese export models. That engine was used in the Toyota Soarer, and more exciting than the V8 version...also badged as Lexus.

 

[Gebo]

Originally Posted By: Falcon_LS
Here's what I would do:

Coolant: Toyota red Long Life coolant (not the pink Super Long Life)
Transmission: Toyota Type-IV
Differential: 75W-90 GL-5
Brakes: DOT 4 or 5.1


I am in agreement with everything except the brake fluid. I'm not in disagreement with the brake fluid either. I just don't know.

 

[Trav]

The DOT 5.1 works great in ABS systems, no point in using it in non ABS use DOT 4

 

[SR5]

Originally Posted By: Falcon_LS

Coolant: Toyota red Long Life coolant (not the pink Super Long Life)


What's the difference between the two ?

The Oz Toyota web page only show super long life.

Valvoline Australia only offer G-05, Dex-Cool and G-48.

Most other places here like Nulon say to run their Red Long-Life (OAT) coolant, which to me is a Dex-Clone.

 

[RandomNobody]

Originally Posted By: Silk

Hey,

You said the problem is sorted now.... uhm... that didn't actually help? Are you saying there is info for my car available or that its been worked out what it needs... if so what?

Is there anything wrong with the 80w90 from Castrol for diff oil?

They told me to use the toyota super coolant stuff as their SF-O comes only in a 20 liter concentrate.

Also - isnt it better to just get concentrate and mix as you need rather than pre mixed stuff? You are essentially paying for water with pre mixed stuff... ???

Also i read on this forum elsewhere that premixed isnt good because once you flush out the radiator n then add premix... there will still be water in places causing the actual mixture to be further diluted than the pre mixed quantity... he ce get concentrate, add 50% according to the literage and then just top up with water whats left. Then you get a true 50-50 mix and you dont pay for half a bottle of water but rather a full bottle of the stuff you need...

Was something along those lines.

Any elaboration?

Casteol tech told me to make sure it was DOT 3 and not the 4. Something about void warranty etc if you use 4 over the 3 by toyota.

My cars long past its warranty though and with aftermarket brakes brembo etc available... i'll eventually change them anyway. Then i will need oil/fluid to suit whatever i put in and the manufacturer recomendation will be completely useless.

However im not at that stage yet, i just dont know why dot 3 is specificaly specified.. will my car get brake failure possibly if i use 4... I also believe my car has ABS brakes.

N then heres my other dilema... castrols coolant SF-O which only comes in 20L or the toyota super long life castrol recomended as well... how am i meant to know if my radiator has brass bits or other stuff that makes certain coolants not useable.

Like why cant i just get radicool green stuff n be done with it?

 

[fdcg27]

I suspect that if you flush the cooling system and the brakes thoroughly, the fluid you use won't matter much although I'd stay with glycol brake fluid and avoid OAT coolants.
What was recommended for Toyota/Lexus vehicles of the era? The requirements of this car would almost certainly be the same.
For the tranny, which I gather is a slushbox, anything recommended for Toyota badged vehicles from the time should be fine.
For the diff, once again, go by the Toyota (Lexus) recommendations of the era.
The fact that you can't find any information on this model in English, or at least Australian, doesn't mean that the information isn't out there.
Most makers use the same coolants, brake fluids and gear lubes across all lines.

 

[hpb]

Agree with fdcg27. If you're still unsure, talk to some workshops that deal with those vehicles - yeah, I know, they'll be "Drift" types, comes with the territory, unfortunately, but they should know what works and what doesn't. I don't understand why the short version of Japanese is censored on here either!

 

[Silk]

Originally Posted By: Wreckage
You said the problem is sorted now.... uhm... that didn't actually help?


Just find out what else uses that driveline - it's a Lexus, so use any relevant information for a Lexus of that year and with that engine.

 

[Graham Piccinini]

Don't have any documents to back it up, but I know a good group of people with the 1jz and 2jz engines. Both turbos and N/As. All of those engines seem to be the happiest with the 40wt. Like Mobil 1 0w40, Castrol 0w40 (but it makes some N/A motors feel sluggish), also a lot of turbo guys had great success with Castrol 5w50. I had an N/A 2JZ, and my engine loved the 5w50 more than 0w40 from Castrol, going by the feel, performance, oil color, taste, and feel, lol.

 

[Virtus_Probi]

"J@p" is considered offensive in American culture and the term's use is largely dying out with America's "Greatest Generation" (that of my parents...my father fought in N Africa and Europe in WWII). My mother had a passionate hatred for all things Japanese, I'd assume due to WWII propaganda, and I heard that term all the time while growing up...I never cared for it and also have to be very careful as an employee of a Japanese-owned company. I have always been quite fascinated by Japanese culture and really enjoyed traveling to Japan on business, although the trip was so hectic that I didn't have much time for fun and sightseeing. I whizzed right by Mt Fuji on a bullet train and was so busy on my laptop that I didn't notice...

Anyway, I'd assume that this site is hosted in the US and that's probably why that term is censored.

