Redline 10w60 - 2011 M3 - Mix?

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Originally Posted By: DeepFriar
Okay, I'll poke this nest one more since apparently I'm the only one who has used Redline in a vehicle since its zecond fill and am, therefore, a deplorable person who believes everything snake oil salesmen say. Nissan Sentra SE-R, 1992, SR20DE engine, beaten to within an inch of its life in both track and street, two teenagers, one nephew and me, the biggest offender of all. Now down to driving it every month or so in the same manner as always while watching it slowly rust. 257,000 miles or thereabouts, engine never opened, never needed to except for valve cover gaskets. One chain tensioner in the second year and regular religious maintenance. 5,000 OCI with Redline, Nissan filters until corrupted by BITOG to using Fram Ultra, almost always with 0-40 weight, otherwise 5-40. If you've got better data I want to hear it.


Apologies. I got my 0's and 5's mixed up earlier. I used 5-40 primarily and, in later years, switched to 0-40. My records also show two fills with Mobil1 10-40 way back when and one or two fills of Motul 300V 10-40 (note in the margin on that says Smoooth!)
 
Originally Posted By: DeepFriar
Originally Posted By: DeepFriar
Okay, I'll poke this nest one more since apparently I'm the only one who has used Redline in a vehicle since its zecond fill and am, therefore, a deplorable person who believes everything snake oil salesmen say. Nissan Sentra SE-R, 1992, SR20DE engine, beaten to within an inch of its life in both track and street, two teenagers, one nephew and me, the biggest offender of all. Now down to driving it every month or so in the same manner as always while watching it slowly rust. 257,000 miles or thereabouts, engine never opened, never needed to except for valve cover gaskets. One chain tensioner in the second year and regular religious maintenance. 5,000 OCI with Redline, Nissan filters until corrupted by BITOG to using Fram Ultra, almost always with 0-40 weight, otherwise 5-40. If you've got better data I want to hear it.


Apologies. I got my 0's and 5's mixed up earlier. I used 5-40 primarily and, in later years, switched to 0-40. My records also show two fills with Mobil1 10-40 way back when and one or two fills of Motul 300V 10-40 (note in the margin on that says Smoooth!)

Point is?
BMW E34, 520i, first 24V inline six, 1991, 150hp. Always used INA Sint 10W40. What is INA Sint? INA is Croatian oil company that makes oils on a side. Decent oils. BMW sold in 2001 with 489,000km! Never used a drop of oil. Never opened engine, never changed gasket, only things that were changed were water ump and thermostat several times and chain and 300,000km.
If car cannot make 257K on ANY good oil with 5K OCI, then that car is POS.
 
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Originally Posted By: edyvw
If car cannot make 257K on ANY good oil with 5K OCI, then that car is POS.


Redline - Upgraded from scammer to "any good oil". Hmmm that's good enough for one day, I can agree with that. I'm not a fanboi and only use RL in one car. Extreme positions are hard to defend whether one be for or against something.
 
Originally Posted By: DeepFriar
Originally Posted By: edyvw
If car cannot make 257K on ANY good oil with 5K OCI, then that car is POS.


Redline - Upgraded from scammer to "any good oil". Hmmm that's good enough for one day, I can agree with that. I'm not a fanboi and only use RL in one car. Extreme positions are hard to defend whether one be for or against something.

They are scammers claiming how their oil is SUPERIOR to others. I never said that RL is BAD oil.
Getting approval from VW for example is actually very cheap. If they claim that their oil MEETS and EXCEEDS for example VW 504.00/507.. specification, what stops them to approve that oil by VW/ I worked on oil approval of one obscure oil company from the Balkans. They got it for 3200 euros!
I posted somewhere here pdf of approval where price of approval is listed.
So that pitch by RL and RP how approvals are "ridiculously expensive" is aimed at people who really do not want to educate themselves about this.
In the end, if my emission system in BMW fails bcs. of oil that has ingredients that could harm DPF, EGR or SCR, then that oil is bad. I do not know whether that oil has harmful ingredients since it does not have approval. Those specifications are made for a reason.
RL targets a lot BMW owners and their pitch is:
1. BMW engineers made great engine
2. Use RL because we know better then those engineers that made that great engine.
 
This is an M3 conversation. If you don't own one or deal with the risk of critically worn rod hearings, respect that we M3 owners are looking for the highest level of protection in oil selection.
We don't need the self appointed experts here giving lectures with condescending posts without the perspective of what we are trying to overcome in long term wear considerations. Don't make the mistake that my use of RL is based on casual research. To each their own.
I reference personal long term RL experience, which is all any of us can do.
But thanks to those that actually contribute to the discussion.
 
Originally Posted By: 330indy
This is an M3 conversation. If you don't own one or deal with the risk of critically worn rod hearings, respect that we M3 owners are looking for the highest level of protection in oil selection.
We don't need the self appointed experts here giving lectures with condescending posts without the perspective of what we are trying to overcome in long term wear considerations. Don't make the mistake that my use of RL is based on casual research. To each their own.
I reference personal long term RL experience, which is all any of us can do.
But thanks to those that actually contribute to the discussion.

Does M3 ownership qualifies you as an expert? Tell me where you get one that comes with "expert" credentials, and I will purchase one.
A lot of people have great experience with RL, and so far ONLY negative "experience" (if you can call it that way) is that people will say: oh well it is so much money but I do not feel difference.
However, what I replied to is this nonsense that standards do not matter, and RL is openly pushing that with their advertising that they know best and better then BMW engineers.
Going back to M3, do you have ANY evidence that RL 10W60 or 5W50 protects better then TWS or new BMW 10W60?
Do not get me wrong, if I had E46 M3, I might run RL, but I do not want to read this nonsense (you can call it condescending) that RL is better because it is not approved, or the most ridiculous argument, how it is expensive to get approval.
If RL gets BMW LL-04 approval I will be first to use it!
 
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The majority of rod bearing issues are caused by, IMHO, grocery-getting, not letting the oil warm up before driving hard, and lugging the engine at low RPM.

I'm looking at E60 M5s now, and I have come to the realization that eventually I will have to replace the rod bearings; it is a factor of ownership. Trying to avoid it with a different oil is just prolonging the inevitable.

Castrol TWS is one of the best oils on the market. The 10W-60 is not the important part of the M engine oil specification, rather the oil itself is important. If I was going to choose something other than Castrol TWS 10W-60. It would be a properly formulated and approved LL01 oil. Redline 5W-40, again in my opinion, would be a good choice regarding the protection.

However, you will not know for sure what is working until you pull the pan and look at rods bearings.
 
I'm looking forward to see the results
smile.gif

If it were me, I'd rather mix M1 racing 0W50 instead of 0W30. Wish I could find this 0W50 here!
 
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