I am going to be storing my 2008 Dodge Charger R/T this winter. This is the first time I have ever done this, I currently have 83400 KM on her and I am still 1000 or more km away from a oil change. I use Penzoil Platinum and change it evey 5000 km. Question is should I change the oil before I park her for the 4-5 months? or Do I change the oil then park her? would I need to change it again in the spring? I tend on starting it and rolling it in and out of the garage to keep the tire round.. thanks in advance for the advice...
Winter Storage Question....
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Nick1994
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Park it, pump up the tires to the max psi on the sidewall, disconnect the battery, and leave it alone.
Change the oil in the spring. It's just going to be sitting in the bottom of the pan.
Change the oil in the spring. It's just going to be sitting in the bottom of the pan.
I would change oil now.
I agree with fresh oil now, airing up tires and not touching it.
I prefer to leave the battery connected to the a proper intelligent maintainer if possible but disconnecting it is OK, if possible charge the battery after you disconnect it, storing at less than a full charge causes sulfation
You won't be doing it any favors if you start it just to roll it. If you aren't going to get the oil to full operational temperature leave it parked.
I prefer to leave the battery connected to the a proper intelligent maintainer if possible but disconnecting it is OK, if possible charge the battery after you disconnect it, storing at less than a full charge causes sulfation
You won't be doing it any favors if you start it just to roll it. If you aren't going to get the oil to full operational temperature leave it parked.
Fill up the fuel tank and pump up the tyres to near max pressure (Roughly double normal, but it is written on the sidewalls).
I would do an OCI before storing due to minor concerns that old oil causes corrosion due to higher acid levels.
The main risk of not running an engine at least every month is to the injector tips and you can use some new engine oil in the fuel just before shutdown,
If you don't have a sensible maintenance charger, disconnect the battery after charging it up first as the clock or alarm might flatten it.
I would do an OCI before storing due to minor concerns that old oil causes corrosion due to higher acid levels.
The main risk of not running an engine at least every month is to the injector tips and you can use some new engine oil in the fuel just before shutdown,
If you don't have a sensible maintenance charger, disconnect the battery after charging it up first as the clock or alarm might flatten it.
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Changing the oil now or later isn't going to make a big difference. Now if you have access to non-ethanol gas, I'd put that in the tank with some Stabil.
I'd take it for a ride to the gas station, air up the tires, add a stabilizer and UCL to the gas and fill the tank. Drive it half an hour and change the oil in the spot where it is going to be parked. Then leave it alone. You can use a battery tender or jump it if need be when you plan on restarting it in a few months. The UCL will prevent the possibility of flash rusting of the cylinders and keep the injectors lubed. I've stored a few cars this way, and my son will be doing it in a few short months when he leaves for his fifth deployment.
I wouldn't change the oil now.
Don't know if that is the correct thing to do but it is what i was always told to do when parking up a vehicle in storage. Specifically Motorbikes.
Though it will likely make no difference
Don't know if that is the correct thing to do but it is what i was always told to do when parking up a vehicle in storage. Specifically Motorbikes.
Though it will likely make no difference
I park my summer vehicle on those rubber children's flooring mats, the ones that connect together like a puzzle. Helps to protect the tires and no need to roll out the car over the winter months IMO.
I like to dump old oil and analyze it in fall months prior to storage. The less acid the better. A bit of fuel stabilizer in the tank and follow the instructions on working it through the fuel system before shut down.
I like to dump old oil and analyze it in fall months prior to storage. The less acid the better. A bit of fuel stabilizer in the tank and follow the instructions on working it through the fuel system before shut down.
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When I stored my Barchetta for winter and probably more than that (probably a year+) a few weeks ago, I changed oil with fresh, put stabilizer in the gas, aired up the tires, and put some low ash oil in the cylinder.
I did not put 2 stroke oil in the gas as I read on the stabilizer (Motul stabilizer) that 2 stroke oil will void the effect of stabilizer.
Hope it will start fine after storage, in the worst case I'll have to replace injectors...they are not very expensive
I did not put 2 stroke oil in the gas as I read on the stabilizer (Motul stabilizer) that 2 stroke oil will void the effect of stabilizer.
Hope it will start fine after storage, in the worst case I'll have to replace injectors...they are not very expensive
Old oil within the realm of usability is not going to be toxic/acidic so changing it will be one of those warm/fuzzy things.
Agree on the tire pumping. Consider coarse screen like hardware cloth over the air intake and up the exhaust pipe.
Agree on the tire pumping. Consider coarse screen like hardware cloth over the air intake and up the exhaust pipe.
I would change it now simply so in the spring you just put a battery in it and go, no need to worry about changing the oil then. Is the car being stored indoors or out?
I literally just leave mine in the garage like I was parking it for the night however in the depths of winter when its -25C I'll throw insurance on it and drive it while the streets are dry.
I literally just leave mine in the garage like I was parking it for the night however in the depths of winter when its -25C I'll throw insurance on it and drive it while the streets are dry.
No need to change oil that's close to new and no need to change it every 3K either.
Fill the tank with fuel, drive it straight into the garage, shut it down and then leave it be. Some sort of battery tender/maintainer would be a better use of you money than an oil change.
In the spring, start her up and drive.
I've stored cars in this way for years with never a problem.
Fill the tank with fuel, drive it straight into the garage, shut it down and then leave it be. Some sort of battery tender/maintainer would be a better use of you money than an oil change.
In the spring, start her up and drive.
I've stored cars in this way for years with never a problem.
I have opened up enough small motors to realize that when real dirty oil is left in the sump over the winter there is a percentage of contaminants or sludge that sticks to the bottom of the oil pan. So on my 2013 Mustang GT I change it before storage then take it for a 10 mile ride before storage. Unless the oil has less then 2,000 miles then I won't change it out dumping 8 quarts of synthetic oil with so few miles is just a waste of $
IO store my Gen Coupe every winter.
If the battery is an AGM I would just disconnect it as it will hold the charge over the winter. If it has caps you can remove and is a flooded battery I would give it a boost every 2 months. If you get a maintainer get one that is smart enough to reduce the charge so as not to cook the battery.
If you are going to change the oil use whatever you would use when driving it.
If the battery is an AGM I would just disconnect it as it will hold the charge over the winter. If it has caps you can remove and is a flooded battery I would give it a boost every 2 months. If you get a maintainer get one that is smart enough to reduce the charge so as not to cook the battery.
If you are going to change the oil use whatever you would use when driving it.
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