 

[SR5]

Originally Posted By: fdcg27
I suspect that if you flush the cooling system ... the fluid you use won't matter much although I'd avoid OAT coolants.


Yep a good water flush first, then you could consider Valvoline Zerex G-05 (HOAT) coolant as a good all rounder. I ran G-05 in my Japanese motorcycles.

http://www.valvoline.com.au/explore-our-...eze-concentrate

I got the concentrate and mixed it a bit rich to compensate for any fresh water left in the system after the flush. I did tap water flush first, then demineralized water rinse, then concentrate and demineralized water mix to fill the system.

Btw OAT like Dex-Cool and HOAT like G-05 are different and shouldn't be mixed.

 

[RandomNobody]

What exactly is dimineralized water?

Is that just filtered water, boiled water... or is there more to it... ?

I assume factory recomendations on engine, brakes, coolants etc... only hold value while the car is in original condition?

Once brakes get totaly replaced, radiator gets changed etc... then i need fluids to suit the replacement/aftermarket parts which may be all together different?

 

[SR5]

Demineralised water is a filtered high purity water with most of the heavy minerals removed. It's cheap to buy, you can get it at most auto stores or hardware stores like bunnings.
https://www.bunnings.com.au/diggers-4l-demineralised-water_p4460953

Only mix coolant concentrate with demineralized water.

You can also buy coolant that is already premixed with demineralized water.

Yeah after market parts might change thinngs a bit, or it might not. It's not like every make and model of car has it's owns special coolant and brake fluid. I mean Valvoline Australia only make 3 coolants (Dex, G-05, G-48) and this covers most of the cars in the country. Yes some countries and companies have a bigger selection, or you might go OEM and buy official Toyota coolant, but like the poster above said. A flush and a sensible choice is most of the way there. There is more than one sensible choice.

Unless you know you need something special for a very particular application, you mostly just need a sensible choice of a suitable quality fluid.

Like Castrol DOT 4 brake fluid and Valvoline Zerex G-05 coolant. That's what I would use.
But if you got Valvoline DOT 3 and Nulon One universal coolant, it would probably work out fine too.

 

[SR5]

Look !!! They have move the thread !!

I vote for

Shell Helix Ultra 5W-40, GTL synthetic, API SN, ACEA A3/B4, Porsche A40.
Castrol DOT 4 brake fluid.
Valvoline Zerex G-05 (HOAT) coolant.
Penrite Pro Gear 75W-90 diff / gear oil, full synthetic PAO & Ester, GL-5.

But heaps of other good choices out there for everything. Like Penrite 10-Tenths Racing oil.
I wish we got Zerex Asian coolant in Australia, but I've never seen it, my local quality garage uses G-05 in this application, and so do it. My Honda radiators looked pristine on G-05.

 

[SR5]

Originally Posted By: SR5
Look !!! They have move the thread !!

I vote for

Shell Helix Ultra 5W-40, GTL synthetic, API SN, ACEA A3/B4, Porsche A40.
Castrol DOT 4 brake fluid.
Valvoline Zerex G-05 (HOAT) coolant.
Penrite Pro Gear 75W-90 diff / gear oil, full synthetic PAO & Ester, GL-5.

But heaps of other good choices out there for everything. Like Penrite 10-Tenths Racing oil.
I wish we got Zerex Asian coolant in Australia, but I've never seen it, my local quality garage uses G-05 in this application, and so do it. My Honda radiators looked pristine on G-05.


The Penrite diff and gear oil PDF

https://www.penriteoil.com.au/POS/GO_POS.pdf

 

[RandomNobody]

I found the transmission my car has...

A340E (30-40LE) - 4 speed Auto.

Fluid for that?

Otherwise...

I was thinking something...

eg: 0w 40 weight oil.

0 is good for initial cold start... however, I assume if you just turned the car on and drove off straight away... it would be 'too thin' to protect the engine under load. Hence s general 5min or so 'warmup' is needed so the oil thickens (towards the 40) before actually driving it.

In which case... if it does work like that...

Why not just get a mono grade race oil that is simply 40.

Essentially that would mean I could turn on and drive off without any warmup needed as the oil cold or warm will be the '40'... Yes/No???

A water filter that filters 98% of the water... is that classified de-mineralized?

Like why buy "filtered" water when I got a very powerful filter for drinking... or is there more to it?

 

[SR5]

Oil: Don't over think it. A Porsche A40 standard oil is one of the best you can get. I have never seen a monograde classed A40 and I don't expect I ever will. They get way too thick when cold and are not developed to the same degree as modern multigrades. Stick to the Edge 0W40, M1 0W40, SHU 5W40, etc

A 10W oil will cold start to -20C, which is plenty for Australia. A 5W will start colder, and 0W colder again, but this isn't Alaska. For normal Australian conditions, there will be no significant difference between 0W and 5W.

All oils have a spec sheet that should give their viscosity at 40C and 100C in temp. Check out a few of these from the web, they are easy to find.