Having a brake problem with the old E350.
I hadn't driven the old dear in six months but had a need for it and put it back to use.
I thought that it needed a master cylinder based upon the way the brakes felt when I was driving it regularly, so I bought it one and planned on taking it to my favorite side work guy.
Popped the right rear brake line almost at once. My guy installed the new master and a new RR brake line. He was test driving it when the LR popped. He replaced that and then the line from the front popped. He replaced that and all was well, except that pedal travel is ridiculously long although the brakes work great after you get past that and there is none of the bleed-off of line pressure you'd get with either air or a bad master cylinder.
This appears to be neither a bleeding nor a master cylinder issue.
It isn't an electrical or electronic problem with the ABS, since the system runs through its self-check on every start and the light goes out.
We both think that this must involve a stuck open valve in the ABS hydraulic module.
Does anyone have any other ideas?
I'll add that this guy is an ASE Master with twenty years of shop experience. He is a bright and capable wrench, so it isn't as though he's clueless and I know my way around cars having wrenched them myself for years. I was glad I didn't get into this myself, since my sixtieth self really wouldn't have enjoyed rolling in and out from under the old Ford replacing brake lines.
Anyway, the brakes work great but the long pedal travel is spooky.
I hadn't driven the old dear in six months but had a need for it and put it back to use.
I thought that it needed a master cylinder based upon the way the brakes felt when I was driving it regularly, so I bought it one and planned on taking it to my favorite side work guy.
Popped the right rear brake line almost at once. My guy installed the new master and a new RR brake line. He was test driving it when the LR popped. He replaced that and then the line from the front popped. He replaced that and all was well, except that pedal travel is ridiculously long although the brakes work great after you get past that and there is none of the bleed-off of line pressure you'd get with either air or a bad master cylinder.
This appears to be neither a bleeding nor a master cylinder issue.
It isn't an electrical or electronic problem with the ABS, since the system runs through its self-check on every start and the light goes out.
We both think that this must involve a stuck open valve in the ABS hydraulic module.
Does anyone have any other ideas?
I'll add that this guy is an ASE Master with twenty years of shop experience. He is a bright and capable wrench, so it isn't as though he's clueless and I know my way around cars having wrenched them myself for years. I was glad I didn't get into this myself, since my sixtieth self really wouldn't have enjoyed rolling in and out from under the old Ford replacing brake lines.
Anyway, the brakes work great but the long pedal travel is spooky.
