engine toast? or just head gasket R&R?

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1991 BMW 318is - engine is from a 1993 Has roughly 200k on it.

So I put in a radiator flush cause I noticed one of my hoses had some brown coloration...I was changing the radiator, it had a leak.

Drove my car about 30 miles with the flush, parked for about 1/2 hour and then drove it back home another 30 miles.

On the way home I noticed the temp gauge creeping, so I refilled with water (it took about half gallon) didn't see any noticeable leaks, so I refilled and went on my way.

Noticed temp gauge creeping again about 15 miles later. Refilled with water, didn't see any leaks so I popped the oil cap off, and milkshake special.

I drove it home, about 15 miles after refilling, pulled the valve cover and saw this:

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is it possible my bearings are ok? I'm not gonna bother taking the head off if the whole engine is junk (not worth the cost to fully rebuild)
 
Good question. It could be the profile gasket. Check if the M42/44 from that year had issues.

Mine leaked overboard, but others may fail other ways.

If you caught it fast and changed the oil out, you're probably ok. Key is to get the wet oil out of there ASAP, perhaps flush immediately with the cheapest clean oil you can get (turn the engine over by hand or crank it with the the water pump not turning and fuel cut), and try to get any moisture out.
 
If I performed a leakdown would that indicate profile gasket? I guess if its the HG or the profile gasket the head is coming off regardless.

After I get everything sorted out, how would I go about cleaning all this [censored] up? Can I just spray some solvent on it, let it drain to the pan and take the pan out and clean that? Then button everything up and change the oil at say 200 or 500 miles instead of 3-5k?
 
I would pull the head; the problem should be immediately apparent. Either something cracked or the HG is toast.

To clean it up I would just to a couple of oil changes with some cheap dino. Fill it, start it, run it, drain it. When the oil comes out clean install a new oil filter and your preferred oil.
 
Bearings are unrelated and aren't effected too much by overheating. You can drop the oil pan and pull a bearing cap if you want. Remember which direction it was installed and torque to spec in correct sequence.

Overheating damages piston rings and warps the deck and head surface.

It's milky because water got in the oil. It usually does so because of a bad headgasket. A leakdown test can confirm poor head seal, but doesn't eliminate other possibilities like a crack in a water jacket or a pinhole in the bore.

These things are iron block correct? I think it would be worth your time to leakdown test and pull the head and slap in a new headgasket. (assuming no obvious cracks in the block or head).
 
an auto machine shop is your friend.

They can check the head, flatten it or fix crack(sometimes).

Just a new gasket has little chance of success

Rod
 
It never overheated. I just felt no heat from the vent and saw the gauge creep. It barely got to 3/4 on the gauge.

No time right now to m/s5x swap it right now.

At the bare minimum I'd be having the head pressure tested and resurfaced flat.

I was worried the water in the oil not providing enough lubrication for the bearings.
 
+1 on the recommendation to flush the oil asap. See if there is a way to prime the oil pump manually or if you have to turn the engine over by hand. Were you driving hard during this time? Did you hear any strange noises from the bottom end? The bearing system can be quite resilient and may be okay.
 
Originally Posted By: jrobie79
It never overheated. I just felt no heat from the vent and saw the gauge creep. It barely got to 3/4 on the gauge.

No time right now to m/s5x swap it right now.

At the bare minimum I'd be having the head pressure tested and resurfaced flat.

I was worried the water in the oil not providing enough lubrication for the bearings.


Water in the oil is not an instant death sentence for an engine. It looks ugly, to be sure, but you're fine regarding your bearings when you account for the small amount you drove the car.

Is the car your daily? If it is I would be looking for a replacement engine to avoid machine shop downtime. Many people sell their M44/42 for cheap when they pull them for swaps. Also, before you can get on a machine shops waiting list, you first have to find one comfortable and willing to machine a BMW head. You may not be able to find one local.

And, at that point, if you're going to swap for a newish M44... you may as well swap for a newish M52. If you can find a parts 328i... you'll have everything you need. Shouldn't take much more than a weekend, as everything is plug and play. Often times parts cars are cheaper than engines by themselves.
 
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Originally Posted By: DemoFly
Bearings are unrelated and aren't effected too much by overheating.


Coolant in the oil will ruin a bearing.
 
Originally Posted By: HerrStig
It looks like the rust monster is already chomping on the body.


au contraire, any rust is just surface rust. I put it on the lift and spent a good week cutting, welding, sealing everything about a year or so ago. It gets parked all winter, but my winter SUV is currently sitting without an engine right now.


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Originally Posted By: rooflessVW

Is the car your daily? If it is I would be looking for a replacement engine to avoid machine shop downtime. Many people sell their M44/42 for cheap when they pull them for swaps. Also, before you can get on a machine shops waiting list, you first have to find one comfortable and willing to machine a BMW head. You may not be able to find one local.

And, at that point, if you're going to swap for a newish M44... you may as well swap for a newish M52. If you can find a parts 328i... you'll have everything you need. Shouldn't take much more than a weekend, as everything is plug and play. Often times parts cars are cheaper than engines by themselves.


I have a few reputable machine shops in the area, a buddy of mine actually works at one, and he said two days turn around time. I was looking for m42 engines, but there's none locally for a reasonable amount of money. Ultimately I'll put an S52 in it in the next year or so, but that's not in the cards right now.
 
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Originally Posted By: daves87rs
Pretty sure it's toast...


If it was running OK when switched off the anti wear layer deposited on the bearings might well have prevented any significant damage.

I would flush it with diesel then use any cheap oil and filter and see if it sounds OK. If it does, then change the gaskets and do another oil & filter job.
Main risk would probably be to the turbo bearings, if this engine has one.

If it does not sound too good, like a rough idle or the mains rattle, it might be worth trying a ceramic HG sealant (Proper flush job as they react with antifreeze) and Mobil 10w60 (A3/B4) plus a can of Ceratec if you feel lucky!
 
I love that style BMW. How did the engine run? If the engine ran good I would pull the head and see what the problem is, do a compression test first.the coolant will not hurt the bearings unless it was in the oil and run for a very long time.
 
Reality check here guys The company I worked for fixed many Mitsubhsi Astro engine that were so overheated the valve inserts would fall out and the valves wouldn't close and that is what caused the drivers to realize there was a problem. the heads were straightened and repaired or replaced and the engines went on to lead a long life.These engines were run on conventional oils.
 
Originally Posted By: UltrafanUK
Originally Posted By: daves87rs
Pretty sure it's toast...


If it was running OK when switched off the anti wear layer deposited on the bearings might well have prevented any significant damage.

I would flush it with diesel then use any cheap oil and filter and see if it sounds OK. If it does, then change the gaskets and do another oil & filter job.
Main risk would probably be to the turbo bearings, if this engine has one.

If it does not sound too good, like a rough idle or the mains rattle, it might be worth trying a ceramic HG sealant (Proper flush job as they react with antifreeze) and Mobil 10w60 (A3/B4) plus a can of Ceratec if you feel lucky!
Anti wear deposited on the bearings?
 
Originally Posted By: CT8
I love that style BMW. How did the engine run? If the engine ran good I would pull the head and see what the problem is, do a compression test first.the coolant will not hurt the bearings unless it was in the oil and run for a very long time.


Engine ran perfectly. I had some coolant issues that I diagnosed to a stuck open thermostat, leaking water pump, & a busted radiator (already changed WP and Thermo) I ran the coolant flush as I was going to replace the radiator yesterday...never had any milkyness to the oil prior to that.
 
Originally Posted By: rooflessVW
I would pull the head; the problem should be immediately apparent. Either something cracked or the HG is toast.

To clean it up I would just to a couple of oil changes with some cheap dino. Fill it, start it, run it, drain it. When the oil comes out clean install a new oil filter and your preferred oil.

Yes exactly this. Pull head then you can check for warping corrosion burning etc and make a more informed decision about replacing engine or not. If it looks like a simple blown gasket, gasket slap and change oil and see what you have.

Avoid concoctions poured into your car. Staying with only the intended fluids tends to be less problems.
 
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